patrowan

I have XP, IE7. There is no password box, just user name on main page. When I went to post a log in screen came up with both boxes. hope this helps.

I'm interested in the axle $30.00 would be great. Could you give me a measurement, so I know it's the same width.

As I said I got it out of a jy. I had it out yesterday trying to straigthen it. It was bent in two places. Right at the bearing and about six inches back from the spline end. I managed to straigthen the spine end (smaller easier to get at), but the flange end was a no go. There's about .015 tir flange run out and about .010 tir register diameter run out. I shimed the hat to take out the flange run out, but can't do much with other run out.

I'm actually not sure what year the rear end is out of. It's in my 521, but I got it years back out of a jy. It was just laying on the ground. I know that its wider than the 521 and I thought that the 78 and 79's were wider than the early 620's. I drove it for years, then when I put on the disc brakes I discovered the axle shaft was bent. I searched for info on the rear axle widths (which I thought I had found before) but couldn't find now. Any help would be appreciated. Pat ps I posted this under part wanted where it belongs, but couldn't figure out how to delete this posting.

I'm in socal (simi valley) and I need a straight (no flange runout, .002 max). I would prefer something local (100 mi.), but i'm willing to pay shipping. I believe that a 78 will also work. Thanks Pat

I'm in socal (simi valley) and I need a straight (no flange runout, .002 max). I would prefer something local (100 mi.), but i'm willing to pay shipping. I believe that a 78 will also work. Thanks Pat

One last try before I toss everything (sorrry I'll try to watch more closely).I switched to disc brakes and I have both front and rear drum setups. I live in so. cal. (Simi Valley) and the parts are way to heavy to send. If some one local wants the stuff, it's their's. The brakes all were working fine when I switched. There are extra cyclinders and drums and the fronts include everything from the dog bone out (new wheel bearings about 40k ago). I hate to just throw the stuff away, so if your close let me know. patrowanmail@yahoo.com

I switched to disc brakes and I have both front and rear drum setups. I live in so. cal. (Simi Valley) and the parts are way to heavy to send. If some one local wants the stuff, it's their's. The brakes all were working fine when I switched. There are extra cyclinders and drums and the fronts include everything from the dog bone out (new wheel bearings about 40k ago). I hate to just throw the stuff away, so if your close let me know. patrowanmail@yahoo.com

The marks on the thread dial (there are usually 8, 4 larger and numbered, and 4 smaller unlabeled in between the number marks) are starts for various thread pitches (tpi). If your chasing (cutting) a thread that is divisable by 8 (8,16,24 etc) you can start (close half nuts, pull the lever) on any mark. If it's a odd (5,7,9 etc) or even (2,4,6 etc) then start on a numbered line. If it's a half thread (4 1/2, 3 1/2 etc) then start on either 1 or 3, or 2 or 4. Finally (it's already more info than wanted) if it's a quarter thead (2 1/4, 1 1/4 etc) start on the same number every time. If it's to much to bother with, then just always start on the same number. Some lathes don't have the dial and so the lever can only be engaged in one spot per revolution of the lead screw. This makes for slower, but safer threading. Hope that answers the question. Pat

NO problems with alternator, it's a couple inches from the manifold. The first one lasted about 350,000 miles was still working fine bearing just got noisy.

I made a right angle bracket out of aluminum (you could probably use a piece of 2 in channel) that bolts to two holes on the side of the block. I think they were for the ac but not sure. I made another right angle bracket for the tension arm that bolts to a hole right below the distributor.

I put a radiator out of a 87 PU (D21) with a v6. I don't know if that would be enough cooling for the V8 but is way more than enough for the V6 (temp always at thermostat cracking point). I had to trim a little of sheet metal and lower the frame front crossmember. I can't tell from the picture if your water pump is in about the same place, but it looks close.

I also added a bumper stop (1/4-20 or 6mm threaded stud) from some car (who knows where they came from), on both sides near the front. I just drilled a hole and tacked a nut (welder required but jb might work) on. This way I could adjust them so hood matched fenders. This did more to keep the hood from shaking then anything else.

I took the hood off, turn it over, put a little weight (bout 10lbs.) on the braces. Then ran a bead of silicone coulk along the braces, both sides. Let it set over night and it's held for years. You can get the bumpers on EB or Datsun Restorations.