noramost

It’s not my place being new to this site but I was wondering if we should have a new member category for guys like Doctor510 and I who spent our adult careers devoted to Datsuns and he never gives a wrong answer. My résumé goes like this
1. In high school I worked 3 years, 60 hours a week at my dad’s brand new Union 76 station, I rebuilt my first engine and automatic at 15
2. I put myself through 2 years of community collage working at various gas stations
3. I started working for Datsun in 1969 and attended 6 factory training schools and worked 9 years at all the Datsun dealers in the Valley of the Sun, I worked my 10th year for Nissan
4. I rented one bay and started Japanese Auto Works with $250 in 1979
5. I bought my 9 bay building in 1992 and our average sales where $75,000 a month and our car count was 12 cars a day. I owned $350,000 worth of equipment including 4 exhaust analyzers, a chassis dyno and 6 racks
6. I kept a 5% training budget and we attended classes every year all over the country like SEMA, CARS, ASA Conventions and many others.
7. The industry warranty standard was 1.5%, I kept mime at .003% so I made a few good decisions along the way
8. I sold my business, building and equipment with everything paid for in 2006 for 1.3 million and retired
9. My auto repair career lasted from 1965-2006  41 years but it feels like more
With my experience I promise to give the rite answer at least 5% of the time. Maybe we could be called Hard Members or since we are old Soft Members. Let’s exclude Suck My Member but maybe Gold Member

open up your mixture screw on the carb to 1.5 and your HC will drop, you are running to lean. I am an emission guy and own my own Sun 5 gas analyzer

This should work quite well

Many places hired translators that could speak asshole and translate it into much kinder way of saying” Please Give Me Your Money” they called them Service Writers, they acted as go-betweens with your mechanic and you. A book I found useful was The E-Myth by Michael Gerber to become an entrepreneur as a technician, I read it and lived happily ever-after.

The old 12 piston 6 cylinder seems more effective. Simpler too.

Your shop looks exciting, since you are old school have you ever considered building anything using a LD28? I hear with twin turbos it will produce 1100HP and if you ever get to see inside one you will get to see what the good stuff looks like. I would shim the injectors to their maximum brake point and achieve 48MPG so it's possible to experience more G's with more MPG

If you adjust your BCDD valve properly, it will sync RPM and shifts for you, thank you Nissan

I agree, exceptional drivers never ware out clutches or brakes but there where only 3 of us in Phoenix so I gave you average life from my experience over a 50 year career of replacing consumables on Japanese cars. For brakes the average life was 32k on the front and double that on the rear but not for you, that would not be true.

Just remembered, some people drive around with their hand resting on the shift stick in 2nd until it's time to shift to 3rd. They would ware out the 2nd gear fork and collar and develop a rattle/vibration from inside the trans and eventually it would pop out on 2nd because the ware didn't allow it to go all the way into gear so don't do that.

The adjustment for that is the volume control on the radio, reach down and turn it clockwise. I had noisy std transmissions that sounded like a siren on a police car, I added a tube of BG-Trans conditioner, I went for a test drive and it was like the siren was going in the opposite direction until the noise dissapeared. It's not often cars heal up but it's nice when they do, couldn't hurt to add some but we used to cure a noise like yours whacking the exhaust heat-shields with our Datsunhammer  

The average life was 80k, for the younger drivers 60k as for me my D21 I'm pushing 200k on the original p-plate but I freshened up the disk and TOB twice when the clutch started to engage 1" off the floor instead of 1/2 way up which told me the disk was getting thin, because it was a work truck with many different drivers.

Great chat- I don’t know if this is useful information but for the 71-WPL510 I built in the 80’s I installed a Z24. I had to weld a 1.5” tube through the pan for the drag-link to go through and I heard the best JATCO at the time was in the ZX-Turbo so I use one. I don’t remember why but I sent the converters to Hugh’s Converters and they cut the converters at the weld on a lathe and used the Z24 on the engine side and the L28 on the trans side and welded up the seam. I also had them give me a 3 grand stall speed which is perfect for a long stroke but overheats in the VG’s

Running without an oil pan is safer than scratching your bearings with any flush method

I know auto trans re-builders that run straight ATF others that add a qt of marvel mystery oil but those guys are smarter than me. I use good old Valvoline 10/30 with a pt of BG-MOA that doubles the ratings of the oil and a factory oil filter and change it every 3,750

I’m not brave enough to use a crankcase flush, if you think about it the normal accumulation of crud in your crankcase can only add 5 degrees of engine heat and does no harm if left alone. If you add a solvent, break it loose pump it through your pump and bearings scratching everything along the way and try to clog your 1/8th inch oil feed hole to your rocker with the brew how much good have you done. Scratched bearings cause internal oil leaks and the oil leaks out of the journal and falls back into the pan instead of building pressure all the way to the rockers. The can of flush should say “Flush Your Crankcase and Reduce Your OP By Half, Ha, Ha”

Tips - I guess you know about the center rocker arm head bolt that is tapered and different than the rest and the factory had this separate red o-ring that inserted into the oil feed hole block to head = good stuff. The machine shop ABC used was crappy and did a rough mill on the head so we had to fill the groves with 3 coats of aluminum paint.