RustyRat4x4

As long as the valves don't float, the rods don't fly apart, and there's still power.... I say keep on that right pedal!!! :hyper: There's nothing like the sound of a spinning engine :thumbup:

I've always liked Castrol GTX for the smaller, higher RPM engines, but I run NAPA Premium Plus in all my engines now (same oil as Valvoline, with less cost per quart). I know that NASCAR and Datsun's are worlds/cylinders apart, but if NASCAR can run all day long at 9'200 RPM it must hold up OK for my daily driver.. 10W 40 here in my part of WA is safe to run year round in my mind... Of course it's only an opinion.... :frantics:

SRSANDS give me a PM, close by

Bump

Still got the Z24?

Good article called 'Weber Tuning Guide' in General Technical, good reading.. Also 'olddatsuns.com is good place for info.. To me I'd say that the Primary is too lean. The more throttle used on hills = more load on engine = leaner condition.. as far as the secondary side, primary first.. 14.5 across the board would be good, but that's my opinion (backyard mechanic school...) Try like: Idle: 55-60 (Depending on mix screw turns out, shooting for 1.5-2 turns at smoothest/highest idle) Main: 145-150 Air correctors: are for high end flow(4,000-6,000+ RPM) once the idle and main jet are set for smooth transition and mid range power, then play with this so that the power doesn't fall off( Fall off: the power is good and building through the RPM, then it falls on its face = too lean) Any 'ping'.. lean detonation over time no good either... pinging on hills/under load is tell-tail of lean also

Trying to parallel park in a tight parking spot may do the trick on those stubborn rusty bolts (pardon the lame joke).

Thank you Mike...I'm guessing that moving topics is an administrative thing since I couldn't figure it out.. Thanks again

Pretty much as it sounds. Looking for a complete tailgate with hinges for an '83 720 KC 4x4.. Color really isn't an issue, but the truck is Root Beer metallic. Last one went the way of my Honda 650 quad being loaded after a good day up @ Evans Creek, followed by the bumpy road out and rear slider being smashed by the front of the quad made for a cold ride home. Beer was good when I got home too. Rear slider is fixed, now it's time for the tailgate maybe. Plywood is working for now, but I could use a tailgate again. Quad still goes like hell though!! Of course, now I see that this is in the 'for sale/wanted' section and I can't figure out how to move it to the 'parts wanted' section... anyone that can help with the post, please let me know how....

I've never seen a block heater installed except on a diesel, those went into the head I'm thinking.... But do know they help the engine turn over with ease during freezing temps.. Where do they get installed?? --freeze plug??? --one of those temp activated vacuum switches holes that are plugged now???

Right on, some things to look into..except the battery thing.. I've relocated that to the bed since my 620 doesn't have a battery platform anymore.... I'm not the 'RustyRat' for shits and giggles..

I have done some searching and have not seen what I'm looking for.... Is there a block heater for the L & Z engine block's available?? .... Or am I about to play MacGyver again??

For X-tra weight then....

traction without the front driveline? must not be much snow...

If the plug is still loose once it's tightened down crushing the crush ring washer (not sure what it's actually called if I'm wrong, and too lazy to grab a box to look) as noted on the spark plug box, then you should put in the helicoil for engine compression reasons.. a loose plug will most definitely let out cylinder compression; thus that cylinder would not work at the same compression ratio as the other cylinders. You could try to run the re-threader then replace the plug with a new one with good threads, tighten down the plug as directed. Then with the engine running take a piece of vacuum hose about 3-4 feet long. Place one end of the hose close to your ear and the other end around the base of the spark plug. Move the end of the hose around the spark plug base to listen for a leak (like a DR. uses a stethoscope for an exam). If you don't know what to listen for, place the end of the hose near the carburetor throat. That wind sound is what your listening for. If that sound is heard around the spark plug base then I would put in the helicoil for the sealing aspect of compression (partly dead hole at that point, or at least a weak hole). Could try to tighten up the plug a little more for a tighter seal but steel pulling on aluminum is very soft as you and I have found out. Then the helicoil will be a needed purchase for sure. As far as taping out to a larger size plug, that I'm not quite sure about. The helicoil set solved my problems keeping everything as stock as possible. If anyone has info that I am messing up, please correct me..