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DanielC

Member Since 10 Oct 2007
Offline Last Active Today, 12:22 PM
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Topics I've Started

L-20-B water pumps

04 June 2018 - 06:57 AM

The L-20-B on the right has been bolted into the engine compartment of the white truck it was sitting in the bed of in this picture.
This is an engine out of a 720 pickup,that had air conditioning.
L-20-BInRatsunBed.JPG

After putting the fan on the waterpump clutch assembly, I slid the radiator into the engine compartment. The fan is way too close to the radiator, it touches the radiator.  The fan is bolted on backwards, because it sits even farther forward bolted on the correct way.
FanClose2.JPG

I removed the waterpump clutch assembly, and put the fan back on the assembly, and set it fan down on a bench. This is the height from the mounting surface of the waterpump to the fan front edge, about 4 3/4 inches.
L20PumpHeight.JPG

This is a fan from another L-20-B with a L-16 pulley, and waterpump, no clutch. It is a little over 3 5/8 inches. But the vanes on the L-16 waterpump are not as tall as the vanes on the L-20-B waterpump, or it would have been on the engine by now.
L18PumpHeight.JPG

What waterpump do I need to get that has no clutch, and taller L-20-B vanes?


BRE 510

03 April 2018 - 12:37 PM

I was at the local Nissan dealer last week, getting some 521 parts, and noticed this.  Today, I took my camera to the dealer.

Front.JPG

Right.JPG

Back.JPG

Left.JPG

Dash.JPG

RollBar.JPG

Dick Hanna Nissan, Gladstone, Oregon

521 Headlight wiring improvement

16 September 2017 - 11:02 PM

I have had 521 trucks for a long time, since the mid 1970's.  One of the changes I did then was to change to halogen headlights, and I added additional relays to handle the current.   I did several different ways of wiring additional headlight relay, and finally came up this way.

On a stock 521, the fuse box is the weak link in the wiring, and the headlights draw the most current of all the electrical accessories, the fusebox is barely adequate for the stock current demands.

 

This modification is one way of improving the performance on even stock headlights.  It uses a second relay to take headlight electrical current directly from the battery, and bypass the fusebox, the headlight switch, the headlight wiring into and back out of the cab, several connectors, and about 5 feet of wire.  It uses the stock headlight wiring that is bypassed to trigger the additional relay.

 

First, you need to get a relay, and supply power to it.  This is how I supplied power to the additional relay.  The orange wire goes to the additional relay, the white wire comes from the positive battery terminal. FuseboxClose.JPG

 

This is a second picture of the battery, and the wiring to the fuse box.  I made my own battery cable, it is a 2/0 cable going to the starter, and the white wire is a 8 gauge wire.  The orange wire, with a fuse holder is a 12 or possibly 10 gauge wire.

FuseboxFar.JPG

 

 

This is a picture of the additional relay I added, the blue one.  It was used in a different version of 521 headlight wiring before I did it this current way.  You can use almost any relay, just make sure the contacts will handle headlight current.  This is more critical if you use after market high wattage headlights.  A good relay to use is a KC HiLites part 3300.  This relay is rated at 40 amps, and has two 87 terminals, and does not have a 87A terminal.   You can get them mail order from Summit Racing.

AuxHeadlightRelay.JPG

 

The stock 521 headlight relay has four terminals.  You can identify the stock headlight relay by looking for a relay with three thick red wires, with stripes, and thinner light green wire, by the battery.

 

The additional orange power wire I added from the fusebox terminal goes to pin 30 of the added relay.  You move the stock red with a yellow stripe from the original stock headlight relay to pin 86 of the new relay.  Pin 85 of the new relay gets grounded, I used one of the screws that hold the original headlight relay to the inner fender.  Then you make a short jumper that goes from pin 87 of the new relay, to the open terminal on the original headlight relay.

 

The red wire with a yellow stripe comes from the light switch, and has power when the switch is pulled out.

The red wire with a black stripe goes to the two low beam lamp filaments.

The red wire with a white stripe goes to the four high beam filaments.

The coil inside the stock relay is is hard wired to the terminal that gets power from the light switch, on the red with a yellow stripe wire.  

The light green wire, with a red stripe goes to the turn signal, and is grounded when the turn signal lever is pushed forward. 

 

Yes, I know the blue relay is just hanging by the wires.  It should be mounted to the inner fender, but the wires going to it hold it in place pretty well.  The KC HiLites 3300 relay does have a mounting tab on it.