83turbo280zx

I haven't tried a 225mm pressure plate, think I will order one just to see if it will bolt up, but i'm thinking it won't.

Ok I confirmed today a 240mm clutch plate will line up with the dowels and bolt to the RB flywheel. So if you wish to use a 240mm stock or performance clutch rather than the 350z clutch, you can do it.

You know I may be actually talking out of my ass lol. I can't prove that one for sure, but give me about a week and I will take a stock 240mm pressure plate and see if it will bolt up to the 250mm flywheel. I just assumed the bolt pattern and spacing was still the same, which it probably is, but as far as physical measurements, may be a tad bigger. If i find that the 240mm and 225mm will not bolt up, I will strike that from the above post to avoid misinformation

This is the original thread on hybridz.org http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124844-confirmed-l28-with-rb25-flywheel-and-350z-clutch/?p=1167280 Sparknotes, I had a machine shop fabricate some spacers to adapt a RB25/RB26 flywheel to a L series. I know for sure the crank size is the same from 70-83 on the L series inline 6's. I would imagine the 4 cylinder versions are the same, but without having one to measure myself, I cannot prove. So if someone can possibly provide that information, that would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping this will also transfer over to people building the 4 cylinders and gain some interest there as well. The basic premise of it, is the back of the L crank is 80mm, the back of a RB crank is 81mm, so there is a 1mm difference that needs to be accounted for. The flywheel bolts will not hold it, they will eventually shear as they are not designed to take the load. So the spacer I have designed will fix this and allow you to bolt on a RB flywheel, and use a 350z clutch. We used a XTD brand clutch, which the pressure plate seems to be thicker than some of your name brand clutches, so it rubbed the bell housing. We are using a 280zx transmission (FS571W- B), I have not clearance tested a T5 bell housing yet, but I will very shortly and update the thread. Other members on hybridz.org have used Exedy, Clutchmasters, with no rubbing problems, so I'm hoping it is just isolated to XTD brands. The lightweight RB flywheel is significantly cheaper than a Fidanza flywheel for the L series. Fidanza - $330~ *240mm surface XTD Rb flywheel - $162 *250mm surface (If 350z clutch is used) You can opt to use a 350z clutch if you want to take advantage of the extra surface area and extra clamping force Or if you want to stick with your turbo clutch, you can still use a turbo (240mm) clutch, the only difference obviously is the surface area used on the flywheel. But i did confirm a 240mm pressure plate WILL in fact slide on the dowel pins and bolt up to the RB flywheel. This is great if you just want a light weight flywheel but already have a performance turbo clutch, or want to keep the stock clutch, you can bolt it to the 250mm flywheel and only use 240mm of surface area. This spacer is $30 shipped anywhere in the Continental US. I will ship international, it will just cost more. Anyone interested please e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net I had a very limited run made by the machine shop, so if I run out, I will have to have another order made, which will usually take 2 weeks or so. Pictures of the bell housing areas are provided in the hybridz.org link above, measurements will be provided in the coming weeks as I have a transmission to pull back out to install this spacer, so I will take more pics and post them then. Pics of the spacer

Yea 3 was enough for me. The first two i broke the 3rd/4th gear shift fork where it engages the collar for the synchros, so i had no 3rd or 4th. The last one i did the same thing but it grinded rather than not engage, so i kept driving it and I did a hard 5th gear pull and it locked up solid on the freeway lol. I absolutely LOVE the KA trans so far! Wish I'd have done it years ago!

I would've loved to build a turbo maxima. I had the opportunity a while back, but I got smart and realized 1 project is expensive enough lol. If you start getting close to maxing out the stock turbo and injectors, I'd highly suggest doing the FS571WC trans conversion. I wish I'd have done it years ago. I got real tired, real fast of replacing broken T5's lol.

Thank you! Looking forward to frequent these forums!

Hey guys, I've known about this forum for a few years now, didn't realize that it had some Z love going on, thought it was only 510's and what not. Anyway, here's my 83' 280zx Turbo that I bought bone stock in 2008 with 72k on it. 83' 280zx Turbo L28ET Engine: N42 Head w/ P79 "A" Cam (8.3:1 CR) Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo Front Mount Intercooler S13 SR20 Aluminum Radiator + 13" Slim E-Fan Megasquirt 2.2 V3.0 16x16 Standalone ECU Walbro 255 Fuel Pump N42 Intake Manifold Custom Ram Air Intake 60mm 240sx Throttle Body Ported Turbo Manifold, Turbine Housing, and Downpipe Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve Apexi 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 3" Test Pipe MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil Battery Relocation to the Spare Tire Well Oil Catch Can Transmission: 240sx FS5W71C 5 Speed Conversion Billet Aluminum Short Throw Shifter Exedy Stage 2 Clutch Custom Driveshaft with Heavy Duty Spicer U-joints Suspension: Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Bushing Kit Modified Z31 Poly Urethane Rear Crossmember Bushings Suspension Techniques 1" Front - 7/8" Rear Sway Bars Tokico HP Blue Shocks with Eibach 2" Drop Springs on all 4's MSA Rear Camber Eccentric Bolts Brakes: Arizona Z Car 4-Pot Front Brakes Hardened Rotors and Ceramic Rear pads Wheels : XXR 532's with Modified Turbo Swastika Center Caps BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Comp-2 Tires Body: S30 MSA Type-1 Lower Valance Angel Eye Projector Headlight Housings with 6k Hi/Low HIDs Interior: Honda Integra DC5 seats Type-R Shift knob Leather Shift boot Glowshift Digital Wideband Gauge Glowshift Elite 10 Water Temp Gauge Faze Boost/Vac Gauge Future Plans: 440cc 7mgte injectors w/ 11mm Pallnet Fuel Rail Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator -6AN Fuel Lines Garrett A/R.60 T3/T4 Turbo Modified 240sx Engine Torque Damper Z31 Front Camber Plates Kaaz 2-Way S13 LSD Conversion Tial 38mm External Wastegate Hope you all enjoy! I've been working on Z's since I was 16, and I'll be 26 this year, I'm also a mechanic by trade so I am very knowledgeable when it comes to the S130 and the L-series I6s, so please feel free to ask me any questions, I'd be more than happy to help!

The EFI connectors are notorious for getting moisture in them and having corrosion. Make sure all of your EFI connectors and your ECU connectors are clean, Use contact cleaner in a spray can and a little di-electric grease upon reassembly to prevent it from happening again. You can also download a FREE copy of the FSM from xenons130.com and component test the CHTS which is another common failure point, and will cause issues that you are having. You might have a friend unplug the CHTS while you've got it running and are inside the car holding the throttle to keep it idling, if it starts running better as in doing a hard pull in a parking lot, you may be onto something as far as a fuel starvation issue.

I run 93 octane (Texas) oil I usually run Castrol 10w-40 with 1 quart of Rislone ZDDP additive. As stated above, none of the newer shelf oils (aside from Valvoline VR1, Amsoil, and some Royal Purples) have the proper ZDDP amount in them for flat tappet valve trains anymore. Everyone is running roller valve train which doesn't require as much ZDDP. -83 Turbo 280zx L28