deerio

The rotor spins counterclockwise so to advance timing you'd rotate the distributor clockwise... I think, right?

How much voltage are you getting at the ignition side of the coil during idle and at increasing rpms? I have an electronic ignition dizzy from an MG available but wanted to make sure everything was good before I put it in. At this point i'm holding off until I make sure I wont burn anything up. I might try to get a hold of another voltage regulator to see if it will fix things.

Im actually using an external resistor with my coil, and in addition, I have another coil that's internally regulated. Both have about 3-3.3 ohms of resistance. The problem is that the coil is getting 12-18+ volts to it... I'm almost wondering if in the process of polarizing my generator to negative ground, that I somehow messed up my voltage regulator? In any case, would using a new regulator (perhaps from an MG) fix my problem?

I doubt I've actually driven it more than 15-30mins at a time. Any suggestions on a replacement external regulator to try out?

I took the generator apart a couple years ago to replace the brushes and bearings. In the process I repolarized the system to be negative ground. I haven't had any issues since. If it weren't for trying to install this new ignition module, I never would have bothered to check the output to the coil being so high.

I actually have an original generator

That was an option Wayno but I figured since I had a Lucas 25d available, I figured I'd give the module a try for $25. I was ready to throw it in but at this point I'd hate to burn up the module from such high voltage. What's every one else getting at the coil during idle and higher rpms???

Hey all, I was going to try out a cheap electronic ignition module and part of the process involves checking the charging voltage at the positive side coil at increasing rpms. Keep in mind my 320 is negative ground, so the positive side of the coil for me is connected to the ignition and the negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor. Now the problem is that the electronic ignition module calls for a max of 14v at the positive side of the coil at any rpm. Well, the voltage at the positive side of the coil for me during idle is about 13v and goes up to 18v around 3500rpm, I didn't check further than that. Is my voltage regulator, not regulating? Or is it improperly adjusted?

If you're looking for a cheap place for powder coating, I got mine done at Les Schwab. It's $30 total for blasting and coating. The downsides are that they only have something like 8 colors to choose from and it's not exactly the best results, but IMO good enough for the price. I heard they ship it out to somewhere in OR and the turn around time is 1-2weeks.

I thought I heard somewhere that this setup interferes with the steering column and brake MC?

Andy has done a ton of work documenting what he can with his projects over on nicoclub. I would suggest reading a lot of the threads he started as well as Steve's (difrangia) build thread, all of them very helpful. http://forums.nicoclub.com/running-on-a-budget-63-pl-320-t586738.html http://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-parts-list-w-pic-t592689.html

I personally check timing while standing in front of the radiator and pointing the timing light pretty much from right above the balancer, but the belt gets in the way a little bit. From what I can remember, the first notch is TDC, then it's 10deg, 15 deg, 20degrees

Wayne's right, I had some copies laser cut by some guy I found locally. I sold a few and gave a few away so I'll have to check if I have more. Shoot me a PM to remind me.

The Pertronix 1741 is not a direct fit. I'm not sure if it can be made to work but I can tell you that the holes do not line up. I still have the unit from when I tried, hoping I can maybe use a different points distributor and change the drive.

Thanks, hopefully others find it useful! As much as I wanted to replace some of the old rusted bits with new ones, I quickly found out that it's not always possible, given that some of the stuff is not common these days. In some cases, drilling things out and tapping for more common thread pitches is a lot more work than I'm willing to put in. :P