Jump to content


Member Since 24 Apr 2015
Offline Last Active Mar 15 2018 09:22 AM

#1551606 Danfiveten's Joker

Posted by distributorguy on 15 March 2018 - 06:31 AM

Epoxy a penny on the inside of the door behind each hole.  Then you can use more epoxy, bondo , or weld the hole in.  

#1551605 L20b timing help

Posted by distributorguy on 15 March 2018 - 06:27 AM

Split overlap looks an awful lot like both valves are closed so simply watch the 2nd valve open, then close, then bring the timing marks up to TDC.  That's your #1 TDC firing stroke.  

#1550351 Airdam indecisiveness

Posted by distributorguy on 08 March 2018 - 04:38 PM

Now hide that patch with the license plate, and leave the lower valance vents open!

#1550070 Found random 219 head in my stash. Worth saving?

Posted by distributorguy on 07 March 2018 - 12:04 PM

On my tablet now and can zoom in on head,,, that number 3 exhaust valve and seat looks seriously fucked up. The upper part of chamber looks like something bounced around in there too



That's a head worth a little weld time and new exhaust seats and valves.  Being a closed chamber, its the easiest way to make good compression.  Most heads were open chamber.  

#1549130 Where is the best place to return oil to the engine from the turbo?

Posted by distributorguy on 02 March 2018 - 08:10 AM

I second the use of the vent, and make sure your oil line is stubbed well into that vent so pressurized oil has only one direction it can go - straight into the pan.  The vent should have a shield inside the block so the oil will not splash directly on the crank, creating excess windage.  

#1547226 Airdam indecisiveness

Posted by distributorguy on 21 February 2018 - 06:12 AM

I'd throw your license plate in a sheetmetal brake and form it to wrap around the lower edge a little bit to help hold the halves together, then crease the center to follow the valence and spoiler contour.  


If you want to use the Camaro spoiler, heat it with a paint stripping gun ($10) and soften the ABS.  While its soft, you can clamp it in place until it cools.  It should stretch enough to pull the ends up to the profile of the valance.  Even, warm heat is the key.  Be patient.  

#1546926 No power?

Posted by distributorguy on 19 February 2018 - 02:28 PM

Mike, the choke blocks air so that the mixture richens for cold starts.  It CHOKES air.  That means the air fuel ratio goes richer than before, even if the same amount of fuel is being supplied.    

#1546925 Anyone know who made this dump bed hoist?

Posted by distributorguy on 19 February 2018 - 02:26 PM

Length closed, length open.  Then go to your local farm supply store.  Tractor Supply Co.?  Or online and price them out.  You also need the "pin"  or "eye" diameter.  Single action cylinders are the cheapest.  

#1546504 No power?

Posted by distributorguy on 17 February 2018 - 12:08 PM

Might also be a fuel supply issue.  Adding choke enrichens the mixture.  

#1545959 620 Land Speed Record

Posted by distributorguy on 15 February 2018 - 05:54 AM

I have a huge pile of offerings already.  I have a full day into a great air box for the Webers that didn't work, but it fit in the confined space.  I don't have any space confinements for the intake manifold due to up to 8" extra space from the hood scoop.  That doesn't mean my initial design won't suck.  In a bad way.  I hope it sucks in a good way.  

#1545841 620 Land Speed Record

Posted by distributorguy on 14 February 2018 - 11:54 AM

I don't really care what the parts look like on this truck - they just need to function well.  I'll farm the TIG welding to a close friend who's way better at it than me, so I just have to machine flanges and cut tubes.  In the past I would have said 4 hours.  Now I know better.  It'll be a long day.  10 minutes on the band saw for each flange, then up to an hour on the mill for each (4).  Easily an hour per runner to make them (4).  So  an 8-10 hour day, only because its not my first rodeo.  I've made plenty of headers from scratch, so this will be smaller - less materials = less time right?  My flathead Ford headers took 6 hours for both.  The race header was 5 hours, but I farmed out the welding, the flange, and the coatings.  


And after all that, it may work like shit and I'll toss it in the "gifts to the race Gods" pile and go back to Webers.  


First to do the rear brake brackets.  Nissan calipers on an S10 axle?  Sure!  4 hours.  

#1544956 620 Land Speed Record

Posted by distributorguy on 09 February 2018 - 05:24 AM

What length runners does your program say for a tunnel ram style, 3rd harmonic? I wonder if you would be better off making a common plenum for both SUs to sit and have the 4 runners equal? Is there room to have the runners in a big sweeping 180* over the tappet cover and the plenum on the RHS? Plenty room for carbs, away from exhaust? You could bang one together out of exhaust tube ghetto rough just to try it. Big arcs on 6in radius couldnt be worse than the bends in a downdrought mani. 2lt plenum volume and the self compensation of the SUs might give you more top end


That's not a bad idea - and an easy way to correct the firing order.   We run a huge hood scoop, so there's lots of room over the valve cover.  I'll have to check the rule book,  but I don't recall seeing any kind of rule regarding moving the carbs if you retain the stock style head.  For our short runs, using steel likely isn't going to be an issue, since I can also coat it with a thermal dispersant.  It would be a LOT of extra work, but building siamesed runners could potentially alleviate pulse issues and help prevent fuel from dropping out of suspension?  No computer program for the intake side.  I'm guessing from flowbench experience here.  

#1544854 620 Land Speed Record

Posted by distributorguy on 08 February 2018 - 04:03 PM

That would work, but there's not enough space for it.  Unless I convert to RHD?  I was planning to minimize the crossover or make it go away altogether to help reduce the extra pulses that redirect airflow in the manifold.   Its not like the Weber manifold is any different.  With SUs you'll actually get less pulsing, sort of.  There's potential for 2 &3 to go a little more lean, depending on how well fuel siphons from the jets.  Since we rarely get under 5K rpm, I'm not so sure the pulsing is going to have a dramatic "break" between 1 & 3 or 4 & 1 to cause an issue?  We're talking milliseconds.  Can it matter?  Of course, but to what extent?  



My header is computer designed and its huge.  No restriction, good scavenging.  I may redesign it to run out the back instead of the wheel well to make more room and quiet it down.  Its ungodly loud.  

#1544669 Floor sensor relay

Posted by distributorguy on 07 February 2018 - 07:43 AM

Only if you flip the truck over.  Then you won't need to go under it.   :rofl:

#1543758 6-lug space saver wheels?

Posted by distributorguy on 03 February 2018 - 05:25 AM


I agree whole heartedly.  I would like for there to be a way to easily modify the front hubs to 5-lug.  Then I can run much lighter wheels all around as ANY 5-lug pattern will have tons of narrow wheel options.  Its something I haven't had the time to investigate.  Since I run different tire sizes front/rear, the lug pattern isn't that big of a concern.  Its not like I have to plan on rotating wheels every 5k miles.  That would be 100 years of salt flat racing.  


Stockton made my current front wheels to get the right backspacing, but they don't have any narrow hoop options.   They also offer full perimeter welding at a very insignificant extra charge to meet rules.