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RMP&O

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  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Cars
    Nissan Patrols

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  1. Yes they are Patrol axles, they are C216's. 216mm ring gear. Old school coarse spline, not a CV in the knuckle but rather a "tracta joint" as Nissan called it. Old Land Cruisers have the same thing, known in those circles as a "ball and claw". The engine is a P engine, basically a 4L. Those Warn hubs worth some $$$ and easy to pull. Axle shafts not that hard to pull and also worth a few $$$, same with spindles and hubs. Axle housings not really worth anything and same for the engine if it has been sitting in a field a long time like that. Cheers
  2. Not that hard to find although that one is in great shape. Got to import it though. Ya, got to pay the bills, so clients trucks come first. Cheers
  3. I dig that BJ74 you are doing but think you should do the same thing to this..... https://www.facebook.com/groups/nissanpatrolcolombia/permalink/876081952429280/ Not a lot has happened to the Ute since I last posted. I plated the frame out, used 3/16s on the inner rails and 1/8" on the outer. Beefed up the front frame "horns" and notched them in prep for welding in my front leaf hangers. I finished up the rear PTO box and some dramas with it, it's mounted up for good now on the t-case. Got more parts from Japan, all new hard lines for the IP give it some bling. Drivetrain is sitting in the frame ready for mock up on engine/trans mounts. I just been busy working on other projects for clients so no time for the Ute. Cheers
  4. T-case main drive gear, rear PTO (left) vs normal (right) All dressed up with..... I like alloy that is polished and clear coated so that is what I went with on the PTO boxes. Cheers
  5. Over 6ft of drivetrain! Weighs more than a 510! :rofl: Good thing the Ute is LWB. This being originally an 83 SD33 N?A engine it had an oil filter set up using canister style filters. I dislike those, messy, so I updated this engine with a later style spin on filter housing, bling bling NOS filter. Got a a few of those to last a while. Cheers
  6. The best way to align a clutch, that is if you have a spare input shaft laying around. Found my dump off the turbo. It is stock and benefits can be had from a custom built dump here but this is not really much of the way in mods to the engine or drive train for this project so I will probably just blast this and paint or coat and run it. Cheers
  7. Stoked! After a long test of my patience it is reality. That is the 5spd & t-case for this motor, fully rebuilt and ready to go. Just need to clean and paint them. The clutch is an Excedy Safari Tuff out of Australia that cost me a pretty penny. It is actually suited for the 1999+ Patrol TD42 but matches the 160 Patrol spline count and input shaft diameter so we just drilled the flywheel to suit it and bolted it up. Rock & roll, the wait to build is over, now I just need 48hrs in a day!! Cheers
  8. Yup 60/80 fusion is what I am doing. Got the 80 down to a rolling chassis. Wanting to buy the new motor but holding off for now, a lot of irons in my fire. Old 5.7L is going in a work truck with blown 350 tbi. Got the work truck prepped for the swap over the weekend. Cheers
  9. Ya I did. Pretty good service, real fair for price. Can't commit on how good of work they did yet but it looks good. My only complaint is that they tossed my old/spare parts. I wanted those parts! Cheers
  10. Ya, the 80 is dead but a new truck is being born from it, hopefully powered by a 6.2L L92/94. Pump is done and on the motor for awhile now. Oil pump turned out to be shot so I ordered up a new one from Japan. SD33T is in it's final stages, might be picking it up next week. Cheers
  11. awesome! Want pics. :) I dig resto mods, same here though don't think good trucks or cars should be sacrificed. I got a 77 Patrol pickup I imported from New Zealand. It is rusty, never had an original bed as it was sold back in 77 as a cab & chassis. Pretty good base in my opinion for a resto mod. I had a bunch of 160 series Patrol (1980-87) stuff here in killer shape or built up. So I am using all that. SD33T diesel, 5spd, t-case and axles. I am the same as you, like to go camping and want to do more than 60mph! Cheers
  12. IP, turbo and injectors fully rebuilt and sent off to my machine shop. All up it was only $1650 plus the cost of parts from Japan. Way less than expected so pretty happy about that. Getting exhaust manifold ceramic coated, painting engine blue. Hope to have the motor back in under 30 days. Friggin' diesel motors are damn expensive to play with but I like them and this sucker is going to be mean and sound super sick. Few other goodies showed up from Japan. OEM master vac and the gear I need for the t-case to run the rear PTO. Also got a few t-case gaskets and new 4wd light switch and back up light switch. Not much left to purchase to build the rolling chassis. New master cylinder and a steering box are the main items left that will cost any money. Otherwise I am about good on parts. I got a Patrol 160 series steering box here in LHD I could use in the build but it is kind of funky. Thinking I may go with an 80 or 100 series Land Cruiser steering box. Last expensive purchases will be UMP air box, custom radiator and front mount intercooler. I will deal with all that when I am building the chassis. Itching to get this shit going, come on machine shop! Cheers
  13. Nearly a 6 week wait for the injection parts to come in via Amayama. Once they shipped though, all of 5 days from Japan to me and that is snail mail! Just sent the injection pump parts off to the re-builder in Salt Lake City yesterday. Cheers
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