4DrSportsCar

I installed a digital AM/FM stereo from Z-Store into my 510---drops right in the dash where the original radio was--- and the wired up Sirius Radio (the digital steres has an input jack for this. Probelm is, the AM/FM stereo sound clear, but I'm hearing the engine come through when listening to Sirius. As rpm's increase so does the feedback. Should I do something specific with the hot wire to the Sirius radio? Right now I have it plugged into the cig lighter.

This is almost too easy. I see a lot of these with cracked rubber. I took a small sized vacuum hose, slit it open lengthwise, cut it to the size of the eyebtow, a touch of super glue on the inside edge, rub in a little Armor All and you're good to go. Actually gives just a little more emphasis to the grill than the original set up. Hope this is helpful to someone.

Thanks for all the feedback. As for the intake manifold, I'm running an Offenhauser dual plane manifold whose ports are smaller than the head ports to which they match. This was one concern when I built it, but from your post I read that if the intake ports are smaller than the head ports things should be ok. I think the Offy was built to match up to the stock L16 (210) head, but this head I'm using has larger intake ports and valves. Other comments have been made regarding the timing, and so here's' the rest of my dirty laundry: I'm running a rebuilt single point distributor, the original engine was a dual points set up. So I'm just 'ignoring' the lead for the second set of points. From what I've read, that second set of points was to cut emissions, and would not impact 'performance'. I plead insanity on this point. The spark is strong, the engine fires up immediately, and idles very smoothly when warm. The exhaust does smell rich, the engine has no sputter nor backfire, and will bark the tires in gears 1,2, and 3 . But when the rpm's 'hit the wall', it just seems that something is off. I don't know how to check if the certrifugal advance is sticking, as has been suggested. I'll check the tooth alignment on the timing gear--but if I flubbed that then I'll forever throw out my metric sockets and return to tomato gardening. What's wierd is that the engine does not seem to 'cross over' beyond the peak power band---it hits 5500 and continues to pull, but just very slowly. The guys at Rebello told me this set up i.e., the sss head with the L7 cam and their competition valve springs should really come alive at about 4500, and it does, but then it just sort of stays at 5500-5800 as if a governor were put on it. I'd be willing to convert to an electronic ignition set up if someone can advise me about that. But I don't want to just start changing things blindly hoping for a miracle. Thanks to all. I did this same thing 30 years ago on my first 510, except I used the stock head and carb. That baby pulled hard past 6500, and seemed to rev much more effortlessly than this situation, so I have a point of reference. Something has to be amiss.

Yes the cam specs you cited are what I have, and I did use the lash pads you specified also. I am running the stock Weber 38 carb and jets, except I used larger idle jets (60's?) to get it to idle smoothly and not have that lurch at take off. It will idle smoothly when warm at 600 rpm, has very smooth power delivery up to 5500. The head is the closed chamber head, for sure v912. I'm running stock distributor with timing set at 12 degrees btdc. The mixture seems a little rich to me simply based on the exhaust, but if I lean it out would this not restrict the power further? The entire valvetrain is new: valves, inner and outer springs, cam, rockers, lash pads, head. I don't know who in the midwest would be able to diagnose this further, if anyone knows a good speed shop in the midwest I'd be willing to take it there. Sounds like a good reason for a road trip. Obviously I've not had this on a dyno.

I put an L7 in a small chamber (sss) head and bolted onto an L18 short block. Th short block is newly rebuilt with the stock dished pistons. The engine pulls nicely up to about 5500 and then starts to slowly taper off. I'm running stock header running into 2" tailpipe, with the Offy dual plane intake with a Weber 38. This engine just feels tight and does not rev freely. Is the bottom end too weak to push the rpm higher? Te engine feels like its being held back once it hits 5500. I'm not an engine builder, so I don't profess to understand all this, but does this cam profile just not make sense on a street car where I'm looking to have a little fun going from traffic light to traffic light....?