Oyeller720

Thank u guys for the advice and fast response im headed over to do this in am and only got this weekend . So thanks to the ratsun community much appreciated.

Hahaha yeah I know for a fact that cross member is tweaked. But I might unbolt the axels and drop everything. Everything else is all dropped and removed but didn't know if the axels and diff. Needed to be marked or anything special

There outta way thou. Only thing directly under is the front differental and front axels. But u could be right. Iv never messed with torsion bar's so maybe ill give it a go.

I'm getting ready to drop the transmission to change the clutch and was wondering if it would be easier to try and monuver it to get it past the front differental. I removed the drive lines, exhaust , skid plate and etc. But the tranny would drop straight down if i removed the front crossmember plus the front differental and disconnect the front axels. So my question is. How hard is it to remove all that or is it even worth it when i can monuver it around. I have replaced tranny b4 and kinda botch to do. I have a 86 Nissan 720 kc 4x4 z24

Sorry for the long awaited reply, but I put it in 4th and e brake and was able to get the pedal almost all the way before it stalled. I didn't think the clutch pedal height would cause that rpm spike right? also I looked under it and no oil on ground or any around the bell housing? From looks of it no matter what I'm going to have to pull tranny I'm thinking.

I wemt on drive today with 86 720 z24 and everything was okay then i sropped amd accelrated and my rpms would jump to 3000-4000 but truck speed 25mph And i shift and rpms come down and speed pick up then on steady speed the. Rpms jump and i slow down a bit so on and so fourth I heard clutch slip but no smell and does it without shifting. And possibly the clutch pedal height and fuel pump Prior to all this it ran good no sign of slipping or anything and i didnt drive for 4 months. in that time i changed bed and replaced front cv and ball joint also added straight pipe but kept original exhaust manifold nada i think would effect performance.

Sorry everyone for that last speed post haha idk. but question is im making tailgate handles on inside of bed shaving the outside but im mixing it up and wanted to know if i could use individual handles,levers,switch etc. on each side just as long as the hatch has the tension. Not good at explaining this but putting pics up today.

See someone said u can measure inside of tire to torsion bar an adjust that way but it's the inside tire that is wearing down. I don't have my book right now but can't u adjust the torsion bar for ride height without screwing up the alignment.cuz I'm looking to raise it but never adjusted torsion bars before

So I need your guys help more opinion, but my right front tire is going through tires like crazy an I don't wanna spend the money on a alignment more a DIY kinda guy an iv been told by old timers, you can do it with either a tape measure or piece of string so wondering what's your guys take on that an how to go about it

Okay so then the 720 2wd will work then.an I have two of them. But I tore it down all the way from the rod sector shaft an the worm gear but didn't realize how many balls were it an didn't mark the relation on the rod.. Pretty much I get it assembled everytime an it will turn all the way one way an stop back at center an be stuck. Haha But alright I'll go for the 2wd thank you for helping out.

I have a 86 Nissan 720 4x4 kc stock with the power steering.I recently tried dismantaling the gear box an was success full but I'm not quite understanding the whole WORMGEAR AN BALLNUT thing.. My ball nut guides were bent preventing the bearings from moving the worm gear around an I got all back together but something just seems off.. I will try to post pics but it's $200-$300 for a new one an bend Oregon has nothing for these trucks so is there anything from different year or hell even a yota or anything I can do before buying new one l??