noramost

There is no way I am as smart as Mike, he knows 2/3rds of everything Datsun, I know 1/3rd and some of what we know overlaps, for instance they teased us by sprinkling out the good stuff over the years and is was up to us to know this and combine it in a better way, it’s just that we learned it in different ways. I worked on 3 cars a day 200 days a year for 41 years which equals many cars. I also worked 10 years at the Datsun Dealers with 15 mechanics that saw 45 cars a day which equals even more and learned a thing or two. I realize now color coding our member into good better best is an unreasonable request. I came from an environment where we charged $3 a minute for our time and was considered incompetent to charge to go down the wrong path. Now I realize our time has no value and it is OK to send someone 20 hours down the wrong path. I now realize all opinions can be of value, it’s like the 18 wheeler that got stuck under the underpass and after working several hours one of the tow truck drivers brought his 11 year old son with him to work that day suggested they let the air out of the tires. Or the first time a 75Z was towed into ABC Datsun not running, they already sent our best tech to EFI school, we where all dreading that day, well he brought a brand new Z from the lot and started swapping parts. Three days later the parts runner walked by and said “Maybe it’s your distributor rotor” it was. The 1st manuals we used where not translated into English only the illustration had English subtitles and used odd words like anti-clockwise and bonnet and the specifications where not translated yet so I couldn’t read up allot. I tended to remember the odd things like 240Z wheel bearings torque to 80lbs but 280Z’s do not or use regular 98.5 octane or higher. I remember the 80/20 rule that states 80% of the problems are mechanical not electronic. I remember an O2 sensor produces 1-19 volts because 0 & 20 would be stupid because there is only 19% O2 on this planet. I remember a turbo needs 10lbs more fuel pressure. I don’t know my Datsun numbers like Mike, we just used the head number to determine how much has been milled of the head with the amount of material under the number, being in the head gasket capital of the world so we wouldn’t waste your money pulling the head off when it was already milled over the limit. Sorry for the self promotion I was only trying to list my credentials; I was only thinking how can we better help each other, color me bad.

I guess what I am saying is I did a lot of research in my automotive career and I usually sought the consul of the most learned person I could find on the subject. I have seen many of the answers to peoples questions sending people down the wrong path on this site. I guess I’m saying sometimes I would rather seek an answer to a medical question from a doctor rather than from a patient but we have no way to tell the difference

It’s not my place being new to this site but I was wondering if we should have a new member category for guys like Doctor510 and I who spent our adult careers devoted to Datsuns and he never gives a wrong answer. My résumé goes like this 1. In high school I worked 3 years, 60 hours a week at my dad’s brand new Union 76 station, I rebuilt my first engine and automatic at 15 2. I put myself through 2 years of community collage working at various gas stations 3. I started working for Datsun in 1969 and attended 6 factory training schools and worked 9 years at all the Datsun dealers in the Valley of the Sun, I worked my 10th year for Nissan 4. I rented one bay and started Japanese Auto Works with $250 in 1979 5. I bought my 9 bay building in 1992 and our average sales where $75,000 a month and our car count was 12 cars a day. I owned $350,000 worth of equipment including 4 exhaust analyzers, a chassis dyno and 6 racks 6. I kept a 5% training budget and we attended classes every year all over the country like SEMA, CARS, ASA Conventions and many others. 7. The industry warranty standard was 1.5%, I kept mime at .003% so I made a few good decisions along the way 8. I sold my business, building and equipment with everything paid for in 2006 for 1.3 million and retired 9. My auto repair career lasted from 1965-2006 41 years but it feels like more With my experience I promise to give the rite answer at least 5% of the time. Maybe we could be called Hard Members or since we are old Soft Members. Let’s exclude Suck My Member but maybe Gold Member

i agree, you should not take the advice from a guy that made his living for 50 years diagnosing overheating problems on Japanese Cars in the hottest town in the country

not running rich with a .25 CO, it is running lean at idle only; causing HC too go high @900. Open the mixture screw 1/2 turn to 1.5 CO and report back if HC drops enough to pass, if not give me new reading might have second issue. I speak fluent HC & CO, even Lambda and Air Fuel Ratio

open up your mixture screw on the carb to 1.5 and your HC will drop, you are running to lean. I am an emission guy and own my own Sun 5 gas analyzer

I switched to 5/30 in my non-diesel cars with a pt of BG-MOA for insurance. It probably is not good logic but I figured if the million $ Indy cars use it-it might be good enough for me, my OP seems to be the same.

You should consider building your belly pan out of wood living on an island and all, with raising sea levels you might need the buoyancy. But seriously fans and shrouds are low speed solutions, above 30 air speed cools and your fan clutch cycles because of heat but is not necessary at highway speeds. I would suspect your radiator is partially plugged. We used to flush @ 80k and re-core @160k with a larger core because old engines run hotter. I used to use the metal edge off a whipper insert and push it in one of the 6 tubes you can see from the radiator cap hole. It plugs in the bottom 4" of the core and you can't see it but the steel edge will feel the restriction and when you pull it back out the white milky crud comes up with it. You can also use a temp gun and check for cold spots in the core or wait for 20 below, that aught to do it.

in Phoenix if you remove the t-stat you can overheat because the water speed from the pump is increased and the heat exchanger does not have enough time to do it's job but you are rite, 5W oil cools better than 10/30 because it travels through the oil coolers faster, must be one of those 2 and 2 equals 5 things. I'm making my snow shield for my 510 out of 1/8 aluminum, i still have the stock one but I want a bigger shinier one with a cut-out for the KA24DE drain plug

Pull your drive line and move your u joints by hand you will get a better feel. The dust collar on the tail-shaft can come loose and rub on the yoke, it's OK if it disappears

Cooling tips for Phoenix when it gets up to 130 1. Seal between radiator support and hood 2. Fan shroud and snow shield mandatory 3. Extra blade on fan 4. Foam seals between condenser and radiator all around 5. Sometimes a 195 t-stat would keep the coolant in the radiator longer than a 180 and cool better 6. Electric fans seem to not be sufficient at a 5-way intersection waiting for a train 7. The faster you go the hotter it gets means radiator plugged, happens every 80k, or too small 8. Toyota offered silicone to rebuild fan clutches so added 1 tube to Datsun fan clutch. 9. Copper radiators cool better 10. Parked the Datsun and drove the Ford that day Has anyone tried the waterless coolant yet, seems like the answer

Good stuff so true that it cools better with it, also called the snow shield

Everything under the hood should bolt on, you will have to fabricate under the dash. I find it easier to use the D21 heater box with the evap and blower with stock controls to the new stuff but it will have to be figured out. D21 has a nice firewall boot to keep the engine heat out, get it also if you can

This should work quite well

That is why we called them Gluteus Maxims