madlarkin

I'll snap some tomorrow when I'm out in the garage, guess I got the terminology wrong. I was talking about the shaft that bolts to the frame and serves as the pivot for the upper control arm.

So I have finally started tearing down the front suspension for my bag build and there is some serious weirdness going on with the existing parts. Getting details out of the way, the truck is a '74 kingpin standard cab that was pulled out of a field in northern New Hampshire. Hadn't run in god knows how long and has all sorts of awesome displays of butchery and "fixes". Now that that's out of the way... The upper control arms look like they have had some sort of big nut/cap welded in to the upper control arms without any sort of rubber bushing. The cap doesn't actually unscrew from the cross rod, the entire unit arm screws on to the cross rod and those threads function as the pivot. I also suspect somebody has shortened the cross rod as the bushings I have don't leave any thread exposed for engagement. I'll see if I can snap some pictures tomorrow but it's thrown me for a pretty major loop. I'm hoping that somebody kicking around here might have an extra set of cross rods they're willing to unload. The arms are still available but I can't find a set of the rods anywhere and I suspect I am dead in the water until I find those.

Finished this up a while back, managed to hack up the stock mounts and come up with something that works. Used 3/16" plate and hockey pucks as the isolator. Bolts to the frame with 1/2" grade 8 hardware. Ugly but functional passenger side. Motor sitting pretty.

Much appreciated, it looks like I need to slide the trans crossmember back by an inch and change.

Thanks, man. Back to the original question, any of you awesome folks mind tossing me a measurement from head/firewall and maybe bellhousing/firewall? I think it's become pretty obvious that I need to go back a bit farther.

I wouldn't go so far as to say "as well as", I'll be happy with ugly but functional.

Figured that I was going to get stuck into custom mounts and not super concerned about that. Going to pull the trans crossmember tonight and start getting it chopped up, just hoping to figure out a ballpark of how much farther back/up I can get away with going from my current position.

It's a DE. I ogled your mounts hard because they are so damn pretty, but I wanted to run SX mounts and open up my options a bit. My current plan is to section and slide the stock trans mount back. I was just hoping to get some ballpark distances from others who have swapped it before committing to a location.

Hi All, Slowly working through the KA swap in my '74 620 and I have a couple questions for anybody who's done it. I've done a lot of digging through pictures but haven't found any that give a really good perspective. -How far off are is the back of your head from the firewall? I'm running a 240SX motor/trans and after slotting the trans crossmember back as far as it will go my engine mounts still aren't lining up front to back. I've got about 1.5-2" between the head and firewall now and it looks like the radiator will end up being an uncomfortably tight fit. -How much distance do you have between the bellhousing/trans and the tunnel? I'm running the KA trans mount for better selection, but I think it's shorter than the truck unit. If i'm going to section and rebuild the trans crossmember, I wouldn't mind moving the trans/engine up a bit as well.