Randalla

Making good progress on my 76 710 wagon but have run into a challenge finding front strut inserts. I've read the threads here about that, but wondered if anyone more recently has had luck sourcing them or something else other than coil-overs that might fit/work. Mike, I believe you indicated you went with COs.

Recently I lost the fuel and temperature readings on my 1972 240Z simultaneously and am wondering if there is a connection. I know on Roadsters there is a step-down voltage regulator that controls both functions, but I'm not sure if there is any relationship between the two on an early Z. Checked the connections at the fuel tank and the temperature sensor and they seem secure. Thoughts?

Yupp, that's what I ended up doing rather than waste more hours trying to find one.

My transmission is a F4W63L

I'm in the process of replacing front and rear seals on the 4-speed transmission in my 1976 710. I can't seem to find the gasket for the front cover and wonder if that gasket is common on all L20B manual transmissions (which I would expect). Anybody know if the part number is the same? Thanks!

Pulled the speedo driver out today, and it is a red 20 tooth version. I'm assuming I'll need one with less teeth to get a higher reading on my speedo.

My 620 has a stock 5-speed manual transmission and differential. I'm running 225/50/17 wheels and tires, which has my speedometer under reporting by as much as 20 mph??? I have not yanked the current speedo driver out to see which one I have, but I'm wondering, for those of you running oversized Titan wheels/tires, which one you have swapped in and how accurate it is.

Thank you for the education Mike. I can definitely vouch for the induction noise of the Weber on my 620, as well as what seems like inferior mileage to the stock carb. I'm stripping most of the emission hardware off the 710, so those related benefits are less important to me here in AZ. Leaning towards Mary Anne at this point😁. Thanks again for the thorough explanation.

Mike, when you say the best is the stock carb, what specifically makes it a better choice than a 32/36 Weber? Of course the OEM carb was engineered for the engine, but from a real world performance standpoint what makes it better? I've just been through this exercise with my L18 equipped 620 that I installed a new 32/36 Weber carb on.

Finally getting around to working on my 76 Datsun 710 wagon with L20B. My original Hitachi carb is toast and I've no interest in rebuilding it. Wondering what some of you with 610 or 710s are running on your motors. As I see it, my options are fairly limited if using the stock intake (Hitachi clone, used Hitachi OEM, clone Weber 32/36 or genuine Weber 32/36). I'm interested in any real world performance and reliability information you're willing to share, as well as any mods you had to do to mate it with the stock manifold. Thanks!

Wondering if anyone is selling the complete upper control arms with new bushings ball joints for a 620. When I search online I find some but as soon as I plug in model and year (1977) they6 say it will not fit. Would prefer to replace the whole units rather than individual components.

Wondering if anyone is selling the complete upper control arms with new bushings ball joints for a 620. When I search online I find some but as soon as I plug in model and year (1977) they6 say it will not fit. Would prefer to replace the whole units rather than individual components.

Guess I better keep looking😁. My 7 were the tie rod ends (4), Center link (2), idler arm (1).

In the process of rebuilding my steering and front suspension. Curious to know what the thread pitch is on the grease fittings, and how many there are. I quickly counted 7, but wondering if I may have missed a few.