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srfjay

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  • Location
    san jose
  • Cars
    1971 510 1955 buick
  • Interests
    Cars. Sheet metal work.

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  1. Yes . It is the brass fitting that connects to the rear brake line.
  2. From my research I have seen that fitting on the rear brake line connected to the firewall is some sort of bias for drums. Well I have a wilwood set up all around. Has anyone removed that valve with zero issues? I am going Sr20 and that clearance would help . Plus if I have all disc brakes won't that fitting actually hurt performance sine it was made for drums? Thanks for any help.
  3. Well it does not have to be led . I am just trying to figure out the best solution. This is the only step I am hung up on. I understand how the system works now just trying to figure out the best way around it.
  4. Thanks danial c for the info. It really helps. One last question. If I just install the correct 1.5 watt led bulb were the stock bulb was why would I need the resistor ? Or is the resistor only needed if I use no bulb? What I am thinking of doing is white/red to negative on bulb then green to positive. If I do it this way no need for a resistor correct ? Since I am just switching out the stock bulb for a led.
  5. So as it shows in the graphic it comes from the regulator straight to the bulb. So I am guessing the regulator is only putting out the 1.5 watts on the white/red wire? So I am curious why a resistor would need to be used now but not in its original form. Just trying to understand . I am no wiring expert.
  6. Thank you guys for all he help. I am curious now. How does the stock charging indicator bulb controller the volts? From everything I see there is no stock resistor in place. It just goes white/red to bulb then to green.
  7. Yeah that is what I am stuck on. Knowing the right resistance.
  8. http://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-LEDs-Internal-Resistor/dp/B00RRBWUMG/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1421784582&sr=8-17&keywords=12+volt+resistor&pebp=1421784600314&peasin=B00RRBWUMG Thanks for the help. And this has a built in resistor. That should work for the application correctly?
  9. This kind of explains what I am doing. If I can just add in a indicator bulb that would be good
  10. Yes a voltage gauge. And not that I don't want one just the stock cluster was having issues. And it had a clock so added a tachometer in its place. I could just add another bulb and install it someplace in the dash. Is the build used special in anyway? Or are the indicator bulbs all the same?
  11. Another question, since I do need something between the wires. Would a simple resistor work in place of the bulb?
  12. Interesting. Well I do understand keeping it stock is a good ideal but when I got the car the harness was already hacked. I am just trying to clean it up. I guess I will have to read up a little more on it. Since the cluster was already modified for the new gauges.
  13. I have a 1971 510, the wiring harness was pretty trashed when I got the car so just redoing it. Now from the diagrams it looks like the white/red wire goes to the charge light in the dash then to the green wire to the fuse box. If I am adding gauges and want to remove that dummy light can I just splice the white/red wire directly to the green wire? From the looks of the diagram it seems to be that way but just wanted to double check. Thanks guys.
  14. They are actually 15x8 -14 all four corners. I thought About 9s but felt these were a little more manageable.
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