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redskunk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Cars
    1973 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Cars, girls and food.

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  1. Rebuilt the carburetor. And got it tuned and running. Repainted the valve cover. Here is the carburetor all cleaned up and reassembled with new gaskets.
  2. You can just make them. Its easy. Use your existing plastic locks and cut the top with a dremel. And cap it off with a empty 9mm shell. Or you can just fill them up with epoxy, and drill in through the expoxy once dried, and screw them on the door lock rod. I went to the gun range a while back and saved a bunch of empty 9mm shells off the floor.
  3. Lol, i had some BS offers. I couldn't leave the Ratsun club early yet, i had a guilty feeling...I turned them down and decided to keep the truck! And i finally got the truck started.
  4. I think that's where I'm lost. I keep thinking the blk/red wire to the positive side of the coil is only supposed to be getting 12 volts when the starter is kicked on, that's why i wired the blk/red wire in parallel witth the blk/yel from the starter. I didn't think about 6 volts coming back to the starter from the blk/wht coil wire (DOH!). Thanks for pointing that out. Can you help draw a schematic for me so i can see what you are talking about? I'm more of a visual person...Thank you again.
  5. I wish i could just pull the plug off the ign switch, but the previous owner had wired in a universal ign switch. and had hacked up the wire harness. I just rebuilt a new harness. So you saying to just ditch the relay? I might just try that. So would this work instead? I know the black/red wire to the coil should only have full 12 volts when the starter is cranking, so would this work?: I also noticed the ballast resistor is not reducing the voltage down to 6-8 volts like it should. I'm getting like 11.8-11.9 volts after the resistor, and 12v before the resistor.
  6. So I've been doing a lot of research and skimming through all the forums on Ratsun and other sites, and no one could provide a schematic layout of how to wire up a push start button for a datsun 620 set up. I've searched how to wire a push start for non datsun vintage and old school cars as well on youtube and various sites. On top of that I learned how relays work and tried integrating them into this setup. But now I'm stuck. I have this last wiring issue and now i can't seem to figure how to get the truck started. So the research goes on, I did several experiments. I built a small set up off the vehicle using just wires I had left over and used a small motor I found to act as the solenoid. But however, here's what i ended up with after doing the experiments and testing the circuit with my ohm meter and test lights: Please let me know if what i drew above is correct. For some reason, when I turn on the toggle switch for the push start, the truck doesn't crank. At first the starter kicked and fuel is being pumped into the carburetor. But after a while trying to crank the truck (pushing the push start) now the starter is clicking, hopefully i didn't fry the solenoid, but I was hoping the fuse would've burnt first??? However, i do notice the voltage is slowly dropping/drawing somewhere as well....I think its losing voltage at the black/white wire going to ballast resistor. I will record some more videos and take some more pics. Please help! Thanks.
  7. Cool. I cant wait to put the rear single glass windshield on. Are you talking about the EZ wire kits from SummitRacing? I think it's cheaper and better to just buy a spool of various wires sizes (14 awg, 16 awg and 18 awg) and replace them all accordingly. With limited time and patience, I couldn't find new wires with the same color scheme. I ended up going with red wire for power and black wire for ground, and i salvaged some of the old harness wires that was still usable. I advise to reference to a schematic and label the wires as well. To label, use clear heat shrink and print out your own labels using the chart feature in microsoft word like I did. It can be a pain in the ass looking at so many wires and forgetting which wire is which. As for the crimp connectors, you can try to source some new ones or use your old ones by soldering them onto the new wires. Try to replace them if you can, because i notice alot of the crimped connectors on this truck were corroded and dirty. If there's a Fry's Electronic or Ace hardware store near you, they should carry new crimp connectors or you can find some cheap on ebay or other sites. Most of the electrical supplies I got were from Frys Electronics.
  8. Its been awhile since I updated this thread. But below are some pictures of what I've been messing around with and stuff I wanted to share. Christmas came kinda early today as well. Front signal lights arrived from Thailand, and new headlight connectors came in too. Drum Roll . . . . . . . . . . . . .
  9. UPDATE: Most of the good parts on this truck has been taken. I just went back this past Saturday (11/8/14). Gone: Rear windshield, Tailgate, Passenger headlight, cluster gauge, cluster bezel, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, steering wheel horn cover, radiator, fan shroud, alternator bracket, pedal rubber covers. All the suspension parts are still there. But if anyone is interested, the truck is located at Pull-A-Parts: 4416 Buford Hwy Norcross, GA 30071 First come first serve!
  10. So I ordered new connectors from Allied Electronics to fix the problem. Good thing is that they did have the connectors to solve this mistake i made. I originally ordered part number: UTG01823PN & UTG61823SN. But to correct this small issue i made with the pin inserted into the wrong plug, I had to order part number: UTG61823PN & UTG01823SN
  11. Doh! You're right banzai510(hainz).... I just realized that....I think to save me time on having to cut the wires and re-pin the wall mount receptacle and the cable connector, I'm gonna have to order a new wall mount receptacle that accepts the female socket contacts and a cable connector to accept the male pin contacts. I was also thinking maybe de-pinning all the female and male contact pins. Flip both the connectors around and re-pin them back in to the proper connector...
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