cl72wagon

Here is what I did, no welding at all. Mazda motors are hard to find in a junk yard. I looked for a while and had no luck. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68033-finally-found-a-510-2-door-1972/page-2

I plugged it in to make sure it was at its home position

Here is what I did.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68033-finally-found-a-510-2-door-1972/page-2

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5631157853.html Mine 1972 510 wagon

thanks Carter, yeah by the time i got done with it yesterday it wasn't raining anymore...... but i am sure i wont have to wait to much longer for that to happen again.

Well i got the mazda 626 wiper motor in. This is the motor I bought, its from an 87 626, went with a re-man cause i couldn't find one in a junk yard. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/431467/03292.oap?year=1987&make=Mazda&model=626&vi=1189751&ck=Search_wiper+motor_1189751_3684&keyword=wiper+motor I followed the Dime Quarterly how to for the most part. Where i did it different is the arm that goes on the motor. Doing it the way i did there is no welding, which is nice because i don't have a welder. in all I think this install took less than an hour. New motor below, This one faces the opposite direction as the stock wiper motor,which is nice cause it leaves a little more room. Old motor So to modify the mounting bracket I mounted it to the motor with one bolt, so I could see how much i needed to slot the other holes... Using the top single bolts centers the motor in the bracket pretty good. I also had to space it out from the motor, i used a nut to give extra clearance. The mazda motor has smaller bolts for mounting it to the bracket. They are M5s not M6s. Even with the nut as a spacer its close to hitting the motor here is how it looks fully mounted to the stock plate with the slotted holes I followed the dime's how to for the wiring, sorry no picks. Basically pull the wires out of the stock connector, be careful doing this because the plastic is brittle. I just used a small screw driver to do this. And pull the wires out of the mazda connector. Now follow the wiring diagram to put the wires from the mazda motor into the stock connector. So now here is where I went my route instead of the way they did it on Dime Quarterly. The stock arm on the stock motor needs to be taken off the motor. Now you need to modify the Mazda motor shaft to accept the stock 510 arm. I used my dremmel tool with a small sanding drum on it. Don't grind down the shaft to close to the motor, you want to make sure the arm will bottom out so it can be tightened up with the nut. And when you mount your arm make sure it points to the driver side of the car. So before grinding flats on it make sure you run the motor to make sure it stops at its home position, this doesn't need to be perfect because you can make up any errors when you put your windshield wiper arms back on. . so here it is mounted in place, i must say that this mod was super easy and is completely worth it. The video shows both speeds, but by this time my battery was getting a little low, so the fast speed doesnt look all that fast.... I have some power drains that i have to track down, so it doesn't take long for the battery to start draining...... Now the motor looks like its been in the car for a while, the coating on it sucks. I took it out of the box and it was all scratched up. I was going to re paint it but i am not concerned with how it looks at this point. I will clean it up when i get around to painting the car. Now onto the video.... http://vid990.photobucket.com/albums/af22/c74nova/1972%20510%202%20Door/20160129_151507_zpsqoc5apq1.mp4 .

Good to know thanks man.

You will have a PM soon.

Thanks, yeah i agree on the sun roof, not a big fan of it myself.

Well i got some more done this weekend, got the BMW Ellipsoid headlights in. Followed this how to.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/32726-yet-another-bmw-ellipsoid-intall/ The first side took a lot of time, second side didn't take near as much time. One more thing off the list, I think next weekend i will put in my DZ start in that I never got around to putting in my wagon. The ignition from the 2 door will end up in the wagon so it can actually be started with a key and not a screw driver. I will also be tackling the mazda 626 wiper motor upgrade.......

All the fuel leaks are fixed, the bottom cushion of the back seat has lost its fuel smell which is what i was hoping for. So now i don't have to replace it unless i want something newer and better, but lets face it I will never sit in the back seat. So without the seat back you could see into the trunk, so this is what i did to fix it. 1st Started with a sheet of masonite,I think that is what its called, basically peg board without the holes. Got all of my supplies for this at lowes, for a little less than 50 bucks. 2nd Multi purpose insulation 1 inch thick by 16" x 48" . I used 2 inch thick and it was a bit a of pain in the ass to get it in place. 3rd Spray on adhesive for the insulation 4th Tite Seal window flashing, 4inch by 33 foot roll. Ok started with cardboard template, then used it for the contours for the left and right side. here you can see how it fits up under the original seat back hooks, this took some trimming to get right but it fits nicely. I did not take the time to make it look nice, because it wont be seen after the seats in. i cut this notch so i could access the seat belt bolts easier, you can see that someone has the seat belt bolted in, for someone to sit in the middle of the seat. That will be put back to its stock location. So i used the Tite Seal on the interior side of the board, this may be a bit over kill but I wanted to cut down as much noise from the trunk as possible. After the Tite seal was in place i went over it with the heat gun for a bit and used cardboard to make sure it was seated well and wouldn't peal off, it was a bit cold in the garage and it didn't seem to want to stick very well. But after the heat gun and applying pressure with the cardboard it seem to stay on pretty well. The muffler on this car hits a certain pitch around 3000 RPM that was driving me nuts which is the reason I did this.... Finished product, I have a couple of extra screw holes where i missed the supports but again it will be covered up. So for a couple of hours and fifty bucks, it is definitely worth the time and money. I can talk to the person riding with me without have to yell anymore. I may also be able to here my radio again too.

Yes those leaks are fixed no more gas odor from there.....all my other connections are leaking though.... That will be fixed this weekend though.

Not sure, from what I heard someone backed into the quarter panel..... they fixed that and went for the flat black look on the drivers side of the car..... I am not a fan of it but it will have to do for now. Nothing wrong with having 2 cars, I just don't have time for working on 2. I would rather focus on the 2 door.

I think you are right about the clamps, not to mention they are not the good fuel injection clamps. I will be replacing the clamps and possibly the hose.

So upon further investigation I have more gas leaks....... What under the seat looks like...... and now the bottom of the seat, not sure if i can salvage the seat or not. Might be able to just cut the gas soaked foam out...... And it wouldn't be complete without a gas leak under the car..... Gas is now drained, but i am done with the fumes for today.....