DrRocks0

quick and dirty ebay search http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-56mm-aluminum-radiator-for-NISSAN-DATSUN-510-610-710-720-L20B-Manual-/281852177610?hash=item419fb2ecca:g:7McAAOSw~bFWQIFn&vxp=mtr

I already have the brackets with normal bushings installed. I'm having weird dog walking going on when I accelerate hard. I think the subframe bushings are control arm bushings are wasted.

Ah ha! Found where that reference came from.. These adjusters are designed to be used with the original style rubber control arm bushings or mono-ball bushing replacements. If used with polyurethane bushings, any camber-toe adjustment from stock position will cause the bushings to bind. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:datsun-510-rear-cambertoe-adjusters&catid=22&Itemid=22

I'm not sure if I am getting my information confused but I thought I read somewhere that running the rear camber/toe brackets like these and replacing the rear control arm bushings with poly causes an issue with the bushing binding or something. Is that true? The SR has proved to be too much powa for the 48 year old control arm bushings :P

You probably already know this but if not I'll save you a major headache. If you use the ARP main studs you are going to have to have the crank line honed. They distort the mains enough that it will eat a bearing in under 1k. Also when you send the motor in make sure if the block has been decked they deck the timing cover to fit. I've seen it when the timing cover is normal height, block decked and the #1 piston blows the headgasket into the timing cover area and destroys the motor. If you have any questions message me on here, I'm pretty familiar with the KA and SR's :D

I too run a CX radiator with their shrouds and fan on my 510, granted I have a SR swap but its basically the same thing. Runs cool no issues. The only thing I would do is swap out the cap they give you. For some reason they sent a 1.8 Bar cap while stock cap pressure is 1.3. If you're running the stock head gasket it can cause some issues, or you will find every crappy coolant hose in your car as they slowly start leaking :) but ya go CX, cheap and reliable.

I should take a picture of my input shaft. We cut the tube back all the way to the firewall to lengthen the intermediate shaft and decreasing the angle on the top u joint. We cut down the output shaft coming from the steering column to keep the threads in the column in good contact. We also machined and moved the connection at the rack down closer to the rack to get the most angle we could. The picture I posted was when I was doing a motor swap, not the rack install. Changing the angles made a big difference.

68 crossmember MR2 rack.

Ya it might just be easier to try to repair what the idiot who swapped the motor damaged. He took the entire SR20det fuse block and integrated it into the car. So now there are 2 relays that control headlights/tail lights, the head light circuit also powers the electric fans. He monkeyed around with the high beams and made them to a switch under the dash and replaced them with yellow fog lights, the crank position on the ignition switch doesn't work, its triggered by a switch on the dash as well. I should post pictures before I start lol. I have a wiring specialties sr20det to datsun harness coming that replaces all the hacked up wiring on engine and cleanly installs the engine to the body, I just need to clean up the body wiring. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/datsunsr20.html

Is there a source for Datsun 510 replacement harnesses? I did some searching but didn't come up with much. I don't want to go through painless again, their harnesses were not worth the $$$ that a friend of mine shelled out for one of their kits.

Interesting radiator spot

My setup early MR2 rack, 510 tie rod ends fit.

Stock fuel lines for me. I'll eventually do the cx ones. They follow the stock ones just larger diameter and take an fittings.

Cause the stock 6 speed is garbage, the s13 is cheaper and doesn't have the VTC issues that the s15 does. Also I would totally do brake upgrades at the same time as the swap, you're gonna need them :D

I have a built SR, the only thing I regret is popping 2 diffs, 1 transmission and not having enough traction. As for install, I would recommend the wiring specialties harness instead of dealing with the cut harness from japan. If you are going to be running mods that others run ( eg 740 cc injectors, t28, 264 cams ) just go with a jim wolf tune. Anything more go full standalone. just my 2 cents