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Member Since 10 Oct 2007
Offline Last Active Today, 07:26 PM

#1551745 A 521 in Massachusetts

Posted by DanielC on Yesterday, 04:12 PM

The park/turn lights should be OK to not have a separate ground.  All the sheet metal between them and the ground wire at the voltage regulator screw is welded.

If you are running an IR alternator, you still need the ground wire attached to the inner fender where the voltage regulator was.

#1551724 A 521 in Massachusetts

Posted by DanielC on Yesterday, 01:44 PM

The front park and turn lights wires on a 521 have are wrapped up with the headlight wires, enter the headlight buckets from the top, and then go down to the back side of the park and turn lights.  There is a cover, on the inside of the fender, that protects the wires and light from debris thrown off the front tire.  The park and turn lights are grounded by their mounting bolts.


The grommet on the inner fender, just aft of the headlight buckets is for the side marker light wires.  These lights need a power, and a ground wire.

#1551668 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on Yesterday, 08:43 AM

I would like to eventually use the whole engine!

#1551554 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 14 March 2018 - 07:23 PM

Mike, Are you sure that is a five speed Dogleg trans?
I was told that it was a four speed.
I need a shift lever for this transmission, and the five speed I got in February

#1551522 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 14 March 2018 - 04:52 PM

I am not sure if I needed to do this, but i got another L-20-B engine today.
The guy selling it included this transmission.
This is the head on the second L-20-B engine
It looks like it is a square exhaust port head.

#1551285 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 13 March 2018 - 02:14 PM

I did put some lithium (white) grease on the thermostat cover bolt threads.

#1551247 My Dragon Datsun 521

Posted by DanielC on 13 March 2018 - 10:38 AM

I have been kind of ignoring Dragon while working on a L-20-B engine I got from a Pick-n-Pull in February.  I have been starting it, and driving it a little, every week or two.  Cars are much happier if you do not let let then sit for a long time.
Anyway, I Needed to adjust the choke cable in Dragon.  I started it, drove in in my garage, and started to work on the cable.  the I heard a water leak, down by the alternator.  I finished the work on the cable, and let the engine cool a little.  I got a light, and used a pressure tester to put some pressure on the cooling system.  I found a bad lower radiator hose.  Then I drained the coolant, and removed the lower radiator hose.


This is the bad hose. 


I have kept old radiator hoses, and also have some new, and newer ones.  I got my box of radiator hoses out of storage, and got a much better lower radiator hose. 


Last December, I had put the wipers, and other stuff back in the cab of Dragon.  I could not find the wiper motor that came out of Dragon, so I put another wiper motor in Dragon.

Why am I telling you this?

Because in the bottom of my box of radiator hoses was sitting the wiper motor for Dragon.


Anyway, I put the better radiator hose on Dragon, and coolant back in it, pressure tested the cooling system, and put Dragon back away.

#1551245 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 13 March 2018 - 10:19 AM

This is the basic process I am using to clean the engine, and it's parts.
Earlier, I took the thermostat housing off the engine, it looked like this.  I used an old knife to scrape thick crud off the part
This is after scraping the housing.  Notice the garbage can I was scraping crud into.
This is cleaning brush I am using, and some of the Purple Power cleaner in a cup below the brush.
Scrubbing the thermostat housing.
After scrubbing the part, I sprayed it down with Dawn and water.  This is just a short squirt of Dawn dishwashing detergent, the household stuff, in an almost full bottle of water.
This is after spraying the housing with Dawn and water, and drying the part.
Another view of the cleaned part, but I removed the thermostat cover bolts to clean them.
bolts, close view.


Wirebrushing the bolts


I then used a file to clean old gasket material off the head mounting surface, and then got a new gasket, and put it back on the engine.

#1551020 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 12 March 2018 - 09:28 AM

This arrived Saturday, right as I was leaving to go do other stuff.
On Sunday, I had about a half hour between church, and work, and tried it out.  Before using it, I put an old nitrile glove oner the distributor pedestal.



I poured a little bit of the cleaner into an empty 6 oz yoghurt cup, and used a small brush to scrub the grime on the engine.   after scrubbing, I rinsed the scrubbed areas with a diluted mix of Dawn dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle, and wiped with a rag.

#1550847 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 11 March 2018 - 09:29 AM


    That is a great tease.  Where do you get the plugs?  Please take into mind I live in Oregon, not on Vancouver Island.

#1550840 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 11 March 2018 - 09:13 AM

Manifold Installation.
First, clean the manifold surface on the head.  Clean the manifold surface on the intake manifold, and on the exhaust manifold.  In this picture, I am using a file to clean the manifold surface.  Try to bridge across at least two manifold surfaces, to keep everything flat.
Front port filed.
Middle port filed
Aft port filed.
Install the studs used for the exhaust manifold.  One in the middle, and one on each end.  Put the gasket on the studs.   If the gasket you use has a marking on it about what side goes to the head, pay attention to that.   Because I used a cut gasket, I put the top intake manifold bolts in to hold the gasket pieces in place.  Then I put the exhaust manifold on and the three nuts and washers on the three studs, just started them,  The four bottom intake manifold bolts were put in, again to hold the gasket pieces in place, because of the cut gasket.
If you use a cut gasket, you may need to push the gaskets pieces around a little.  I had to reach under the exhaust manifold, and push the center section of the gasket up.  Then I tightened the three nuts on the exhaust manifold, snug, but not tight.
On this engine, the rear lift ring also holds the PCV pipe coming from the crankcase.  Before I tightened the nut on the rear stud, I put the bolt that holds the rear lift ring to the PCV pipe bracket.  This bolt was tightened barely snug, the nut on the manifold stud was tightened, and then the small PCV pipe bracket bolt was tightened.
Then tighten the three exhaust manifold stud nuts.
Next, you just start the four lower bolts that hold both manifolds, with the thick washers.  Then you move the washers out to the end of the bolt, away from the head of the bolt.
Then you can set the intake manifold on the four lower bolts.  If you use a stock Nissan gasket that has sticky stuff on it, try to not contact that stuff until the next step.
While holding the intake manifold away from contacting sticky stuff on the gasket, start one of the top bolts in the intake manifold, and after it is started, shart the other three top intake manifold bolts.

This is a 12 MM socket on a U-joint.  It makes it much easier to tighten the two inner lower manifold bolts that clamp the intake and exhaust manifolds on number 2 and 3 cylinders.
This is the 12 mm socket and u-joint on one of the inner lower manifold bolts
this is the angle the extension has to be at to get the u-joint and socket on the 12,mm head of the bolt. 
You can also reach the two inner lower bolts with a 12 MM wrench, but it is a a tight fit.


Then tighten all then intake manifold bolts, working from the center out.

Tighten the manifold bolts and nuts 9 to 12 foot-pounds of torque.

#1550687 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 10 March 2018 - 12:31 PM

I did two cuts on the six cylinder L gasket, and used it.
The original gasket.
This is how I cut the gasket, I used some aviation snips to cut it.
I cut the front three ports off the six cylinder gasket, number 1 exhaust and intake, number 2 intake.
I then cut the back three ports off the six cylinder gasket. number 3 intake, and number 4 intake and exhaust.
And then I trimmed the middle section of the gasket to fit number 2 and 3 exhaust ports.
For clarity this is the head manifold surface with the middle section on on yet.
Welding up the holes in the tube nuts seems like a good way to go.  I saved all the parts from when I removed the nuts, I think I have tube portions that I can use.

#1550674 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 10 March 2018 - 11:19 AM

The L-20-B engine I have came out of a 1980 720 truck. I tried to get part number A4035-W5301 manifold gasket for the engine, it is No Longer Available from Nissan.

#1550634 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 10 March 2018 - 08:48 AM

I managed to salvage four of the air injection pipe nuts, from two different L-20-B exhaust manifolds.  If I cannot get or find plugs that will screw into the exhaust manifold, I may be able to use these pipe nuts to hold something in the hole to plug the port on the exhaust manifold.

Why is it so difficult to find round exhaust port manifold gaskets for a four cylinder L engine.  This is a square exhaust port gasket on the L-20-B engine.  Note gasket overhang into the exhaust port.  Will the port sleeves help keep hot exhaust away from the gasket edges that hang into the port?
Front number one exhaust port.
Back number four exhaust port.

When I went to Clackamas Auto Parts to pick up the manifold gaskets I ordered on Wednesday, this is the gasket they had.  I can see where I could cut the front of this gasket in between number 2 intake, and exhaust, splice in number 3 and 4 Exhaust from the center of this gasket, and cut the aft end of this gasket in between number 5 intake and exhaust.   That would put my gasket cuts in between the exhaust and intake manifolds.  Is that the way to go?


I would like to note one of the part persons at Clackamas auto spent about 20 minutes cross referencing gasket part numbers from different sources, including the stock Nissan no longer available part number, and they all came back to this six cylinder gasket. 

#1550618 Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.

Posted by DanielC on 10 March 2018 - 06:17 AM

I worked on this yesterday,
Close view
Usable pipe nut, and broken one.
I cut and ground the broken pipe, and nut close to the exhaust manifold,
And then I tried welding a bolt into the remnants of the broken pipe nut,to screw the broken nut out.
That did not work.  So, I went a little "off script" and since I did not know how it was going to turn out, did not take pictures.  I ground the remnants of the broken bolt off, drilled it out again, and then used a larger drill to cut most of the inside of the pipe nut out.  Then I did a second weld, short time at first, to build up a weld bead inside the remnants of the pipe nut, without penetrating through the wall of the nut and into the manifold.  As material got built up, I then used a longer time weld to completely fill the hole.  After it cooled, with an air hose blowing on it, I then pilot drilled the center of the plug, with a 1/8 drill bit, and then a 1/4 drill bit. 
An "Easy Out" tap was then used in the 1/4 hole, and the remnants of the pipe nut finally came out.
Then I made a trip to Clackamas Auto Parts, to pick up manifold gaskets I ordered earlier this week.  I also got some new studs for manifold mounting to the head, and one new stud for the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
Exhaust manifold bottom stud.