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That's a huge help Daniel, I really appreciate it. I got the passenger fender off and i will see how it goes. Chris

Hey guys, after months away from my 510 project I am finally back in the garage and I am now mounting the doors on my '72 two door. I have no idea how to align the doors. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get the doors aligned well? Should I remove the front fenders and align those later? I Have searched here but couldn't find anything. I don't understand how laying inverted over the seats, trying to reach impossibly positioned hinge bolts (where you cant get any light to, to see what you are doing) how you you are supposed to get these doors aligned. I rebuilt the hinges so they aren't sagging. Anyways I already got enough paint chips trying on my own so I thought I would ask here. I am stumped.Thanks.Chris

Thank you guys for the input. CarterB those images were very helpful. Based on some other info I found I believe they accidentally set me a swaybar for an SR set up instead of a standard 510 bar. I will email Quickor and see if they can send me the correct one.

Hey guys, I purchased a Quickor front sway bar about 3 years ago and I am finally getting around to install it and I, for the life of me, can not get it to fit. So the bar has the big dip in it to clear the engine but I can't tell if the middle of the bar should be above or below the plate that sticks out in front of the front cross member. I can get it above the plate but I can't rotate it up enough to attach the end links with out the bar hitting the crossmember. If I go below the crossmember then I am no where close to making it fit. Am I missing something obvious? Does anyone have any photos of how others are mounted? I have searched around some but I can't find much besides people that have made standoffs and attached the sway bar below the lower control arms.

Well I too am going through this issue. I have an L20b with an exedy 225 clutch. According to this thread http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=27619&p=239662&hilit=Throw+out#p239662 The distance from the fly wheel to the throw out sleeve tabs where the forks attach should be +/- 92mm. I measured my set up and I am just shy of 91mm so I should theoretically be good. When I test fit my transmission (with slave cylinder removed) on to my engine the clutch arm has a little movement until the transmission is about an 1/8" from being tightened to the engine. When the tranny is completely bolted down there is no movement in the clutch arm so I am assuming the throw out bearing is resting on the clutch pressure plates and possibly applying some pressure. Is this normal or should I get the next shortest throw out sleeve which would be 8mm shorter?

Thank you guys, this is a huge help. I will it order from them, and i have never heard of Pierce Manifold so it's good to learn about a reputable shop. Cheers

Crashtd420 that is a good point - I currently don't have the oil pump or spindle shaft installed. I was planning on installing the oil pan first so I could fill the oil pump with oil before installing since I didn't want the oil to pour out when I inverted the motor but I will test fit the pump and spindle first to make sure everything is good, and isn't binding. Thanks Mike for the clarification, it's hard to tell but the motor is flipped upside down. In hindsight my picture wasn't very clear and lead to more confusion than was necessary.

Thank you everyone for all the input I really appreciate it. Sorry for the confusion, this photo was taken with the engine upside down on an engine stand and this is where the timing cover meets the oil pan side of the block. When I assembled this I put a new head gasket on, torqued the head down then put the timing cover on which didn't seem to push up or deflect the head at all. I didn't notice an issue until I flipped the block to put the oil pan on. The motor still seems to spin fine and the crank doesn't seem to be binding in the timing cover but I will pull all the spark plugs later and verify this. So if that checks out I think I am just going to put the oil pan on with a little extra sealant near that joint, cross my fingers and pray to the Datsun gods that it will all work out. With the luck I have been having with this engine it probably won't at which point I will be back, and you can all laugh at me, and we can try again. Any last thoughts or concerns before I do this in about 7 hours?

Thanks Lockleaf. I'm not sure if the deck has been milled since this block came with the motor that came in the car. It doesn't look like it but who knows. I thought about that but if that had been the case the timing cover would want to stick up higher then the deck but since the head was on first I guess it could push the timing cover down but shouldn't the dowels keep it in place or is there a little wiggle room on the dowels? I'm just thinking out loud.

Hey guys I just installed the timing cover on my engine rebuild and when I flipped the motor over to put the oil pan on I noticed that the timing cover sits a little proud of the block. The timing cover sticks up a bit more on one side and at it's worse it sticks up about the width of a razor blade ~.015". The timing cover needed to be persuaded to go on a bit but it wasn't too much trouble and seems to align with the head just fine. Also the dowels seem to be centered in their holes on the front of the timing cover. It looks worse in the picture than it does in real life. It's hard to see but your nail catches on it when you drag your finger across. Obviously this is not ideal but can I run it like this with a new gasket and some Right Stuff sealant or am I screwed? Anyone ever seen this before? Is there something I screwed up?

Hey guys, I want to add this gas pedal in to my 510 but it doesn't have the ball to connect to the throttle linkage, and the ball that is on my current gas pedal is riveted (for lack of a better term) on so I can't swap it out. Anyone know where t get a replacement ball that screws on? Thanks.

Thanks again Mike. A little carb cleaner, followed by some good ol' fashion elbow grease, followed by a thorough blasting of the hose got the oil pick up cleared out.

How do I remove the quarter window latch pin? The pin I am referring to is the pin that attaches the latch to the window frame bracket. I bought a new latch but I can't get the old pin out. If i was to press the pin one way it would hit the frame, but I can't push from the other direction because the window frame is in the way if that makes sense. Thanks. It's the pin that goes through the open hole in the pic below

Thanks guys, and putting the bolts in with the cut off heads for alignment is a good tip. So I went to clean my oil pick up last night and I got the screen clean but some little chunks have fallen in to the inside of the oil pick up. Anyone have any good ideas on how to get the debris out of there?

Hey guys I am trying to get a my L20 rebuild wrapped up and installed with a 5 speed into my 510 but I have a few questions first. 1) Should I install the engine first or the transmission first or should I install them as a single unit? What is easiest? 2) My valve cover has this hard sealant on the edge of the internal baffle that is kinda flaking off and It doesn't take much while picking at it to have it break off. Obviously I don't want hard chunks falling on to the valve train so can I remove this stuff and if so will I need to seal it with something else? If i should reseal it what should I use? thanks