Johnboyee

I was also toying with the idea of just running dual 1 1/2 all the way

82 z22 King can, got weber running nice thanks guys for input, now onto next issue, previous owner ran an 1 1/2 ID straight pipe from the factory 2 to 1 collector and exited it out the vehicle infront of rear wheel, sounds like total crap and loud, truck does have air ride suspension so fram lays on the ground, I read the factory header was sufficient so sticking with that, was gonna run 2 1/4 ID pipe from factory collector, but problem I'm having is the pipe will hang lower than frame by way to much until after transmission. Since the piping at the collector is two 1 1/2 ID tubes, can I run two 1 1/2 tubes from the collector to past the transmission crossmember then turn it into one 2 1/4 pipe then resonator? I know it doesn't sound like much but every 1/2 inch of clearance helps and I believe this would give me the most clearance available as long as it doesn't inhibit performance. I am open to any other ideas with exhaust to gain maximum ground clearance!

Middle man, yea my brake booster vacuum line is the last suspect on vac lines, but I also have one to transmission since it's an automatic, the brakes where redone before I purchased the truck, but it is original booster too, plus it's has cruise control which adds extra crap, might end up removing that.

Ok... New carb 32/36 DGEV, vacuum delete has been done, yes vacuum advance is connected to dizzy, everything else except vacuum to brake booster is capped off, checked base adapter plates by spraying carb cleaner with no change in rpm. According to paper work I was adjusting slow idle screw and not mixture screw. Choke is connected to stock blue choke wire

Charlie69, I haven't bought any parts I didn't need, I swapped motors in this truck since original was locked up! Rhino13, that's exactly the way I was thinking you meant, and I'm running mine the same way for now, one day I'll make a new bracket myself that holds the cable with less angle of attack on it, but now I'm having idle issues, it won't idle, I checked for vacuum leaks around base and any other possibilities, but haven't found any, I've even adjusted the idle screw in both directions in and out about 3-4 turns with very little effect, right now I have sdjusted slight tension on throttle cable to keep it running at idle, time to do more research !

I got the factory mount working, needs a little tweaking but it works, I like the return spring idea. I realized after the fact (I cut the lead end off cable) that I could use factory linkage. It's running but won't idle and runs rough, already replaced plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, wires, both coils still have spark, I read either they work or they don't do they should be ok, should i get a new distributor? Or what other electrical problems might I look for? I have the E choke hooked up the the factory blue wire that went to factory carb, is this correct? After running it for a bit the choke seemed quite hot to the touch.

Element103, I'll check out the part number when I get home! Rhino13, I thought about that but wasn't sure about only having one but hold it on, pics would be great

Yes sir, on stock carb it does, but I can't use factory cable holder due to it being to tall and hitting part of the carb body

first off, I have used the search function!! Didn't help with what I'm having trouble with, does anybody have and good pics of an 82 with a weber installed, the problem I'm having is with the throttle cable connecting it to the carb, I have the mount on the head side of the carb but it won't open throttle to wide open! Just lookin for some good pics of setups or any other useful info!