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jbcottrell

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  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Cars
    71 4-door
  • Interests
    Cars Cars and Cars

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  1. Great. Thanks guys. I must have gotten one that was bent! I can't take a pic because I already returned it. I will order one from another source. Any suggestions?
  2. Is there a difference between fuel pumps for L16, L18, L20B? I have a 510 with a W53 head and L20B block. I ordered a fuel pump for a 510 not thinking this through. The arm on the fuel pump I got has an actuation arm the seems too short, or curved up too sharply. Is it bent? Or just plain wrong? Thanks in advance!
  3. Not the rotors. Is there a visual clue on the hub to differentiate Z or ZX?
  4. The bolt pattern is correct for both the wheel and the rotor to the hub. They are not 240Z because they are not scalloped. They might be 260 or 280Z. Is there any visual difference between a 280Z and a ZX?
  5. Here are some pics. Never mind. I tried to post pics but they didn't work.
  6. Unfortunately I can't post a picture from my phone. The studs have to be in the right position in the hub. That's dictating the bolt pattern. Maybe the problem is with the rotor. I'm going to try a different manufacturer tomorrow.
  7. Yep. The problem is I don't have any old parts. I'm putting this together for my 510. I got struts from T3, new 280Zx rotors from WorldPac, used hubs from eBay and I still need nuts, washers and cotter pin. Turns out the wheel bearings are the same as Porsche 911. I got caliper brackets from the Eagle Rock swap meet and rebuilt ZX calipers from IMC. Yes, it's quite a mishmash! So, I know the rotors are correct since they came from a reliable parts house. The 911 bearings work great. The hub (from eBay) may be a different model. Could they be 280Z?
  8. My new rotors do not seat against the eBay bought hubs I have. I suspect the hub is wrong. Anybody have any experience? You can feel them lock in against the back of the wheel studs but then the rotor mounting bolt holes are off.
  9. Hi Guys. Let me preface by saying I already have T3 front struts/coilovers/Konis. They are beautiful but T3 doesn't make Konis for the rear. They only offer KYB AGX and after years of having them on other cars, I would really rather have Konis. Plus they match the fronts. Ground control makes a Koni rear, which are actually cheaper than the KYBs from T3! Any feedback on the 2 brands?
  10. Intake ports look freshly enlarged. Exhaust ports are square
  11. "I believe the w53 is US market smog head with smaller 35mm exhaust ports, but it's a close chamber (less apt to detonation). This head is designed for lower revving and greater torque. With your current engine configuration with a w53 on that Z22 the head is the real restriction point? As for the long header vs stock, I seriously doubt a header would give you any advantage. That being said, port that w53 and open up the valve size, and you'd see a real advantage. No instigating anything though. :rolleyes:" The head has been ported. I can see that when I pulled the carbs and exhaust. I don't know valve sizes though.
  12. It's been recommended that I run a 2 1/4 inch exhaust. Does anyone know what size the stock downpipe is?
  13. I found it very strange that the header had smaller ports than the stock manifold.
  14. Thanks Mike! So basically I need an L20 manifold with a modified (240SX?) downpipe. My manifold says A26 if that means anything. Some background on the motor. The head has been ported, a .500 cam and dual sidedraft Mikunis. Anyone have a suitable downpipe for sale?!
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