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nismo_tuner125

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ventura County
  • Cars
    73 Datsun 510, 03 Mazda Protege

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  1. Adjusted the valve lash today and the ticking sound seems to be normal now. I can still hear the lifters tick but it's quieter and not intermittent like it was before. Sounds like I think I remember it sounding before the head gasket change. In regards to the chain slack, turned the crank clockwise to remove the driver side slack, the other side had very little slack.
  2. The tensioner was wedged with a block of wood. I followed the steps outlined in the How to rebuild your Nissan OHC manual. I meant to look into the valve lash earlier today but didn't have time to pick up a set of feeler gauges. I'll take a look and report back.
  3. I changed the head gasket on my L20B a few days ago and within the last 2 days I've noticed a slight ticking sound. Initially I thought maybe it was the valves, but after poking around a bit more I noticed the dizzy side of the chain has a good bit of slop in it and I'm sure that is resulting in the ticking sound that I hear. I hear it sometimes at idle and low rpms, but I can't hear it once I start getting around 3k and higher. It isn't terribly loud from the inside of the car, but definitely noticeable if you listen for it. This is my daily, so is it something that I should minimize the driving that I do with it for now? https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5pPsASNEknTQk02ZWh6cTB3NTA&usp=sharing
  4. Just ordered a filter a couple of days ago. It still looks clean, but it's been in there for years so it's probably time anyway. Can these clog up and still appear clean? I actually put the bolt back in, just lower. Without the bolt, the pedal did want to pull the throttle open just a bit beyond what the carb allowed for.
  5. My car has died a couple of times after driving at freeway speeds and then going full throttle. The engine completely loses power and starts back up after turning it over a few times. Then everything is fine again. Happened a couple of times in the last few days. Does this sound like the pump isn't keeping up with the demand? I can't say if I've had this problem or not with the last pump since I just recently discovered there was a bolt underneath my pedal that was limiting its travel.
  6. Thanks for the sites. I actually found a Nikki fuel pump from a seller named atomboys on ebay. Coming out of China though, so a bit of a gamble on legitimacy.
  7. As far as ordering parts from the dealer, where do you go for that? Call a local dealer, or one specific to NOS? I've never ordered parts through Nissan before.
  8. Hopefully the replacement will last long enough for me to acquire a stock pump. I never knew the OEM ones were so robust.
  9. Hello, I am new to the forums, but have browsed around here for a little while over the last few months.If reviving old threads is frowned upon here, I apologize. In any case, I have started working on a 1973 510 with an L20B since the beginning of this year. I changed out the mechanical fuel pump just this past Sunday and used the included spacer. The last pump did not have a spacer but ran fine for a long time. So after reading that using it is a good idea, I did. The car went 200 miles with the new pump and I made it home. The following day the car dies, I thought from running out of fuel. Long story short, I get towed home, remove the pump, and find that the shaft that the pump arm sits on has backed out of its groove. I'm getting a new one from O'Reilly tomorrow. Is this just a bad pump? You can see how much shorter the new (bottom) pump's arm extends, plus the extra distance with the spacer. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pPsASNEknTVnlZSlV0M0ZMNDA/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pPsASNEknTMnU4bTNZMVpOams/view?usp=sharing
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