im2bad4ya

It seems so because if I throw the turbo on as is on the top mount the compressor out flange points towards the engine. Found it :thumbup: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011&Category_Code=VSR2

I think I figured it out. There's a bracket I can use if I clock the turbo so the outlet on the compressor housing is parallel to the exhaust housing. Now I just need to get a part number or find someone who sells them, but it's from a Mazdaspeed Protege. Pic for reference. You can't see the wastegate bracket but I remember that it uses the threads on the compressor housing to mount them, no modification required.

I've tried looking but maybe you can guys can chime in. I'm going SR20DET on my 510, the swap I picked up is a complete factory swap so I know I can't use the original turbo setup as it is (down pipe, exhaust manifold, etc). I want to stick to the stock T25 Garrett (at least for now) so I know I'll have to get a top mount turbo manifold and clock the turbo to make it work. My question is how do I mount the internal wastegate, I'm not sure if there is a bolt on/plug and play bracket I can buy or if I have to fabricate something to make it work. I'm going with the CX Racing J-pipe since it's bolt on, set it and forget it. Also gonna go with the CX Racing new intercooler/radiator kit, supposedly doesn't require any cutting, just drilling holes for the bolts to mount the FMIC and radiator.

Not sure if old members are no longer active Or just being ignored Any thoughts? I've since decided I'm going with rubber bushings. But I wanted to know if anyone has thoughts of poly, how they settle in after use, etc.

I thought I'd bring it back from the dead. ORIGINAL LINK from post #1 https://web.archive.org/web/20130909093153/http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm

So, disclaimer, **TOTALLY USED THE SEARCH FUNCTION** But seriously, just want to get some info since it's been years since original posts about bushings, poly VS rubber, part numbers, dealers, etc. So I'm doing a restoration on my 510 and want to get new suspension bushings since mine are all cracked and dried. I'm pretty sure they are OEM from the factory. The car isn't my daily and here in the northeast, I don't plan on it seeing snow, or even rain for that matter. It's my car show/weekend cruiser. So with that out the way and knowing the way I'll use the car, I have no problem with polyurethane for my particular application, even though it's not for the track or anything but since it's not my daily, I can live with a "firmer" ride. After going through various threads and reading the debates and experiences on what type of bushings to use, it's pretty fair to say NOT TO USE POLY out the box on the TC RODS for any application as it compromises the integrity of the rods over time possibly leading to failure of the tension control rods. Even though this info was in older forum threads, I'm not sure if at the time there were any manufacturers making the rubber bushings specifically for the 510 or if people were just buying universal bushings and making them work. I've seen that the best compromise was to get the poly TC rod bushings and drill 6 symmetrical holes around the bushings to give them a little more play, is this still the best way to go for people like me who can't afford the fancy Futofab stuff?? :lol: I ended up getting a polyurethane kit form Prothane, #88-2009 (though this kit isn't listed on their website, I got it off ebay) It comes with front control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, strut bump stops, front sway bar end links, tie rod end dust boots, ball joint dust boots and rear control arm bushings. Can anyone chime in on how this stuff handles from years of use? Should I just get what rubber bushings I can? As far as I know, Moog still makes some of these rubber bushings but not all. My last question which I couldn't find an answer to was the mustache handle bar that hold the rear diff in place. There are two different sizes of bushings that can possibly fit the bar but I don't know if it is dependent on the year, diff type, etc. I have a 1972 manufacture in Oct 71. If no one know for certain I'll just end up doing it the old fashioned way and going under the car, removing it and measuring it. Are there any other bushings that I'm missing? Any combo of rubber and urethane people can recommend? Experience from years of using one of there other for street use?

I appreciate the help from everyone, just one more questions related the the electric components. Do I delete this switch on the gas pedal? The switch goes on when I have the gas floored, it kind of acts like an overdrive but I don't know if that's the exact function of it or if I leave it as is. (located under the steering column) Also Do these plug into anything? maybe the wires for a neutral safety switch?

I've read up as much as I can on the swap, I know I can reuse my auto gas pedal but I have to move it more to the right and bend the throttle arm so it's more like an OEM manual pedal. Did you have to cut a bigger hole where the shifter comes up or is it a perfect fit like an auto stick?

Thanks, damn that explains why when I was trying to remove the brake pedal the bolt tightened instead of loosened even tho I was wrenching to the left. I'll remove the pedals and put them on the auto pedal box and grind off the tab and weld that too. Thanks for that advice Everything else I have new. Slave cylinder, master cylinder, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, lines, etc.

i got around to taking pics of the transmissions. the one on the left has two sensors and "1972" written in sharpie. the one on the right only has the one sensor. which would be the one to use? Also I'm refurbishing my pedals for the swap and realized the pedals I bought have the top part completely cut off, they can still bolt onto the firewall though, but I haven't prepped them. Are the pedals good to use as is?

I have two different trannys, none of which I have pictures of but I have pictures of their cross members which are different. Can anyone identify the transmissions just by the cross members or are they just from a different model?

Ok thanks, didn't know if they were interchangeable, any idea where I can get these parts new?

$70-$90 to buy a set of new locks and keys, $130 to rekey what I already have, that doesn't include new keys. I just want to know if either of these sets will work on my 510

Can anyone point me to where I can get replacement locks and ignition? I found these two links from overseas ebay vendors and wanted to know if anyone has had good experience or even if they will work for that matter on my 510. http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-DOOR-TRUNK-FUEL-LID-LOCK-SET-FOR-DATSUN-SUNNY-B210-B310-120Y-130Y-140Y-/261959581263?fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item3cfe01fe4f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-DOOR-FUEL-LID-LOCK-FOR-DATSUN-NISSAN-720-D21-HARDBODY-PickUp-NAVARA-/311398403593?fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item4880ca8e09&vxp=mtr I figure it would be cheaper than getting a locksmith to refurbish my locks and ignition.

They're for American Racing Equipment Libre's extremely mint, no curb rash. :thumbup: Worth using on my car. But eventually I'm using Enkei Apache 1's for the front and SSR Star Sharks in the rear when I wanna go JDM :ninja: , luckily these are already 114.3