77Adam77

Cool thank you! So I'm looking for either a fan for a 620 or z pump and fan matched pair. And if I get the z Pump and fan I might have to cut out space from the shroud.

Ive searched and the one post i read didnt totally answer this question so here it goes.. I got 77 620 and my fan blade is cracked all the way through between every blade. its only a matter of time before it flies apart. its a seven blade. apart from that i got no clue what i need to be looking for. cant seem to find out the important stuff while its connected to everything so im counting on you guys. i got one guy who has an 8 blade he said he bought for a ka setup. this is what he said "The mounting to the water pump is 2-3/8” across, center to center which is a standard Datsun mounting. The mounting of the fan to the clutch is 5-1/4” across, center to center. The overall diameter is 16-1/2”. do i need a new water pump too? would this guys fan work?

i tried to get my brother to snag that. he lives in annapolis. pretty sure he thinks my truck is a joke. one day he will become datsunized. it must happen.

this is awesome.where are those wood backed speakers attaching to?

i have my eye on a reman hitachi carb that fits a 79 620. my haynes say there is some differances from 77-79 and earlier than 77 models, but i was mainly wondering if i could slap this 79 one onto my 77 without having to change anything...hooking up all my smog stuff btw. any connections or vacuum ports on the 79 that would need to be modded to work on my 77? thanks in advance guys. 77 620

My main concern is that they wouldn't function from being clogged. As long as they do their job I'm happy! They don't have any smog laws here in Clarke county georgia. But might be Cali bound soon...

So I searched and could find anybody with this problem or question....About to reconnect all my smog stuff on my 77. It's been disconnected for who knows how long (I've driven it three years like this don't know bout before). I'm wondering if I can expect those air injection tubes going into the exhaust manifold to be completely clogged with carbon build up..? On my list of stuff to get in working condition so far is Air filter for air pump Air pump Air check valve Egr valve Anti backfire valve Thermal vacuum switch (also called ported vacuum switch) Don't know if anything on the aircleaner is working (idle compensator temperature sensor)... This is more a preemptive troubleshoot while I get any parts refurbished/bought as the hitachi needs a full rebuild I'll have time to learn and find out what to be expecting... Ps thanks for helping out over the years never needed to really ask any questions till recently just been lurking in the shadows. Oh yeah heres a oic for the hell of it. I'm on right. EdwardK in left.

It was fun but I'd do it slightly different next time. Do NOT use bondo bumper repair. Use SEM bumper repair. They sand totally different. My first coat on the cracks was with bondo bumper repair and it was soooo hard to work with. SEM mixes wayyyy better and sands easier too.

thanks! just looked at your thread...is yours a cap? theres hairline cracks a day later in mine from wedging it into place. might seal those up but if it keeps happening just from driving vibrations ill go with the cap i guess...that restore was a pain in the asssssssss.

Put the restored dash I been working on in finally.

Boss decided to move office today.

I have a question to add then. I would LOVE to keep my hitachi but how and where can one get a real rebuild kit for these? And I hear everyone always saying they rebuild them and they still run rich? Is this mainly due to desmog? Or just irreparable aging factor? Tryin to put all my smog stuff back together to get my truck running like factory floor but don't want to bother if any and all hitachis just can't cut it after a period. I do lots of stop go driving as well as highway and love how perfectly gradual it steps in. Plus moving to Cali or somewhere I gotta get it running for the inspections every once in while...

PS I tried ordering all four from nissanparts.cc and a month later just got one. The factory fronts are curved a bit because they fit right before the hood bends I believe. The backs are straight. That's my 2 cents. Hope I could help. It is really worth to do the bolt on method you can reuse them if you need to do any body work.

I bought the thick ones and had the same problem as everyone else with them breaking. Contacted seller and he said nobody ever had problems. I said cool I'm gonna make this work. Drilled a hole out where nipple broke off. Cut some bolts short enough and that were a little thicker than what I drilled out so when I screwed it in it would bite into the rubber. You can reach under the fender easy front and back to tighten them in. I was scared of two things: 1)That the bolts would just sheer through the cheap ass rubber right away 2) That they would eventually sheer through from vibration and because my hood fit nice and tight when I closed it down on them. It worked great been driving it all over the place daily for about six months no problem all four nice and snug and no glue on my fenders! Fully removable. I'll post pictures if need be tmrw or something. It's worth buying them and doing. Hood don't rattle. Looks and operates like originals.

Fuck photobucket