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Member Since 24 Apr 2015
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 03:22 PM

#1498558 I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

Posted by distributorguy on Yesterday, 11:51 AM

I hate adjusting point too, but if you only have to do it every 6000 miles, that's not a big deal.  On Datsuns, the distributor is front and center, easy to access.  On a Lotus, not so much.  You have to pick your battles.  

#1498290 Bonneville Speed Week

Posted by distributorguy on 21 June 2017 - 12:11 PM

We're forced to be safe - or they don't let us on the salt... :thumbup:

As Mike Rowe would say... Safety 3rd...  Or was it "Drive fast and take chances."?  

#1498195 I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

Posted by distributorguy on 21 June 2017 - 06:41 AM

That's the one, and the clamp is modified for more timing travel.  It can be fitted with an external condenser to make swaps easy if they need to be done.  Looks like its ready for a rebuild and to be set up for the race!

#1498005 Air Conditioning help...R12 to R134a adaptor or?

Posted by distributorguy on 20 June 2017 - 12:25 PM

For about $100 you can buy a vacuum pump and gauge set to pull a vacuum on your system, removing 100% of the remaining R12.  Then you can install the adapter and fill it with R134a.  You should be able to find a few YouTube videos on the process.  


Prior to that, just make sure there are no leaks, its wired properly, and you have a belt that doesn't slip.  

#1497909 I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

Posted by distributorguy on 20 June 2017 - 04:15 AM

Get your new rods resized before having the crank ground.   Main studs/bolts and line hone done as well, then grind the crank to fit the holes.  


I don't know if you can still order a new points distributor from the dealer - I doubt it.  Find a dirty old core and I'll set it up for you.  Its my day job.  Great looking coupe by the way!  I hope for your sake you have figured out great ventilation for it or you'll be COOKED in Mexico!!!  MGAs are hot in winter driving!  Cool Suit?  


My build is here:


#1497559 74' 620 Stopped Suddenly While Driving

Posted by distributorguy on 18 June 2017 - 09:44 AM

Headlight work, so the battery supposedly has power.  How much power?  Check voltage to see if its 6V, 9V, 12+V.   If you have electronic ignition, the truck WILL die at 10V, but the headlights will still work.  

#1497509 I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

Posted by distributorguy on 18 June 2017 - 04:53 AM

Use a single point factory distributor.  That's what I'll be using at Bonneville in August with a similar engine build.  86.5 mm bore, 2 liter.  The matchbox has issues at higher rpms.  Timing regression mostly, so loss of power.  My single point is set up to run over 9000 rpms with no loss in timing or signal quality.  Yours only needs to last a week, so worrying about points wear/failure is silly, and as small as the cylinders are, don't complicate it with MSD or other crap that may leave you stranded.  


Stay away from the "new" stuff, unless its a legit NOS Hitachi.  Made in China $11 reproduction distributors are worth the $11 that they sell for wholesale.  


Maybe call Rebello and see what pistons he might have available for your build.  JE pistons are much less expensive when you repeatedly make the same ones over and over.  He just has to call in an order number to reproduce a known good piston formula with great piston-to-valve clearances and the right compression heights.  He'll also tell you who to get your rods from.  Then again, maybe you want to have him just put the motor together for you? 

#1497505 Rebuilding my L20B

Posted by distributorguy on 18 June 2017 - 04:37 AM

Janky?  Its wiring.  Use a ring terminal or a blade-type crimp connector (so you don't have to completely disassemble it).  

#1497042 Bad oil pump?

Posted by distributorguy on 16 June 2017 - 10:28 AM

True.  That wear pattern on the gear is interesting.  There was quite a bit of grinding going on.  Fugly.  

#1496941 620 Land Speed Record

Posted by distributorguy on 16 June 2017 - 04:25 AM

Last night we got our driver behind the wheel for the first time!  Since the truck is nowhere near street legal, he drove it around our place in the country a bit to get a feel for the steering, clutch, and brakes.  Then he drove from the end of our driveway up to the house, which is roughly 1/4 mile of uphill gravel, over and over.  By the end I got him to push rpms up close to 6k, and he was never able to get the truck squirrely or out of sorts.  That means we can pull the practice motor and install the race motor!!!!  Its getting close to race time.  This is getting real!

#1496722 Bonneville Speed Week

Posted by distributorguy on 15 June 2017 - 08:18 AM

Anyone who wants to stop by and say "hi!" or lend a helping hand, we'll be racing at Bonneville from August 12th-18th, unless we set a record, break, or get tired of trying and leave early.  


If you're not familiar with the venue at the salt flats, the pits are located about 6-7 miles from the start lines, off to the left of the long and short courses.  We'll be racing the short course, off to the far right as you're driving in, unless we break 150 mph.  Yeah, right!  


Hotel rooms are almost all booked at the Wendover casinos, but there are a couple rooms left.  Come Tuesday rooms are cheap and plentiful, but all the excitement is Saturday and Sunday on the long course.  

#1496661 Ran out of gas, bogs/dies down at high speeds

Posted by distributorguy on 15 June 2017 - 04:01 AM

Ok sounds like I gotta check everything from the fuel filter back. I'm sure the tank still has debris in it based on how bad my fuel filter got and knowing it was a garaged for the majority of its life.
Wouldn't I see more crap in my new filter if the problem was behind the filter? The filter has run clear now for 2 weeks on all my test drives after refueling.

Actually, you need to check everything from the carb base gasket back to the fuel fill cap.  No stone unturned.  


The biggest likelyhood is that the float got bent a bit when you put the carb back together.  What you describe sounds like an emulsion tube problem, brought on from an improper fuel level in the carb.  Reset the float height and float drop to factory specs, and while you have the lid off, flush the emulsion tubes again with brake cleaner since its stronger than carb cleaner and leaves less residue.  

#1496660 1981 720 need parts source for DN480-14 distributor

Posted by distributorguy on 15 June 2017 - 03:56 AM

Even without the vac functioning, it should run very well.  If not, you have a serious issue that needs attention.  

Be wary of the Cardone parts.  I've seen several of their breaker plates that drag on the shaft - so much that it activates the advance curve even at idle making drivability completely unpredictable.  Cardone also rebuilds vac units, and sometimes they leave out some of the internals resulting in a huge amount of advance.  Again, do some comparisons before using their parts.    

#1496599 1981 720 need parts source for DN480-14 distributor

Posted by distributorguy on 14 June 2017 - 07:06 PM

Thanks Lockleaf.
Parts just aren't available. I make bushings, have tens of thousands of springs on hand, and have a pile of spare distributors for parts. I own 13 Sun distributor testers and one Snap-On Distribuscooe to verify advance curves.

You're right to question Cardone products. Most are worse than the old cores they "rebuild."

I can build yours up work the way you expect it to, versus how the factory assembled it. I make up for modern fuel and any potential modifications you may have made to improve performance. I'll tell you outright that points will make more power than electronics, but both can work almost equally well in normal driving. Cardone electronics are f'ed up. They don't fit or work properly. China trash.

Parts like a vac unit may still be had straight from Nissan - nowhere else.
I'm not cheap but you get what you want and a product that will last and last. Value.

#1495912 Distributor lubricants?

Posted by distributorguy on 12 June 2017 - 01:10 PM

The "bearings" inside are a sintered steel, and they require lubricant.  They are not sealed, rather they tend to only get a little blow-by lubricant from the engine, and since they are bushings not bearings (not shown in the diagram), they need all the help they can get.  If it sat a long while, rust will form between the shaft and the steel bushings, and result in a scraping/squeaking noise.  You're hearing it tear itself apart quickly.  At the bare minimum, add lubricant under the action plate.  Or have someone take it apart, clean out the rust and old grease, and oil it up good with engine oil only as you reassemble.