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MMorris

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  • Location
    Vernonia, OR
  • Cars
    '83 Nissan 720, '93 Geo Metro
  • Interests
    Paleontology, permaculture, rocket stove mass heaters, cooking, general DIY

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  1. MMorris

    z20s carb

    Greetings. I have a similar question. I have a 720 ('83) with a Z20, acquired a few months ago. The truck has been doing what I need for it to do (28 mpg doing light hauling without many hills to climb), but it diesels on shutdown and has taken to idling at around 2100 rpm. To make a long story short, after determining that the problem wasn't (just) aged and leaky vacuum lines, I bought a carb rebuild kit and following the Lugnutz excellent tutorial, began tearing it down. This carb has been worked on before, and several small parts have gone missing. In particular, the screw and brass cap for the throttle shafts is missing, and there are no rubber seals. Might explain the high idle. The anti-dieseling solenoid has a broken spring, and the needle looks very worn. Could explain the dieseling. The accelerator pump lever has no bushing, but it has been bent in such a way as to work okay anyhow. Etc. Oh, and it turns out that the air cleaner is held on to the carb by a nut that isn't a wingnut and isn't quite the right size, and no bolts to the crank case cover... So it seems that my options are to try a significantly more extensive repair, buy a rebuilt carb or buy a Weber. All things considered, repair is not my preferred option. I need a working truck more than I need a new hobby. What are the pros and cons of a rebuilt vs. a Weber? Taking into consideration that I like good mileage and don't need more acceleration/hill-climbing power than I have now. What's a good source for a rebuilt? Is a Weber even an option? I've read that the carb on the Z20's of this vintage is the same as carb on the Z24's. But does that actually imply that a Weber replacement for a Z24 would work, or work well? It would be nice to step past the air cleaner issues, too...
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