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living_4kicks

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    North Idaho
  • Cars
    84' 720, 86' 720, 65' Volvo pv122, 06' Chrysler 300c, 13 GMC 6.0L
  • Interests
    Trucks, horses, hunting, fishing, and bird dogs
  • Occupation
    Soil Conservationist NRCS

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  1. So have another small issue. Got spark turned truck over and it wasn't running good. Pulled the plugs and #1 intake and exshaut spark plug was broke. The ground rod was broke off. Any ideas as to why or how it could have happened.
  2. Found the problem, Both coils are firing now. The terminal block from the distributor to the coils had a bad wire. Ran a new one both coils are working now. Thanks for the help all
  3. No, I have a wire going from the negative coil post to the negative side of the battery. This is the only way that coil has power. My problem is not consistent. So that tells me grounding issues. I know it doesn't make since. Let's back up and make sure I have the right wires going to the right place. White with blue strip is the negative and brown is the positive on the intake coil.
  4. Yeah, I swapped the fuse. No. I ran a wire from the battery to the ground on the coil.
  5. Fuse is good. I had to run a ground wire from the intake coil to the battery to get power to that coil.
  6. I was driving to work felt the truck lack then was running rough. Got home it would run would just be rough. As it was at idle I put a timing gun on it just to see where things weren't firing. Both coils were sending spark all four plugs were getting spark on the exshaut side, none were getting spark on the ignition side. I then took the cap off, put a older cap(that still worked) on. Made sure the firing order and wires didn't get crossed then the truck wouldn't start at all. Switch the caps back, making sure to keep all wires the same. Decided it was the cap I could switch intake and exshaut. Then the intake would fire and exshaut wouldn't. Well that didn't work. Truck still won't run. Tested spark and one. Coil stopped sending spark. Put a multimeter on and didn't have power to intake, but not getting a full 12V to the exshaut. Not really sure where to go from there. I don't know where the relay is. Could it be a ground issue. Thought?
  7. I rebuilt mine. Ran better than before, but still had problems with idle, burning rich, and delay acceleration. So I put on a weber. Runs better than new and is simple to do. Took less than a hour to do. Just a idea
  8. Well finally got heat in the shop and was able to fix my truck. 1) put the battery on a charger for a couple hours. 2) checked compression, 100-130psi. 3) turned truck over and it ran rough, got it running steady by feathering the gas. 4) when the truck was at normal temp noticed that the choke wasn't working. 5) turned the truck off, left the key on and had no power to the choke. replaced fuse and the wire. 6) Turned truck back on, let it run until normal temp and choke was fully open. 7) turned idle down until it was normaly Drove it around and didn't have any problems. Left it running for half hour, turned it off sit for hour or so, started it again and everything seems to be going good.
  9. Were you able to fix your truck? I have a similar problem on my 84.
  10. living_4kicks

    My 720

    Bought this truck from a kid after my 86 broke down. I am having problems with it though. Ran good for a while then changed plugs wires distributor and put on a Weber carb. Ran okay had a high idle, that I couldn't get to slow down. One day it died, I haven't been able to get it to run since. It turns over sounds like it's only hitting on one or two cylinders. When I get heat in my shop I will do a compression test. Anyone else have any ideas?
  11. I am going to put a Weber on my truck. Just wondering if you all could give me a heads up on kind of hiccups I can look forward too. I have worked on a couple edelbrock carbs in old Chevys and that's about it.
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