I have a new stock gear to play with from Cloyes. Tomorrow the one arrives from Japan, if I'm here to sign for it. One way or another, I should be able to have it sorted before the weekend is out. I'll post what I find.
Mike, keep in mind that 9 degrees (per tooth) at the cam reads as 18 degrees at the crank where all measurements are taken. Cam moves at half speed so all measurements are doubled. You always degree the cam from the crank to get more precise measurements. This means a 3 degree jump at the cam is a mile at the crank. Frustrating.
Some places still use an acid bath to dip car bodies and frames, but you never get it out of the seams, and its almost impossible to seal all internal surfaces. Sandblasting works best. An inexpensive shop might charge $100 to blast a frame clean, or up to $500 to blast and seal in epoxy primer. Strip it 100% first, or you'll be finding sand everywhere you don't want it. Inside the diff, steering box, everywhere. Its unavoidable unless you full disassemble.
By thoroughly sanding it first, you can keep the frame "wet" with a 50% phosphoric acid mix (like Milkstone remover found at TSC) to dissolve the remainder of the rust in the pits. Its ineffective if its not warm (70+ degrees).
I agree to skip the rust encapsulators. They are no more effective than just painting over it, which is essentially what you'd be doing.
QA1 is local to me. So is Viking, which was started by the pissed off engineers that used to work for QA1. If you read through the American car forums, you'll find a growing disdain for QA1. While they offer a product, apparently there is ample room for improvement. So much so, that you can drive from their manufacturing facility 2 miles and find better shocks at Viking. You may want to look them up as an alternative.
After talking to guys from both places, I won't deal with QA1. Lots of attitude, very little knowledge or advice. Viking is quite the opposite. When I go coil-over on our race truck, they have my business.
I have zero affiliation with either company. I just happen to live 20 minutes away from them both.
I'll second the inline 6 with a 10 lb flywheel being a pain in the butt. 16 lbs is more ideal for a street car that may see some autocross or very occasional track days.
Is there a triple SU/Hitachi setup using HS6s (1 3/4") for this engine? That would be a hell of a lot of fun, and less than half the price of triple Webers. You'd only lose out over 5000 rpm or so, and I doubt you'd really spend much time there anyway. If you find used DCOEs, chances are good they are jetted all wrong, which is why they went up for sale. Jetting per carb can very, very, very easily exceed $200. Jetting on SUs is about $12 each.
As far as Nismo's gear, I don't really care what it is or where its from. I have to assume they don't make it, as they don't make most of the gear in their catalog. Maybe none of it? As far as I know they could be buying parts from you. No idea. Don't care. I just know the gear I purchased with 8 holes in it is seriously made wrong, and it came in the same generic type package you see from Nissan. The vendor who sold it to me promptly offered to replace it, so I'm guessing its a known issue.
I ordered an adjustable gear out of Japan this morning. If I can pinpoint a couple settings that work on the dyno, I can drill stock gears to match what the adjustable gear is set to very easily, so I don't even have to use a bushing.
I also plan on modifying a "fixed" timing chain tensioner, given how short our races are. That would allow us to try cam timing changes on the course in a matter of minutes.
Isn't the Nismo gear a modified stock gear? Assumptions are a dangerous thing. The big problem is that we don't know who is modifying them, and how many people/shops are doing it.
All of this is required due to the radical cam I'm playing with. The guys at Schneider Cams said it was the most extreme 4 cylinder cam design they've ever ground, which means it had to be ground off-center from a normal grind to provide enough meat for the lobes without running out of hardened material. I'll have to break it in with light valve springs, then install something a little stiffer to be able to sustain the high rpms I need without valve float. I'm pretty sure 225 over the nose isn't going to cut it.
That's great, if you get the right guy on the phone. Keep in mind that not everyone is an A student, and sometimes their commission is higher on different product lines. I've been shoved down the wrong road many times...
Does anyone stock an adjustable cam gear that fits an L20b in the US???
I need one that actually adjusts. I just tried installing one with 8 holes last evening. I can't get to the setting I need. The funny thing is that I get the same 106 degrees at settings 1,2,3, and 4 gives me 114. A,B, C, D are all obviously way off, and I can't skip a chain tooth to get there either. This is checked reading .050" down each side of peak, always checked while rotating CW to account for chain slack.
I'm willing to bet what you're feeling has more to do with a driveline angle issue. Have you added a spacer at the carrier bearing to straighten driveline angles? It may be sitting lower than the pinion, but should be mid-way between the transmission output shaft height and the pinion flange height. Have you corrected the pinion angle after the drop? Did your new U-bolts come loose? I'd suggest double nutting or using nylock nuts.
Is it really axle wrap or a vibration when accelerating? If its just a vibration, you need to drop the pinion nose, likely with tapered shims at the leafs.
Hang, run a significantly larger pulley on the alternator to slow it down. A Speedway Motors 4" race pulley could be modified to work. Or install a switch to drop the field coil when you plan on racing. That would help take the load off the bearings.
Already done, although there was very, very little. And the CBX is all polished with an ultra-fine industrial steel wool I got from a friend who owns a Teflon applicating shop. I wish I could find out where he buys it. It doesn't "shed" like normal steel wool. The texture is more of a loose long-stranded braid.
Since Tech Line Coatings sponsored us, I disassembled the engine, cleaned off the pistons, blasted them, and coated the tops with ceramic CBX, the skirts with a thermal barrier lubricant, and the interior with a thermal dispersant that sheds oil quickly.
Got a little more work done over the last couple days. Sprayed some of the Tech Line Coatings on the head, valves, intake manifolds, and got a solid start building a box cover. The cover has to be flush with the rails, no exceptions.