Outta_OC

It fits! Huzzah

So, I ordered and have received this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4375947&cc=1210105&jnid=324&jpid=0 DEA A6013 from rock auto, but it doesn't look like the proper part, and since my datto is my daily driver, I don't want to pull the the thing apart and have to put it back together with the broken parts... Has anyone used this part on a 74 620 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/31215-driveshaft-carrier-bearing/ I'll just tear it apart tonight and find out for myself, but if anyone knows off hand, that would be epic

Wow... that just happened... rad

LoL I think the tab holding the torsion bar in place bent and it allowed the cuff to slide forward and off the rear splines...

C clip off Can't pull the bar back? Torsion bar out...

C clip removed

What are the names of these armes and bolts at the end of the torsion bar?

The bar is not broken. It seems tight - as in i can not rotate it. Unlike the piece in my first picture, which ca be easily rotated. I lifted the front end about an inch last week, by adjusting the two nuts on the rear arm(your first picture) and everything seemed good until i hit this bump. What would have caused the release of compression which is indicated in my picture.

So i hit a bump in the road today and my passenger side front end collapsed.... when i got home and jacked her up, this is the only thing "broken" / out of the ordinary i can recognize at the moment. Any ideas as to what i can do to fix this? That end of the torsion setup is now able to move freely, does that mean something internally snapped?

That gear drive is gnarly. Are they 3d printing with aluminum and steel yet? 3d printed parts for Datsuns... by 2020? http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/you-can-now-3d-print-with-metal-at-home

I know next to nothing about these beauties. Dohc race motors... I'll search YouTube for some sounds of it purring... http://fcyap.blogspot.com/2014/10/datsun-120y-lz18-group-4-race-car-from.html?m=1 Is this similar to what people are doing with the KAL24DE? Obviously these were factory race motors... But the KA Dr is 16 valve right?

My girlfriend is getting tired of me spending my satudays under the hood... Hahaha... Thanks for all the helps guys, I'll pull the plugs and gap down a bit

I put the champion equivalent due to autozone not having the ngk in stock. I do have the pertronix igniter - so .039 is perhaps ok? The thing is running so much better now it's amazing

Yeah it's running great after the new plugs and working thermostat... Hah. Revs all the way through now. The plugs were gapped at .39 I think... I guess I should pull them and gap to .32?

Yeah it's running great after the new plugs and working thermostat... Hah. Revs all the way through now. The plugs were gapped at .39 I think... I guess I should pull them and gap to .32?