porscha356

Good Day all, I have been experimenting with spark plugs....... The car is a 510 with a Rebello 2150cc. street motor. It has twin Mikuni 44's for breathing. Dave sent me home with ngk b6es. They worked but were pretty dark upon later examination. He then recommended B7ES and these were better but still not optimal.....light brown around the tip and just a bit over the top of the insulator but dark at the bottom of the insulator well. Car then had some sorting of the carbs, which was done by Dave Prima of Concord, a former Mikuni rep for many years. Dave P worked a bit of magic and the car ran great. Recently, it has started backfiring through the carbs and being hesitant on takeoff after sitting for 4 months. SO, I decided to change the plugs again. Just for grins as I didn't have the correct set for the next colder plug, I temporarily put in some ngk bpr5ea-L-11 from my old 1991 Isuzu Trooper I had lying around, just to see if it started and ran. Much to my surprise the car ran so well I took it for a test drive on back country roads and the difference was amazing.... all the popping and hesitation disappeared. It performed very, very well. I pulled the plugs after a drive of about 18-20 miles to check the color and there was absolutely no carbon fouling at all. But there was no light brown color either. In fact, the plugs seemed clean, but then maybe it didn't have a chance to color up on so short a drive. So, fellow travelers, does anyone have any suggestions for me on how to proceed? Plug type and heat range? Warnings? Advice? Opinions? Let me know. Thanks to the membership. Bob

Datsun Mike, Thanks for your input. As always, you were right on the money with the fuse warning. I replaced them all after the one for the parking lights disintegrated when I removed it. I had checked the voltage across the fuses first thing, in trying to figure out the problem, it was OK. I should have known if everything was fine beforehand it must have been a simple solution as to why there was no current. My other mistake was not looking at the wiring diagram to determine current in and current out of the headlight switch. I found current at the switch from the larger gauge, white w/red stripe wire and falsely assumed it was the only supply. Therefore, I thought the switch was bad because it wouldn't ohm out through the first pull (parking lights) as it was not wired to do so. I also misinterpreted the fact that when I applied power at the switch from another source, to the green/white stripe wire, all the running lights worked. That only reinforced my first assumption that the switch was faulty. All in all, I have concluded that when it comes to electricity, I am not well grounded........

Good Day, Everyone, I have a problem that has vexed me for a few days now and I can't seem to find the answer in the datsun forums. First off, everything worked before I removed the instrument panel to re-install the factory tach bulb harness that had fallen out and was now lighting my shoes at night. Couldn't install the bulbs into the tach while it was under the dash and later discovered that the plastic around the hole had broken in several places and couldn't retain the bulb harness. So......I proceeded to glue a copper washer in place that would accept the harness. That problem was fixed but when I put everything back the car would not start........... Went on the site and discovered the tach needed to be wired in series with the ignition and that polarity might be a problem. Reversing the white wires on the tach worked and the car started. However, the dash, running lights, and high beams would not light. At this point I checked the fuse box, continuity, and ohmed out the fuses, then looked behind the dash for anything I might have loosened or forgotten to re-connect. The headlight switch was next, I pulled it and ohmed the contacts out...........got nothing on the first pull and low beams on the second. Next, I checked for power to the switch, it was OK. Then, going around the switch, I applied power from another source to the wire that powers the dash and running lights. All worked. The high beams however, did not work. Thinking the switch was bad I took it apart to see the innards. Simple, electro-mechanical device which looked good but I could not get it to switch on the first pull. So........I ordered a new headlight switch, original brand new Datsun part. It arrived yesterday and guess what? It ohms out the same as the old switch and when hooked up doesn't work. So.........I hooked up a simple, off-on toggle switch from a lawn mower and the dash and parking lights worked but the high beams did not. This car has not been butchered by anyone, the wiring is stock and not modified except for the installation of an internally regulated alternator and the omission of the voltage regulator. I am the second owner and have never really had any serious electrical problems in the 36 years I have owned the car. Any help out there would be appreciated. Thanks.

Just spoke with Meridian Auto Parts who rebuilt the steering box. They indicated they put only "hi temp" grease in all boxes they rebuild, the same you buy at any auto parts store, red, high temp grease. Been doing this for 40 years they say............... The box came back with a yellow push in plug as my old plastic cap was DOA. They say I need a new vented cap to operate the box as yellow one was only for shipping. Any comments out there in Datsun land?

Just got my steering box back from Meridian Auto Parts in San Diego. They rebuilt it in a reasonable time (3 weeks from shipping it off to getting it back) at a reasonable cost $350 including shipping). However, it came back with a plastic plug, not the stock screw in type (mine was toast) but a push in with no vent. It also was packed with pinkish-red grease. I called them today and got several limited answers from customer service: 1. they use grease for shipping purposes, 2. the grease they use is "high temp" and made to be used in the rebuilt box, and 3. The plug is to be used in the application (not just for shipping). There were no instructions or recommended refill grease types enclosed. They promised more information on Monday about how to proceed. I explained to Customer service about the manual requiring gear oil of a certain rating.........they're looking into it. All this aside..... there is a grease out there called "cornhead grease". It is a self leveling grease put into the gear boxes of John Deere corn harvesting machines (other things as well) to produce a "lifetime" fill. Descriptively, it doesn't create grease channels, self levels to encase the gears, and doesn't break down. There is a video on line if anyone is interested.......... I was wondering if this is the same stuff, should I use it or go back to the gear oil?

The motor is a bit more than stock (2150cc) and the cooling lines have been modified (some have been eliminated). I was concerned about the extra heat being generated. First run on the dyno last Thursday was 200.6 hp but it is still being tweaked. I really don't expect more on a street engine as a reliability line needs to be drawn somewhere...... Called a Koyo distributor in CA to inquire about their radiator and he referred me to the Racing Dept. for more information. I have called them three times since yesterday, left my number, but they have not returned my calls. Poor customer relations I would say!

As always gentlemen, thank you for your input. Especially Datsenmike, who takes the time out of his day to help us all out with thorough explanations. It is appreciated. BTW, what Koyo radiator is recommended for my application.....one for a stock L16, an L20B, or some other application. Something that is bolt in hopefully. I will research the (A/C) 610, 710, S10 and A10 radiators to see if they are 3 core. Thanks everyone!

Looking to install a new motor sometime in the next few weeks and will be needing some cooling for the new baby. Have gotten ideas ranging from rebuilding the stock unit to 3 core (estimate $350), new aluminum from China ($200-250 or so), electric fan with VW radiator (???), or a stock BMW one from a 320i (not sure of the model). Live in California north of San Francisco where it sometimes gets warm (90s to 100s) from May to October, enough so that I don't think the stock radiator will do the job, considering the increased HP. I don't want to cut or modify anything, prefer to use the stock mounts and hook ups as best allowed. Does anyone have any first hand experience to share? Thanks

In response to Len, I too have read most of the articles posted and most involve welding or fabrication of some sort. Regarding the post where only holes are drilled into the original mounting brackets and the e30 seats are simply bolted to them. Well, it's easy, but when you position the seats on the rails they sit up pretty high and it just doesn't look or feel right. I have removed the original brackets, then placed the seats just behind the structural brace. This looks more original but it seems to me that the position of the seat bottom cushion will be too low to operate the controls effectively. In the one post where this is addressed, the one with the black e30 seats, it looks as if he fabricated separate bracket towers for each bolt of the bottom rail, 4 in all. I was wondering if someone has done this without welding brackets into the floor of the car. Also. whether a general height of the individual brackets was used, something that would accommodate more than one body type rather than simply a single driver. I don't mind drilling holes as anchor points, but a permanent, non removable welded platform might create future problems as this car is very original and hasn't been cut in any way. I have owned it since 1980 as the second owner. All the modifications I am doing, from suspension to driveline, are being done with the intention of allowing the car to remain original, at least to the casual observer. I am retaining all the original bits removed, just in case they are needed down the road.

I am attempting to put e30 seats into a 510 without too much hassle, but I do expect some, after all this is another 510 conversion. They are endless....... Does anyone out there have some insight as to the best solution? Seating height, distance from the pedals, attachment to the floor, all are important and need to be considered. I don't want to cut the structural brace (important) that currently is the front mount because a casual placement of the e30 behind it on the floor, at full forward, seemed to allow me plenty of room for pedal adjustment. I am 5'8" and it looks like I can push further back if the seat is mounted just behind the brace. Ride height behind the brace would most likely affect relationship to the steering wheel, hand position and ability to see the gauges and work the controls. It would be nice if another person could adjust things to their liking as well. Of course, the seat needs to be securely fastened to the floor. Can this be done without welding in special mounting towers and the like? Has someone fabricated anything that would work universally? Thanks for any input.

Hi Datzenmike, You work overtime for us. Thanks for all you do!

Hi Datzenmike, A couple of more questions have cropped up since the last post. I was shown dyno work ups on several engines at the shop in Antioch where an L20 is being prepared for my 510. The higher ratio transmission was recommended as better suited for me, personally, and the street in general. That is why I am searching for the 81-83 fs5w71b. I am trying to identify two separate transmissions; the 5 speed in my 510 which, unfortunately, is two hours away in Tracy being suspension upgraded. And a 5 speed at a yard, from which, I was told, was pulled from an 83 MT, non-turbo, 280 zx. I will probably find out for certain next week on the identity of the box in my car. So instead of putting you through this quess work when I can't provide any pictures or even look at the car myself, is asking too much. However, do you know offhand, whether the gearsets from an actual 81-83 fs5w71b long tailpiece zx box will interchange into the short tailpiece version? That would be very beneficial if, in fact, I had a short tail truck tranny in the car now. The yard sent pictures of the "zx" transmission and, according to one of your previous posts, the bolt hole at the top of the bell housing is to the left of the center rib, thus indicating an L series box. Yet it does have the speedo bolt down hole in the 6 o'clock position, indicating a post 1980 manufacture. I have repeatedly asked the yard guy to estimate the first and fifth gear ratios by rotating the input shaft and counting the revolutions but so far, he's not giving it to me. My instructions were: rotate the output shaft 10 times and count the revolutions at the input shaft. If they count 30 + 1/3 in first, good. If they count 7.5 in fifth, good. It takes two guys to make the count easy but methinks I wish for the 49ers to win the superbowl. Probably too much to ask for a $300 part......... Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Datzenmike, More info..... I am looking to buy a long tail fs5w71b at a yard. However, according to one of your previous posts, the bolt hole on the bell housing is one inch to the left. Indicating an L series tranny....does that mean a truck with lower gearing in first? I am looking for the higher ratio fifth of the 81-83 zx tranny and the one at the yard indicates the L series. The speedo cable bolt is at the 6 o'clock position...does that mean manufactured after 1980 and would it have the higher ratio fifth? When the zx trans is put into a 5 ten, does the shifter need to be modified to fit into the middle of the transmission hump? Confused............ I am pretty sure I have a short tailpiece truck tranny already in the car!

Hi Datzenmike, Thanks for your response. I wish I had a picture as the car is now in Tracy having suspension work done. Long story short, I was tasked by the builders to acquire an 81-83 zx box and a lsd (Subaru?) for this 510. I am trying to stay relatively original and tasteful during this update, as this is a very clean, uncut, no rust, second owner car. I was told the box is definitely not a 200sx but probably out of a Datsun truck from the early eighties. The conundrum: is it worthwhile to rebuild the truck box with the lower ratios and not go to all the trouble of finding, then rebuilding, a zx tranny with a more ideal ratio set up? Next question: can the truck box gear ratios be changed cost effectively? I really don't want to do a complete transmission change that involves cutting the driveshaft, relocating the transmission mount, etc., etc., down the line when the car is undergoing an upgrade now. I,m sure that when we pull it out during the drivetrain rework it will reveal itself. But, it was my job to locate a box and if I don't have it to install, then we have a longer delay to completion. Any thoughts?

Good Day all! Trying to identify the 5 speed in a 71 510. I paid to have a 5 speed put in in 1992. Installed used all those years ago, and 200k miles---no trouble. Now, the car is being updated with new suspension and drivetrain and I have been on the search for a 81-83 zx 5 speed to replace it, thinking it was from a 200sx. The issue though is the current 5 speed is not a dog leg. It has a "normal" shift pattern of reverse being to the right and down. The ratios are comfortably close and it seems to handle my tired 1800 with a single weber quite well in fifth at freeway speeds. There seems to be enough torque to push it along even though that engine can't be producing more than a 100hp. There were no drive shaft modifications done in 1992, the tranny bolted right in, with only what the receipt said: "fabricate two plates for mounting". Speedometer hooked up with no problem, at least none that I've noticed over the years. Could this transmission be a short tail piece FS5W71B? Possibly some other transmission? If it is a 71B short, then I don't need to search for a long tail piece model, just rebuild this one and be merrily on my way. It should handle the hp of the new motor, around 200. Anyone have an opinion on this, I would appreciate it.