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RandyR

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  • Location
    Indiana
  • Cars
    84 720
  • Interests
    The Bible

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  1. Well the problem with the coolant spewing from the exhaust was indeed the intake manifold gasket. Got a new replacement, put it in and now the only thing flowing out of the exhaust is, well, exhaust. Tip to anyone replacing the head gasket: be careful not to kink or fold the intake gasket. You'll suck a lot of coolant thru the combustion chambers.... a LOT of coolant. I then replaced my chocolate milk with oil.
  2. Yeah, I meant Exhaust 3. Intake gasket to arrive tomorrow afternoon. We'll see. The NGK plugs are also on their way. Gonna limp along on the old ones for now.
  3. I suspected maybe the intake gasket. Tore the intake back off and lo and behold, the gasket was bent down at the #4 intake runner. I hope that's all it is! Hard to believe that much coolant could blow through there, but we'll see. Now to find a parts store that stocks them.
  4. All plugs Cylinders 3 and 4 wet. All plugs in 1 and 2 dry.
  5. Thanks for the reply. Yes and yes. I am quite certain I installed the new intake gasket with great care and tightened the bolts good. The amount of coolant coming through is quite a lot. Not a white cloud - just pure coolant flowing out of the exhaust. It sounds like there is a miss in 1 maybe 2 cylinders. (The cylinders that do fire wouldn't fire with that much coolant flowing through.) I pulled the E3 plug - wet. I could pull more, but maybe when the temp. is down into the 90s.
  6. Well today I replaced my HG on my 84 Z24, because I would occasionally smell coolant at startup, and it would "use" coolant at a very slow rate - otherwise the truck runs OK. Tore down to the HG and noticed no damage anywhere on the gasket, nor any signs of coolant seeping into any cylinders. Reassembled using Victor Reinz HG kit, torquing all bolts to 20; 40; 60 like I should. When I got it all back together, it started OK, but now I have coolant spewing from the exhaust. Can't figure out what I did wrong. Any advice?? This project took me all day today, and it's 102­ and humid out there. No fun,
  7. Just the sound it makes as it first starts up (due to the miss in one cylinder until the coolant is purged out) similar to machine-gun fire. Neighbors surely thinking a drive-by is taking place. No, I'm not interested in modifying the truck in any way (other than the Weber, and already removed all the unnecessary vac lines). Just happy with stock, as long as it's cheaper than aftermarket "improvements", and can still be found. I like to keep things as simple as possible - I believe simplicity results in dependability. If I'm told by someone who knows more than I do, that the manifold is not the weak link in the chain of air flow, I'll take his word for it. The manifold stays, and the money goes to the carb replacement fund. I'm getting old.
  8. Gotcha. I had read your other material on HG replacement, but your advice on the #2 hole on the cam sprocket is a new one I believe. Thanks! HG replacement parts to arrive next week. As a side note - I decided to "go with the flow" (pun intended) and use the stock exhaust manifold back to the cat. I began disassembling what was left of the exhaust, and miraculously I was able to unthread the bolts that held the cat-back exhaust system to the cat! I was pleasantly surprised to learn someone had done the service of busting out the guts of the cat, so it's essentially a free-flowing little box. I then started the truck, which PROMPTLY told me I had better order the cat-back exhaust (including muffler). To be installed as soon as it arrives on Friday.
  9. Mike, is that tool jammed into a Z24? If so, I will have Amazon send me that one asap. That picture says it all. Lesson learned: Never trust the item description on Amazon.
  10. Yup. Been reading all the advice on the forums about the timing chain tensioner springing out. I wouldn't have suspected that would happen, but I'm glad I did some reading before it did! I ordered an Alltrade 648832 tool https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648832-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TVO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468957945&sr=8-2&keywords=timing+chain+tool+nissan but I'm only about 90% confident in it, only because it lists the 1984 Z24 motor as one of its applications. I'm about 85% confident in using the Alltrade 648831 https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468958036&sr=8-1&keywords=timing+chain+tool+nissan although it is for L-motors, and for years up to 1983 ...and about 75% confident I can carve a piece of wood the right size and shape that will sufficiently hold. I suspect that at TDC and the gearbox in neutral, there shouldn't be much natural tendency for the crank to rotate either direction, so just enough friction to keep the spring compressed should do it. (?) I won't die as a result of the chain coming loose, but I don't want the consequences of the chain falling down.
  11. Thanks for the helpful tip about exhaust gas velocity. Hadn't thought of it that way before. So you're saying I should back off on the 6" dual smokestack idea? A co-worker has replaced the entire 2.25" exhaust on his late model Toyota car, and donated his old stuff to me just for scrap metal. I may get out the hacksaw, some clamps and hangers, and spend some time under the 720 to fab my own setup. This can wait until after I successfully change the head gasket, of course. I may also find out if there's any scrap value in my old cat. I am ashamed at how cheap I can be at times.
  12. Thanks for the reply, Mike. Yes, the Weber carb is coming... in its time. From other posts about exhaust and headers, I get the point: Headers won't do for a Z24 what they can do to a small block Chevy. "Keep the manifold". With that in mind, I will cut the CAT. But is there a place I can find pre-bent exhaust pipes that I know will work on my truck? It's hard enough just to find a flanged "cat-back" set for these old trucks. I cannot bend pipe, and the only welder I have is an old Miller Arc welder. I am going to try to get by with as little invested as possible on the pipes, so that I can get that Weber sooner.
  13. I have a 1984 720 KC 4WD with the Z24 motor. Lately I smell a bit of coolant on startup, and I believe my head gasket is seeping into a cylinder when the engine is not running. (Coolant needs topped off every now and then). Also, my exhaust has rusted almost completely off, from the cat flange back (road salt). So I have decided I should replace the head gasket, and replace the exhaust while I'm at it. My question is: Which Pacesetter header will I need, the 70-1112 or the 70-1113? The only difference in the two seems to be that one of the intermediate pipes seems to be a little longer and bent a different way. I live in a free state, so emissions connections are not a concern - I will need to plug the CO2 sensor and/or the EGR holes. (Carb replacement pending - one step at a time on this budget.) Thanks for answering!
  14. I am posting this because I have referred to this forum numerous times and it helped me, so I hope this helps someone else. READ THIS BEFORE BUYING A NEW FUEL PUMP!! I now own 3 working Nissan 720 fuel pumps! Here's why: About 6 months ago, I am driving my '84 720 to work. I barge into a snowdrift and it throws me 180°. Weee what fun. About the time I have to get out and lock in the hubs and get back in, the truck dies - WON'T restart. I have someone from work pull me to the shop. Troubleshooting the problem, we discover it's not pumping fuel (took the larger of the 2 fuel lines apart in the engine compartment (after cleaning out the packed snow). No fuel being pumped there. We test voltage at the fuel pump and it's OK. Assume the fuel pump is bad. Bought a new fuel pump. I kept the connector plug in place and spliced the wires leaving the plug onto the new fuel pump so that in the future I could easily swap out the pump by simply unplugging the connector. $60 later, I'm happy it's running. I stow away the old fuel pump because I'm a hoarder. Fast forward 6 months. I'm driving along and notice the truck sputters occasionally, and often dies - won't restart. It seems to happen on occasion, but getting more and more common. At this point, I keep in the back of my mind this COULD be an intermittent electrical problem. I found a forum that talked about checking the solder connections on the circuit board of the fuel relay (mounted to the right of the glove box). I took it apart, and notice the solder connections are OK. Finally I had my chance - I happened to be at home when the problem was occurring, and I had a few minutes to look at it. When I take the fuel line off in the engine compartment and put the hose into a bottle, no fuel is pumping. So I test voltage where the fuel pump is and I get +12V. OK - the problem HAS to be either clogged fuel filters or another bad fuel pump. Since I ran out of time, and I HAVE to get the truck going again, I order another new fuel pump. This time I also order both filters along with it, because the warranty won't cover the pump unless the filters are also replaced. Another $60 plus $20 worth of filters. The filters come one day before the pump, so I change out the filters (original ones were OLD). Truck starts right up, runs for a few seconds then shuts off and won't restart. I again test the voltage to the pump, and of course, it is OK. Test fuel flow under the hood and again it is NOT flowing fuel. I am confident it is a bad fuel pump. Next day the fuel pump comes. I put it in and the truck fires up, runs for a few seconds then shuts off. Won't restart. I ONCE MORE test the voltage at the fuel pump. THIS TIME - NO VOLTAGE!! When I jiggled the wires where the plug connector is at the fuel pump, I can get the power to come on-and-off. Ah that stupid little plug connector! Third fuel pump, numerous breakdowns, and lots of education about Nissan 720 fuel systems, and the problem the whole time was I didn't cut out that little plug connector. So lesson learned: If you suspect your fuel pump has gone bad, first test the voltage BEFORE the little plug connector, and if it is GOOD there, put your test probes AFTER the plug connector and jiggle the wires at the plug and see if you can get the voltage to be intermittent. Anyone need a slightly used Nissan 720 fuel pump?
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