907Ratsun

I havent decided on the turbo and mani yet. It'll probably take me a bit to get to that point. I've started researching though. Lots of good kits out there. I hear a lot about manifolds cracking and I want to avoid that as best I can.

My overall goal for this buid, is to get 300 - 350 HP with a solid setup. I dont plan on "Drifting" the truck. My goal for this build is the following: A) Be able to stop B) Get down to the 11s in the 1/4 C) Get to 125 out of the gate D) Build up a reliable KA-T I know that after I do the engine reinforcements: Block: Forged Pistons ( 9:1, or 8.8:1) 5 - $600 CP Arias Weisenec Forged Rods 2 - $300 (6 - $800 for Piston and rod kit on Ebay) Eagle Manley Brian Crower CP (Possibly balanced crank) Oil Pump Timing kit Cometic Gasket upper and lower Swab the Deck, jk. Block cleanup at the machinest Hone the components, and sleeves Assembly New valve springs and retainers (not double) Steel valvle stems DW 550cc injectors ARP bolts Port, Polish (Assembly) Probably $1200 - $2000 at the Machinist (Everything is mor expensive in Alaska) Z32 MAF and the Turbo kit. New wire harness ( mine was junk ) Chip + Dyno Not to mention the Tranny rebuild It's gonna be awhile before I get rolling. But the point is once the engine is running nice, I should be able to hit my goal no problem. Also, if the engine proves to be way to much for the truck, Ill throw it in a SChassis if one comes my way for the right price. My whole budget is $7000. So far, things are looking pretty good. Also, My L16 is running solid for now, so once the disc brake upgrade is done, I should still be able to drive all next summer again until the KA is done. Then I'll drop the KA in, and break it in before I do the turbo kit. Fortunately, we get dividends every year here, and I dont mind spending mine on my Datsun. It pays to live in an igloo

To get the Brake lines off, I bought a brake line wrench set (flange wrenches), and it helped to get the brake lines off the Master Cylinder. The passenger side got rounded off where the rubber hose connects to the hard brake line, so I'm going to go to Alaska Rubber and have them make me a new Hard Brake line for the passenger side. They should be able to cut it to length, and put the rigth connectors on for far less $$$ than ordering a replacement line.

So just as a disclaimer. I usually write this stuff up after a few beers, so you should take everything at sh** face value for at least 24 hours after I post so I can clarify any shinanigans I may have wrote that day.

Im procuring the rest of the parts I need to finish the job. Today, I got the Beebani brackets in. Tomorrow, the Master Cylinder will finally be here. One downside to living so far north is it takes forever to get stuff in. Im going to order the break lines and rotors today. It looks like the 300zx calipers have the same bolt spacing as the brackets so I'm going to try them on first. Beebani says use harbody calipers, but if the N/A 300zx calipers dont fit for whatever reason, Ill just sell them.

Here's the head off the block, I can see some wear on the tops of the cylinders, but I'm not sure what caused it.

I'm going to do the restore the front suspension before I finish the break upgrade Passenger side torsion bar Driver/Passenger Tension rods Center Link needs to be flipped for the swap (new one on the way) New bushings (on the way)

Here's the front hubs off... As you can tell, I have some cleaning up to do under here... and I had to cut the break lines, they do not want to come out...

Here's the stock mc...

My early model 280zx mc on the way ( notice the verticle fittings )

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How did you do that? ^^ Here's some more work ;) I got the head off of the block, head looks nice, but some wear on the tops of the sleeves of the block. That'll be for the machinest to decide. My goal: Rebuild this ka to stockish specs, but with the reinforced forged internals. I want to keep the compression slightly lower than stock. I'll post picturea of the ka work soon. For now, progress on tearing down the front end...