Speedracer906

no, but I mentioned that my valve adjustment was done cold. Should I check that you think?

Yup, 1 & 4 are longer runs for sure. So since jet changes are not an option, can a hotter plug on 2 & 3 help to clean up the burn? Maybe I should just try it. I thought I’ve heard that some intakes have issues like what I’m experiencing. Sorry I checked out a couple days there, work was a bit comanding this last week.

Darn it, yes Mike, I meant 1 & 4 and 2 & 3. I only have 1x DCOE. 2 & 3 are running richer. I’m not sure I need to run any vacume advance, but if it was possible I thought I would.

Well, I looked around and came up short of a thread that spoke of my issue. I’m sure it exists... I have a DCOE mounted to a Cannon intake on my l20 powered 620. I’m getting real close on my tune of the engine, I’m doing it all by feel. I do know I’m up in around 12-14 degrees of advance on my timing, I’m not running the vacume advance yet. My question is: cylinder 1 & 4 burn good to lean, and Cylinder 2 & 4 are a bit rich. I imagine that the longer runners on my Cannon intake mix the fuel better than the short runs, right? I was wondering if a hotter plug on 2 & 4 could help? I also wonder, if by chance, my valve adjustments happen to be off a smidge and coincidentally coincide with 2 & 3s rich-ness. (I adjusted the valve cold) lastly, I need to find a fitting thet can screw to my only existing vacume port, on the cannon, so that I can steal a vacume advance line for my distributor. It would have to work the brake boost line and have a small fitting for the distributor. Thanks.

Well again, thanks Mike for the efforts. It’s clear that the slave gave it up. Could have been worse, having not added fluids in the trans. I think the only reason the piston could have poped out and for there to have been enough pressure for it to get to that point, would be that the master wasn’t returning all the way. Really, I guess I need to just start back at square one and have a functional slave to work with, that’s due in on Tuesday. On the throwout concerns, I did notice that the fork was in the middle of the working range in the opening when all contact was made. The piston in the slave was well inside the cylinder as well. Enough, ideal? We’ll find out.

I had 30 min to do a bleed before I stepped out. Piston in slave cylinder in sufficiantly and pressure not even build up yet and the slave leaks into the boot. I’m going to replace the slave cylinder.

The combination is all new and I drove 60-65 miles on it so far. A grabbed a Centerforce PP and disc from a planed swap for my 73 Z that has a 5-speed now. I’m assuming I picked the year 79 for the date. I’m assuming that’s the year of the tranny I now have in my 620 too. All I have are assumptions to go by. The throwout options I had were the small and the medium when I put it together, then I found a tall, so I have one of those now to work with if needed. I went with the medium throwout. The fork came with the tranny. This morning, when it began to fail, I felt a hang up in the clutch feel, kinda like the pedal hung up on the floor mat. As it turns out it was likely the piston almost coming out the end of the cylinder and hanging for a sec. I say that cuz a few shifts later, when it really let go, the piston was lodged 70% out the end of the cylinder and the PP was engaged all the way in. So I power shifted home and did my re-bleed. When I blead it the pressure never build up after closing off the bleader. So I pumped a number of times like it was a Ford. SPLAT! it did it again. Thats where I’m at. I know I took out 97.9% of all the slack in the pedal to master feel. I like a solid feel, maaybee I did it too much. If the seal in the slave is likely good, cuz it’s new and heat may not have much effect on it, I might try to make sure the pedal has enough slack, and make sure the master returns properly. Then the question is, do I have the correct throwout again? -I’ll be out for a while, I’ll check back in the AM Thanks for the efforts to work through this Mike!

Ok, working theory has changed. I melted the seal on my slave cylinder. Everything worked well, the next day it all worked a little longer, but the seal was weakened/melted and gave up, I’m sure. But in the back of my mind is this throwout housing concern. So, question: can there be functionality with the wrong throwout set up and if so, does the working pedal travel really give the missmatch away or is it one or more issues that speak of the problem?

I have hopes that that’s it. Does the slave piston have any rubber associated to it? Uhm, I don’t want to admit why I may have gotten the transmission really hot, but yesterday I lacked some kind of fluid that people usually put in the transmission when I drove 60 miles...

Roger that. Is it hopefull that it all worked well prior to the demise? It shifted well, it seemed to feel like the pedal was working the clutch in the right range. The clutch action was near the top of the pedal travel, enough so that I might assemble it all again and make sure the master is returning all the way. The thing that concerns me is that the slave piston has to be so far near the end of the cylinder for the rod to make full contact with the fork and the fork to push the throwout into the PP... but it worked so well... for a while. I guess I’ll dbl check the slack on the pedal to make sure the master is returning as you’ve stated before Mike.

P.S. I need to dbl check if I had 1/16 play in the pedal or not.

I’ve seen that this topic is associated with the wrong throwout housing... I’m just wondering if a longer slave rod could buy me some time? The odd thing is that I drove the car for about 60 miles and it was doing fine. Then I took it out to fine tune it (new build) and I felt the slave piston hang up... pumped it a couple times to see if it was going to cause me trouble and SPLAT! No clutch. Got home and replaced the slave boot, filled and blead the system and pump, pump, pump, SPLAT! So I can see that in order for the slave rod to contact the fork, the piston in the slave is already very near the end of the cylinder. Also, the fork has a lot of room to move before the throwout firmly makes contact. So I know I had no idea what combination of clutch plate and throw out to use, quite frankly the numbers and years and sizes were hurting my simple mind. I’d try and measure height of the assembly and I was getting all F’d up. With no other option than a small and multiple med height throwout housings, I went with the med. Then....I found a tall throwout housing. Figures I’d find it after I put the engine in. !!! So, is this classic throwout height issue?

Well, back at it. I came home with a GM mini...sacralige I know. I’ll search up the wiring steps now. The best part of the fit was that IT FIT! I had an altinator bracket that was more like flat metal, instead of the molded/curvy one. This gave me a nice flat surface to butt up the single horned GM to. The bolt sizes are off, meaning the mount takes a 10mm and the GM altinator mount hole is larger. If I get all fussy with the mod I’ll grind off the existing bolt and up size it so that the altinator doesn’t wiggle around when loose. When everything is tight the altinator is fine as is. I can’t believe how much room I have down there. Update: I just confirmed that this Denso 12170 is 35 amps. Just ran across this post, it’s also about the Saturn Alt. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7830-saturn-alternator-how-to-wire-in/

No, this truck was a donor for a Datsun Chinnook and was less engine, trans, driveline when I bought it.

Well, "guaranteed to fit" is being called into question... I recieved an Ac Delco 334-1547 and it smells like a duck, that is to say, if it looks like the same as the car one I also recieved and mounts like the car one, it must be the same as the car one. Mount holes too small for the bolts that fit into my mount, cannot rotate alt due to idler arm and zert fitting. Again, can the mount be -also -giving me some trouble? Should I go to NAPA instead of Autozone? Should I just plan on doing the Saturn alt swap??? I'd take a pic and post but...photobucket! For the record,the alternator(s) I recieved for the 77 620 does not look like the photo on anyones site that claims "guaranteed to fit".