WellBilt Kustoms

Thanks alot! I really appreciate it! There's no better feeling then someone commenting on something you really spent alot of time and put alot of heart into. Look forward to working on your ride!

Soon as I get into my shop tomorrow, I'll post up some updated pics. Wife took the camera today, and I wasn't able to take any of the finished up product.

Aluminum is lighter, but were not talking about making a 10 foot bar here. The difference in weight from the aluminum to steel in something this size is about the weight of all the hardware. I understand what your trying to say, but in this situation, it really doesn't affect it as far as weight goes. But thanks for all your input on this along the way.

I sure can. Shoot me over a pm or an email and I'd be happy to talk about it with you. Thanks Wellbiltkustoms@aol.com

I appreciate your input. One thing I will not do is compromise the quality of my work to sell more product, or to sell it cheaper to get more sold. I would rather sell 10, and continue to make top quality stuff, then sell 50 and have people say it looked crappy, and didn't hold up.

I'm not trying to come off as hostile either. I did ask for everyone's opinion, and I do appreciate all of your honest opinions. Main concern It seems is the cost. I will adjust that! I did say i was testing the waters. I just want to make sure everyone who is saying this person has this for this much, and i saw this bar for this much is compairing apples to apples. Alot of the cheaper bars that are thrown together are mig welded, and are thin as paper!

Pick up some materials and have at it buddy! Let me know how much time you spent after its all finished, and what your total costs were after you take into consideration the metal, the hardware, the cost of electricity to run your equipment, welding gas, welding rod, grinding discs, paint, tabs, ect. ect.

All I really have to say is no one is making you purchase it, so for you to say I have some balls for asking what I am is inappropriate.

Your comment about not being able to fit the nut because its missing in the picture is wrong. I would appreciate it if you would get your facts straight before you make a negative comment about my product.

It really doesn't need to be all aluminum. Just because "most" strut bars are made of aluminum doesn't mean that this is the only option. I have made some before from Stainless steel. The nut was missing in the picture only because I was getting ready to remove it. Everything is easily installed and removed with simple tools.

It does take me a couple hours to make these though. Tig welding does take some time. Much longer then Mig welding. But look at the end result of it. And everything has to fit extremely tight in order to weld it up. The plates are all plasma cut, which need to be cleaned up afterwards.

I actually specialize in roll cage building, and I would really like to know where you can get an SCCA roll bar built, installed, and painted for $300. For it to be SCCA approved, it would have to be constructed from DOM tubing, or Chromoly. Here where I'm at, the cheapest I've been able to find DOM tubing for is just over $4.25/Ft. A Simple rollbar with a diagonal bar and rear legs would be at least 20 feet of material. That's $85 just for the tubing alone.

WOW, I totally didn't expect this to turn into a huge debate. Well, as stated in my first post, this is a proto-type strut bar, and I'm really just testing the water to see what you all think of it, and see how many if any of you are interested in one. First off I have to appologize because the pictures I posted are of the bar un-finished. I had left it in the car un-finished for the owner to see what its basically going to look like. And I just snapped a few quick pics while I had the car here. The ends are capped off, and the bar is painted. I am going to attempt to answer all of your questions, and address all concerns. And I am a little flexible as far as a price goes. What would you all say its worth? Keep in mind that this is 100% Tig welded, all mounting plates are 1/8" thick, and the hardware is grade 8. All holes where hardware goes through have steel sleeve inserts in them, and I will paint the plates and bars whatever color you like (long as I can get it in a can) I'm not trying to screw anyone over, and I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks Jimmy WellBilt Kustoms

Its definately functional. I decided to use rectangle tubing because I wanted it to look different as well as be beefy without affecting any hood clearance issues.

I'm just testing the waters to see if there is anyone interested in having me make a few more of these custom strut bars. I had fabbed this one up for a member on here, and I have one other person that wants one. If your interested in getting one, let me know. If I can get 10 or more orders, I will do a group buy, and lower the price a bit. These are custom hand fabbed from carbon steel, and are 100% TIG welded. All hardware is grade 8. The strut mounting plates are 1/8" steel plate, and completely cover the top of the struts. The bar itself is 1"X2" rectange tubing, and 1"X1" square. The holes drilled in the tubing for the hardware have steel sleeves in them for increased strength. The rear firewall bracket is easily accessed with the wiper cowl removed. This strut bar is very rigid, and should decrease body roll and chassis flex significantly! I can finish the plates and bars any way you'd like. Having them painted is included in the price. Chrome, anodized, or powder coat finish is extra. The strut bar in the picture has gold painted mounting plates, with grinded tubes which are clear coated. I will be selling these strut bars for $250, and will ship at buyers expense. If you have any questions, please shoot me over a pm, or email me at: wellbiltkustoms@aol.com Thanks for looking! Also, if you have any comments or feedback, please feel free to let me know. Pictures: