D.R.F.15

I forgot to post these but the front driver-side caliper

that took long enough, sorry about that. pictures are not the best I realize, if you need them farther away from the actual part let me know. But with the adustable rod, we had adjusted it because the brake pedal was too firm. I guess a another bleed wouldn't hurt but I don't know.

Oh wait never mind my father had bled it before. Also there is an adjustable rod on the booster hold on. I am getting destroyed by this picture system

And now we did not bench bleed the master

I'm sorry I don't know what an NSLV is :X. But the bleeder screws are at the top. Basically at the moment, the pedal is very spongy, where before we adjusted the needle on the brake booster it was much too firm and locked the rotors up. I am going to sejd pictures right now, am in the garage.

Hey guys, I am building a brake system on my 620, I wanted to know if the amount of brake lines in a brake system has anything to with the pressure of the pedal. Thing is, we are having trouble getting the pedal feel down after bleeding the brakes the first time. The basic setup is a pre-1991 Z32 1" bore master cylinder with a wilwood proportioning valve. The brakes used are 26mm 4 piston brake calipers from a non-turbo Z32 (thanks to Beebani for the adapter tool) and 1 piston brake calipers off a 1990 Izuzu trooper in the rear. Note: this had already been answered in general, but with that out of the way, the brakes still feel spngy and hit the floor. I believe it is because we had adjusted the needle (?) on the standard 620 booster that goes into the master cylinder because the brake pads would lock up on the rotor, not letting up after the brake pedal was released. There is also a notable amount of fluid movement in the resevoir, I am not sure that this is supposed to be normal or not. Quote MultiQuote Edit Rep

I mean it's already been sold. It's fine though, I can have the vehicle registered out of state and it's at least a way to deal with the problem (lol)

yeah that's what I was thinking. it's honestly not about it running any better per se, but the gas tank is real old. Ill keep it in mind though, thanks

Hey guys, I was wondering what would be a good replacement for the gas tank on a 620? I was thinking of getting a fuel cell installed, since the original tank is beat up, but if there is a less expensive option then I can go that route.

yeah. the kicker was that the '74 didn't have a running motor (the '79 has an L20), and being my first build, I had to pull strings with my dad ://. still I think I came out okay. when you sell things like this, you're more than likely already going to lose a lot of money anyway haha.

if it helps to put it in perspective, I sold a '74 short bed 620 for $800 with the motor pulled out. Mostly clean except for dents on the fender and cab (big dent too, ran people away), and that I had switch out the hood for the '79 long bed I had just bought (lol). I'm probably super late to the party, but if you want it gone, someone will take it. eventually.

selling a disc brake conversion kit for 160. Can use it on a 74 620, but I don't need it anymore since I don't have a '74.

Hello, new user. I wanted to ask you guys, where would be a good place to order a windshield for a '74 620 with a regular cab? Or would I be better off having it made from scratch?