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SolidZ24x4

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  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Cars
    1985 nissan 720 Z24 4x4, 1990 Audi 90 quattro 20v

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  1. Mine didnt leak anything before I got to it, but now there is a little stain of sadness whereever she is parked. I did check though and tightened up a few valve cover screws, hopefully it will dry up soon.
  2. I've changed the rest of them, so might as well go for the whole enchilada and replace the oil-pan gasket too; I'm in desperate need of closure and it comes in the form of a rectangular cork gasket and some RTV sealant. Immediately after this bright idea I referenced my haines, and my fantasy of closure was deftly squashed by the three or more paragraphs explaining how to hoist the engine, drop the cross member, brace the differential, block out the engine with wood blocks, and everything short of rocket surgery to get the space needed for said closure. I've always felt that closure is far more valuable than competence, or tedious rule-following, so I'm crowdsourcing suggestions... Can this be done without an engine hoist? Thanks
  3. And I definitely did put the main seal on just a little too tight...
  4. Money. Don't listen to any chud who tells you "its okay, its not pressure fitted, you can get it with a hammer." But I regress, I should have seen it coming; I mean even the words, 'harmonic-balancer' and 'hammer' definitely don't go together. Maybe less Red-Bull next time... Something useful: The harmonic-balancer off a 20b will work on the 24z. I would post a pic, but you all know what harmonic balance looks like, right? Thanks for the help tho.
  5. Would it be possible to run the engine for a few seconds without any of the belts hooked up? Ignition should be covered by the battery, but w/o water pressure would it be okay for short duration? I'm inclined to think its the pulley, I really wasn't nice to that thing... This is where I'm going to start, will keep you posted thanks.
  6. After much trial, error, revision, and tedious instruction following, I've got my z24 running again after replacing the head gasket and timing cover gasket. Unfortunately, there is a vague rubbing sound coming from the front of the engine. I am inclined to say it's the pulley; in lieu of a puller, I beat the thing with a hammer and pried with a small bar to get the pulls off. It can be seen wobbling a bit. Also I'm wondering if maybe I pushed the main seal too hard against the oil slinger? Has anybody else had this problem? I want to try and run the thing without any belts hooked up, or even w/o the pulley to see if the noise persists. Thanks for any suggestions.
  7. theres a weird whine after i got it started up, first i thought it was an uneven belt, or the fan, but its pretty loud. I'm thinking the cam is off by a tooth or three. If theres a problem to be found in this project; ill find it.
  8. is that the beginning or the top of the lobe?
  9. Okay, I was setting the oil spindle to the exhaust stroke. Flipped it around and bingo. Really appreciate your help!!!
  10. How do I determine if the TDC is exhaust or compression stroke? It is possible I set that on the exhaust stroke...
  11. Perhaps the spindle is one notch too far ccw?
  12. Definitely have spark to the dist. Is bolted down well, all wires connected. I've checked the oil spindle a bunch,
  13. got it put back together, but cant get her to start. I have the oil spindle exactly as pictured, ​exactly, but to no avail. it seems as there's no spark. I'm pretty sure you cant put the distributor cap on backwards... My next move is to rent a timing gun and see if theres anything goin to plug I1. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!! thanks​
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