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SpiderRat

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  • Location
    san jose
  • Cars
    72' 510 sedan
  • Interests
    Getting this Datsun back on the road!

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  1. Update: Long story short I drive it everyday.... Heres how, Resurfaced flywheel Decided to get an exedy stage 1 kit. Picked up a transmission jack @HF and rented a pilot bushing removal tool @AZ all parts replaced and torque spec 83' 280zx 5 speed put in Put in a lokar cable pully K&N air filter Fuel regulator @3.5 psi noticed oil leaking from the head gasket and crossed my fingers and re-torqued the head bolts to spec. SUCCESS! The bolts that needed to be re-torqued were the exact areas where visual leakage was seeping from. :sweat: replaced valve cover with fel-pro gasket and decided to remove the black valve cover paint as well. Also picked up a mechanical water temp gauge and spliced my water return line. Had problems with the oil pressure when warm (9-16 psi) which would stall in traffic without peddling. Went to local Pnp to find a d-21 hardbody to pull from. 7 of those available in San jose but all 7 had the engines removed. Was lucky enough to find a Ka24de in a return pile of all places by the front entrance and got me one. :D Got all my gauges and now im rolling... I got the cluster but just getting by right now with this setup.
  2. Most likely it was wholesaled at one time and they never updated the system. A local junkyard had a 72 truck and I was lucky enough to pull the part off before being crushed.
  3. The thermostat I have does not have a by pass valve. The block screw is a 5/8 fine sae thread I was told and I cannot find ANY local place that could provide a open fitting to allow me to hook up a bypass tube. Is this the part that i need? And does the fittings have some special thread no common in the states? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-240Z-1970-72-Coolant-Water-Outlet-Thermostat-Housing-OEM/331517635039? _trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29700%26meid%3Dfdd9acf361ac40d7b457bd86010c5ab1%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D150538032069
  4. no luck RE: Order Number 31975 Thank you for ordering from PREMIER NISSAN . We regret to inform you that the following 1 item(s) are currently unavailable: Part: ADJUSTERCABLE,REAR PartNumber: 36547U0100 Reason: Discontinued
  5. Awsome Guys thanks. Another thing off the checklist I needed done. Doctor510: No worries thanks for looking though. For $5 dollars the local dealership can have my business.
  6. Ok Ive been a busy bee since the last post. Everytime I stall while waiting for one part to be ordered or found, I would tend to other needs of the car. Thus here is some of the main stuff I was up too. Wanted to change the intake manifold gasket and saw this. I added a El dizzy but i flipped it 180 to fit the diaphragm. I was told that the diaphragm didnt need to be connected to a vacuum hose because the dcoe webers i had on didnt req it. I do not know if this is correct so please inform me if I am wrong. The coil was swapped out too from a 83 nissan at a local pnp. The truck had two coils and I just pick the cleaner looking one. ***noob wiring question*** I had the dizzy set up to a L16/18 fire order and it starts up fine....does it really matter if it a 1,3,4,2 fire order starting from lower left and not the L20b locations of upper right? I tried both and both seems to starts up....I also timed it with the l16/18 fire order. Im assuming this is a vent of some sort. Correct me if im wrong please. Foam mesh feels new to the touch. Nothing was connected to this hole under the exhaust manifold when removed for paint so I dunno if something is missing. The exhaust heads are round port but the gasket is made for pre-smog. scrubbed and painted the block for a cleaner look. New correct gasket is test fitted on. **noob question***Previously I had two actual dimes siliconed to the water ports coming from the gasket. The new gasket has copper rings formed around the cooling holes and thus creates a smaller diameter. I was thinking of using old gasket material and making small plugs over the water ports or cutting aluminum circles from soda cans to prevent future coolent leakage from the bottom of the gasket. (evedence seen from the rust streaks on the pre painted block) baked it during the night with windows open. Primer and Black coat. Question: These are smog headers and comes with 4 straws. I knocked them out and thus exposed 4 holes. I could take it to the shop to have them welded shut. However can I JB weld the holes completely with a thick layer. Or maybe cut the straws down to almost flush with the exhaust housing and put more jb weld? Or is there other types of epoxy or hardener that i could use that would be high temp safe? If anybody read the story about my trip home. They would know that I was told the transmission was a traditional 5-speed and it crapped out on the last mile home (80miles). I tried shifter bushings and clutch bleeding but my troubles involved not being able to gear(R,2,4) in nuetral or running (syncros maybe?). Learned that it was a dogleg and when drained it spit out half a water bottle of liquid. No wonder why the transmission was load and grindy! DOH Well all good I found this 5 speed for a great deal along with other goodies. Sent the drive shaft to the shop for shortening. Picked up some Gl-4 for the 5 speed. I could of went Redline or Amsoil but I feel these should do. Please let me know if anybody tried this stuff and hated it. Driveshaft ready to be lifted into its correct placement. (37 3/8") But before I do that lets take a look at the clutch and flywheel shall we. Clutch looks OK Presure plate um look aight. Ring gear.......uuhhhhhh I ordered a 225mm stage 1 clutch kit from the auto store and going to get a new ring gear and resurface the flywheel. I was contemplating going 200mm roadster setup w/flywheel but Im a noob and wont appreciate it as much as if i had this clutch first to compare. Also I decided a heavy flywheel is what i wanted cause its gonna be a daily and not a track queen. Im sure I gonna post questions again about whats needed for the swap but i want to make sure with pictures when time comes so those who are following please bear with me. Looks ok here I think. I at first thought the oil pan gasket needed to be replaced because of the sludge around the pan but upon further inspection it looks to be old grime. I was told the engine had been rebuilt a while ago(5yrs). The seals look dry to me. I gave the edges a quick once over waiting to see if any seepage can be seen. Most likely Im gonna clean the pan anyways cause its starting to bug me as i am typing this now.
  7. I need to source this part to complete the e-brake. Its a rectangle turnbuckle that connects the ball end of one wire to a screw end of another.
  8. Replacing the e-brake cables. I happen to be missing the turnbuckle that connects the two wires together. I would very much like to know what part number or where I could source this item. The diagram displays the attachment as a rectangle shaped turnbuckle. The nissan dealership says they dont offer the specific part anymore.
  9. Im starting a build thread to keep basically myself motivated. With the Ratsun Forum help I will get this Dime back on the Road!!! Story: On 3/4/15:Found a decent 510 for sale on craigslist that didnt break the bank. I contacted the owner and drove the car home that night. The cars transmission started to act funny about a couple miles from home (not able to upshift). Had to baby it home but i got it back! Took the car out the next day and it cut out on me. Now it sits in the garage waiting for me to fix her up. BONUS:I also got a box of unlabeled parts to go with the car. No hood lock I had to bungie cord the hood down on the trip home. The battery was loose and had to buy a universal battery clamp. The 32/36 downdraft was leaking (power diaphragm) on to the Offy intake manifold. I bought a rebuild kit hoping I could fix the problem. eZ wiring kit was used (un complete) This is how i drove back. All i could remember on the drive back was how i could not hear myself think because the car was loud and also how coId the drive was as I needed to have the windows rolled down during the drive because it smelled like fuel. Found out the next morning where the fuel smell was coming from. JB weld the nozzle. Problem fixed. Taking things apart is fun. Even with the previous owners use of FatMat-ting the car, it was loud.Went to the PnP to find some deadening material and also dropped by Depo to get some Frostking. Picked up a divider from a intrepid at the PNP. And covered the opening. Frost king the wheel wells putting the yard scraps on the flooring hoping to silence the drone. Most of the deadening material was pulled from various Jags.(plenty of those in the yards.) 32/36 rebuild kit didnt do so well. It leaked everywhere and flooded the valves. I pulled it out and replaced it with this!!! Much better "looking". The radiator was dripping and I was planning to jb weld the suspected holes but Im gonna go to a radiator shop instead because the whole expansion/contraction thing worries me with epoxies.
  10. SUCCESS!!!! I yelled out ITs ALIVE!!! smoking and backfiring but it RUNS! (Will start another thread soon) I want to first thank DatzenMike,Hainz,&GGzilla - for providing knowledge and insight to what steps I needed to take and address to find what was wrong and fix it. I was about to call a mechanic but I kept trucking and got it to FIRE! Solution: Below "Electronic Ignition Troubleshooting Procedure (continued) • Step 2 • Connect the voltmeter or test light to the negative side of the coil and crank the engine. • The voltmeter should fluctuate or the test light should blink, indicating that the primary coil current is being turned on and off. • If there is no pulsing of the negative side of the coil, then the problem is a defective pickup, electronic control module, or wiring." -http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/IgnitionSystemDiagnosis&Service.pdf The test light on the neg side coil did not light at all! I discovered that I grounded the tach (purple wire) from (-) and also ran another ground to the engine bay the coil didnt like that at all. **GROUND ISSUE**.....DUH Removed the ground so the only connection coming from the neg (-) side of the coil terminal is coming from the distributor. Retest and "Blink Blink Blink" Crank Crank BAM BAM BOOOMMMM !!!! **I cheated a little and went back to the old 12v generic pictured above and put on the single points dizzy, cause I dunno why but I felt it was a simpler way to diagnose the problem. Now to make it work on the EL DIZZY!!!
  11. Yeah I tried that too. NO Spark SO...I figured 1. 12v is available to (+) cable through jump wire from battery. Voltage drops to 8v when cranking (ok?) 2.Used two different set ups independtly and mix and match (point dizzy--genreic coil <----& ---> El dizzy --aftermarket coil) - weak/ no snapping spark could it be the EZ harness is line is connected wrong somewhere? OR both coils are bad??? looking up coil testing procedures...
  12. PIcked up 2 side bushings (32855-h1010)- Results- The shift into 1,3,5 is a little more direct but shifting into R,2,4 is still not possible. With the car off I tried to row the gears and was still unable to get into (R,2,4) gears. stumped. thanks for the part number Datzenmike.
  13. ggzilla: No spark when attached to plug #1 at all Banzai5:I was thinking the same so I moved the lower crank to TDC (2nd etch) and put the roto on and it showed the direction at 2:00. The guy helping me who brought the coil over said it would work for test purposes of getting the car to spark. Even without a ballast it should spark if I hooked it up correctly?
  14. Datzenmike: Sorry to make this so confusing. The last picture was only a reference pic of when I first got the car home. NOW currently I have the el dizzy and aftermarket coil on. And yes I read that the point dizzy will need a ballast resistor but the coil has a printed text stating no ballest required. AGAIN this is now not currently on the car but INSTEAD a aftermarket coil that is "known to work" with the EL dizzy currently on the block. Hope its less confusing now.... GGzilla: I ran a jumper across to (+) battery to pos terminal of aftermarket coil. results--The engine still doesnt start just cranks. Coil is HOT **pic shows battery unplugged** ???
  15. Datzmike: thanks for the update reference photo engine setup when working (single point dizzy with coil that came with car) - car ran rich and able to commute home 50+miles
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