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katillidie

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  • Location
    pa
  • Cars
    2000 nissan frontier
  • Interests
    building ka's

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  1. Well I got everything back from the machine shop. king rod and main bearings are in... everything looks so much better...Now just need to find the time to reassemble it.. Crank polished Block honed and coolant passages modified for vq35hr headgaskets Modified coolant passage Other side Very clean block... numerous hours spent cleaning oil ports that were clogged from lack of oil changes [/url ] Sub oil pan 98% clean with new oil relief valve ( no pic sorry) installed since original was blown out
  2. Sorry to say the vq40 trans bell housing is way to big for the vq35.. And yes around my area there are actually quite a few vq40 2wd 6spds.. So im not worried about finding one..
  3. i have the pedal from the 2011 frontier to control throttle, trans will be 05-10 frontier 2wd 6 spd
  4. let me state that this isnt goin to be a quick build... my fronty is my only vehicle and i still have to tear down the vq40 and do a minor rebuild before i pull the ka24de out to start the swap... i will document the vq40 build here... once the build is complete and i find a cheap beater i will begin the swap... let me just say that the vq40 is a very difficult to find performance parts for... ive been researching and researching interchangeability of parts from the vq35de, vq35hr and vq40... so much misinformation on the web its ridiculous.. there is no aftermarket performance piston or rod company that make pistons or rods yet, exception of a custom set made by cp that's way outta my price range so i will be keeping the stock rods and pistons and just re ringing the 135k vq40.. i will be using vq35hr stock head studs, since they hold more pressure then arp studs for vq35de..(reg arp not l19) i will also be using vq35hr head gaskets..once the heads are off i will be able to figure out if i need to have the block coolant ports grinded down for the hr head gaskets, i will be using king rod and main bearings once they are released sometime this month.. some background on the truck.. i got bored with the s-chassis. my last build was great but i wanted something different so i sold it. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=397304 i finally found the right chassis for me the first gen frontier.. since ive had it the head gasket went at 260k.. so i figured why not do some s-chassis cross over by using a s14 head and 232/248 dual exhaust cam swap..http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=584174.. this has been great until i got a phone call from a friend who works at nissan, offering up a FREE complete vq40de with harness and ecu from a 2011 frontier.. so i picked it up.. only issue at the time was the water pump failed dramatically mixing water and oil... not a prob except later after ripping it down i found the original owner failed to change the oil periodically..leaving me with a sludgy mess to clean up... here are a couple pics i took of the vq40 when i picked it up and the start of the tear down.. i disassembled the vq40de today... its worse then i expected but not as bad as it could of been.. the engine was pulled do to a faulty water pump at 135k miles... it was making a horrible sound.. so now for some pics and a video of the broken water pump bad water pump http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/katillidie/Mobile%20Uploads/th_20150104_130650_zps7mu6woa2.mp4 the block was taken to the machine shop for a little machine work... im goin to use vq35hr head gaskets and head studs so the block needs to be machined for better water flow as instructed by jim wolfs site. here are some examples.. i will show the final product when i get it back before after
  5. katillidie

    ka24de info

    yes i deleted the 4 lines going to one under the intake runners and just ran a hose from the pcv valve to a oil catch can so there is no longer oil getting into my intake....
  6. so with the demise of my head gasket on my 2000 frontier ka24de i decided to look into swapping the current frontier head for a s14 head.. not necessary i just wanted to see if it could be done since i had it laying around.. along with the install of two s-chassis exhaust cams. (poor mans cam swap) usually i do 248/248 but since i only had a set of 92 cams 240/248 and a set of s14 232/232 i opted to try out the 248/232 swap... now the issue i had and what other people have had is nissan decided to change the chain from double row to single row along with re positioning the intake cam dowel to sit at 12 o'clock to match the exhaust cam which screws everything up... so if u are installing a stock intake cam from another ka24de 91-97 then u follow JWT diagram but if u are installing an exhaust cam on the intake side u need to follow my edited diagram to move the timing marks a total of 8 teeth.. if u did it correctly the first cam lobe will look exactly opposite the exhaust cam... they will be facing away from each other... now u can use a intake cam ie the stock frontier intake cam on the exhaust side instead of getting a s14 exhaust cam but my brain was hurting enough and i didn't want to think about it anymore.. you want to get the engine cyl #1 TDC compression stroke.. if ur stock chain is still painted yellow like mine was this is great u can use those marks.. you don't need to bother marking the chain and gears current location because the engine is at tdc, so u can use the original marked links... what i did was remove both cams and install the s14 232 exhaust cam exactly how u would install a stock exhaust cam... then take the chain and match up the exhaust cam gear and timing mark to the 2 o'clock position. Then the idler gear timing mark 6 o'clock position.. install the 248 ex cam on intake side.. on the single row gear there is a mark on the left of the dowel and a mark on the right of the dowel. The mark to the right of the dowel will be the timing mark u will use. this will be positioned on the 10th link from the exhaust cam colored link, being #1.. The tenth link is the one directly after the painted link on on the intake side. #10 on edited pic.. if u have done this correctly the new intake cam lobe should be facing 9 o'clock and the exhaust cam lobe should be facing 3 o'clock. now the fun time i had of figuring out which cam was what. lol nissan again being weird changed the cam colors around.. 91-94 green intake orange exhaust 95-98 orange intake green exhaust both intake cams the dowel is aligned with the first cam lobe at 12 o'clock. now if ur like me who had a few sets of s-chassis cams laying around but had no idea which was which. get out ur digital micrometer start measuring the lobes and follow this link for specs... actually pretty easy http://forums.nicoclub.com/ka24de-cams-specifications-t169323.html original JWT frontier diagram for intake cam install on intake side edited JWT diagram for 91-97 exhaust cam on intake side i only took a few pics since i was in a time crunch but here are a few.. stock cams and colorod links head removed arp head studs installed s14 cylinder head installed 91-94 s13 248 exhaust cam (intake side). 95-98 s14 232 exhaust cam (exhaust side) disregard white paint marks and colored links not lined up.. i rotated the engine by hand after install to make sure there was no binding short clicp running open throttle body http://vid144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/katillidie/Mobile%20Uploads/20141128_180910_zpssakqeado.mp4
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