Billychar

Thanks to datzenmike for the multiple re-entry's of this timing information about the Nissan NAPS-Z . You know the ones. I have had to do work on these motors so often over the fifteen years I've been driving them. Having such limited knowledge I loathe the mistakes made when reflecting on them. From Z16 four sparkers to S110 Silvia with Z18 turbo, 8 plug efi models I probably made the worst combo each time to keep rolling on the road. Over the last (11) years I've driven a navara QD 21 ex JDM 1600. For a time I had a Z22 head on it which was interesting but not great. So over the last 8-9 years www. has been the location to refresh my memory of the distributor install, setting the cam chain up and any other tech stuff I want to double check or put back right. And it has totally been Mikes replies that hold the information on this forum and other locations where your posts are seen. Those that save my ass each and every time. Repeatedly I have had the head on/off. Dizzy out. Oil pump off to work behind the timing cover. Although now somehow, the information and links from my search engine to all these records published to assist our brethren L,Z,KA owners are becoming illusive. The answers are taking extensive effort to locate of late, but there has to be more instances (of what I'm searching for) than ever previously? But it is still here. Anyway thanks to datzenmike for the numerous saves where I have not had to type a question any time. I just get online knowing You're the guy who has put this up all over our network to help us keep these things pumping. The truck is now Z22 bored for KA-e24 pistons and a stock head. 5 speed column shifted. Truly reliable but I do patch up whatever shows wear and get her choochin like Nippon anticipated back in 1986. None of my chains have had a shiny or marked link anyplace. I just set as accurate as possible the cam dwell position at TDC. Thats my ZERO. Backing the crank back 90 degrees then rotating forward to 10 BTDC set the spark static and it'll fire up and go anywhere. Of course it's really the time to attach the timing light and set the advance to 9 degrees BTDC with vacuum advance plugged off. The smog crap got ejected a long time ago but it did not really assist the way it performed. Moving right along the hiccups were slowly sorted . Mostly some minor informational details made a great difference to moving forward or having a pile. A shed, as the English say. And you are the guy that puts out the easy to decipher straight story on them all, Datsun and early Nissn I hope this is not a gesture you find awkward Mike ? You are 'The Man' buddy. Thank you.

Yea!

I had a d21 with Z16 carb in. Got a Z22 and some cheap KA24DE pistons & rings. The coating was removed from the dished piston tops when cutting them down 1.4 mm for clearance . We floated the small end pins in the Z22 rods, & overbored the cylinders 0.078" ,decked the block and surfaced the head . I got an aluminium flange made for a Weber 36 dcnvh (12-100) synchronous carb. [ex.Maserati bi-turbo] and using a hole saw opened up the standard mount on the intake and had the new flange welded on top . A fellow fitted the flywheel into his lathe and followed my instructions removing cast from the edge behind the ring gear and from the two faces until we got down to sufficient lip to stop the ring gear at zero and weight to 12 Ib's . I was chomping at the bit to score a good cam for it also, but it ran for 18000 Km with no trouble apart from it had to be stalled when switching off once warm or it pre-ignites or compression ignites ,running on with terrifying sounds and events including running backward in a forward gear one time . Performance increase was quite impressive but it wouldn't rev over 4000 very smoothly. At low revs it pulled like a horny schoolboy although some discretion was required with throttle to prevent pinking down low. Coupled to the 4.88:1 diff ratio and being a truck it did everything I could expect of it. I have a KA24E cylinder head and was such temptation to bolt that on top but for the timing chain length and questions over the oil drains back to sump clashing with coolant passages. The bottom line is you can do the Z22 and oversize pistons from KA or Z24. Also the V6 range of Nissans has good options for pistons. (2 mm O/size) No trouble with cooling , gasket leaks or blowing. Otherwise however the L head or turbo the Z , because what you read about the restriction gets worse with cubic capacity and none of my Z's N.A. performed despite tinkering with the standard engine. I've had five with z engines, Gazelle S110 , Sylvia turbo , navara single cab flatdeck, and two crew cab wellside trucks . All went suitably but the Z22 hybrid was the pinnacle of the group as far as performance and economy goes.

most likely an earth problem where the earth wires in the loom are connected by a ring of metal crimped around the wires at a junction. Fuel is the least likely cause of the symptoms described. It is a problem listed in factory bulletin to the agencies. It can also cause erratic idle performance and other poor performance and running conditions. Essentially a fault when resistance increases in the low tension circuit of ignition system. A problem in D21s' also. Figured I'd post a reply to this OLD post for ruture reference of those who may be facing the same problem.

Hey man I find it surprising you are still bashing your head against a wall with this. We always assume things to be complete right. But you have a shitbox motor that has been played about with. A new Weber is a darn good start. NO half measure will do and all engines are fundamentally alike. Get those bolts out so they can no longer be your problem. You should buy a set of rings and hone the bores yourself, seeing you are in a pinch for money? You do not know if there are oil rings still in the motor yet? Am I right? The block surface has to ALSO be flat and CAN be out of true after overheating . (thats why the head needs work-overheated). Overheating ruins the ring tension and they wont seal. Now if the head is fixed but the block is crook the seal between them may fail, so check the deck! Check the compression pressures is a very good start also, but you start a job like this then may as well do a proper freshen up. Main bearings and conrod bigend shells might go a new round but usually set a new set of big end shells with rings.