DylanFM

Sorry, I don't have an original sample or a spare door frame. I just have my reproductions and the doors attached to my truck. It sounds like @Dirty666 might have some original samples. Dylan

I cut them to length. I believe the original parts came cut to length with a little bit of either end trimmed down to a narrow strip. One of these strips would wrap around the edge of door frame and get pinched in a strip of metal to hold the squeegee in place. The other short strip would tuck under the edge of the vent window rubber. I just cut those strips down after I cut them to length. I do have a strip that I could send to Thailand, but I would want to make sure that they will be testing these strips in an actually door frame before going into full production. Just like they did with the vent rubbers. I would hate to find out that they don't work well for other people because of my reference part. Dylan

I have a cad model of the basic profile of the window squeegee (which from previous comments is not what they want) and squeegees that I made from a 3d printed mold of that CAD model. I'm a little concerned that my squeegees are a little smaller than the originals. When installed the squeegee just barely or didn't quite reach the window on the end nearest to the door panel. I had to shim the window in the track with some more window felt. On the end closer to the vent window I felt the squeegee had enough contact with the glass, so maybe this was just a problem with my worn down window felt. Or it is possible that it is a problem with my CAD model because I modeled them from very old and shrunken squeegees. My homemade squeegees are also not the exact right length, I just cut them to fit. This thread has more details: https://ratsun.net/topic/75757-nl320-outer-door-weatherstrip-pn-80341-09400/ If any of this would help get proper parts made I will happily send it along. Dylan

Does anybody have an idiots guide to adjusting one of these J15 carbs for the E1 motor? I bought one and would like install it, but I don't really know a lot about correctly adjusting carbs. Dylan

They are 195 70 14s. The previous owner put blocks between the differential and the leaf springs to lower it a couple of inches. Im not sure what, if anything, the owner did to the front suspension.

No idea. That is just what it came with.

I don't have a build thread. I purchased a complete running NL320 several years ago and drove it for about a year. I had a cheap paint job put on it that looked ok for awhile but now is fading and peeling so that was probably a mistake. I didn't really have to do much work on it. I did a few misc things like replace the distributor with an electronics ignition distributor, replaced the door cards with laser cut wood ones, etc. I had a problem with the brakes that I thought/hope was a leaking rubber brake line and I didn't get around to fixing it so the truck as been sitting for a couple of years. I finally replaced the brake line and the master cylinder but I'm having problems bleeding the brakes by my self. It is possible that I have some other leak in the brake system. I have some pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3LRHCYmKpM8ADop8

I got the 3D scanned gaskets from 320newb. Initially, I tried cleaning up the scans to see if they could be used to make molds, but they are pretty rough. So I spent some time trying to re-draw the gaskets in CAD using the 3D scans as reference, but got distracted by other projects. I believe that if there was a good cad model then a 3d printed mold could be made for "good enough" quality gaskets. But the time and money involved wouldnt make it a huge savings over the prices being quoted by the AAS (although the shipping seems oddly high). I base this on my limited experience making my own window squeegees. For ~6-10 useable parts I spent ~$75 in materials + 100hours of 3d printing + ~10 hours casting them. That was spread out over 3 or 4 weeks. Granted, now I have the molds and I could probably make a small batch (maybe 25-50 before the mold fails) for just the time of casting and cost of materials, but that still isn't exactly cheap ( depending on how much your time is worth). The vent gaskets are much more complicated to draw accurately in CAD, will be more difficult to cast, and require much more fit testing and refinement, but I still think it is a project that could be done with 3d printing. I just dont know if I will get to it. If I needed the gaskets bad enough I would be tempted to pre-order the AAS parts. If the parts are actually made, I will probably try to buy a set for the future. But with where I'm at now, I cant see risking pre-ordering something that may never be made. The website seems a little sketchy and there is nothing that links the pre-order form to the company even if is legit. I guess I'm in wait and see mode which isn't really helpful for getting these made.

Email sent.

Are there really CAD files of the vent window seals already? If there are, I would also like them to seen if I can make a 3d printed mold like I did for the window weatherstrips. I was assuming that a lot of the problem was that the cad files still need to be made. Another resource for have a mold made might be fictiv.com. They do on demand manufacturing including injection molding. They have an automated quoting system that allows you see what it would for the initial molds as well as each part afterwards. I haven't used them for anything yet, but I have sat through a little presentation for them and have also tested out their quoting system a little bit. Dylan

I would consider it, just to see if I can do it, but I don't have any wing window gaskets to model the molds from. To make the window seals I cut a thin slice of my worn out seal, scanned in on my flatbed scanner, then traced it in cad and scaled it to the correct size. I ended up tweaking the scaling several times by printing out test blocks until they fit the piece of my existing window seal. I believe the that window gaskets are a closed profile, right? It is a triangular loop with the corner bends molded into it, right? This means that in addition to a piece of the gasket to get the profile, I would also need precise measurements overall shape of the window. Even if it was just a close circular loop of rubber that had been pressed into a triangular area, I would still need a way of knowing exactly how big that loop was. There isn't an option to just trim off the excess length. Unless I am wrong about what these are. My wing window gaskets are currently intact (knock on wood), and not leaking that I'm aware of so I'm not going to take them apart to try any of this

It really isn't that much work because everything is only takes about 20 minutes. The harder work in my opinion is cleaning up the mold afterwards. After 24hrs, I use a nail to press all the M3 bolts out (which can be difficult), then cut all all the zipties. The mold separates pretty easily, but you have to be careful to not tear the rubber seal if the excess rubber flashing is connecting the seal to the molds. The seal then can be pulled out of the mold, which again is pretty easy except where there are stray sections of rubber that have got done into the alignment holes of the mold. I then trim the excess rubber off the seal using scissors. I use a nail to press out any remaining rubber out of the alignment holes and clean up the rest of the mold and other supplies. The clean up and prep for the next molding probably takes 20-40 minutes and is kind of a hassle. If I was to do it over again, I would put many fewer holes in the molds, try to do it in longer sections, do a better job sanding the molds (both on the inner mold surfaces and on the other surfaces to make clean up easier), and maybe glue alignment pins into the molds rather than have to press them out every time. This is actually what I am trying to do. Sort of just to see if I can, I am printing four 160mm mold sections with fewer holes in them. It is actually almost done with the first 2 of them (it could still fail), and then I will need to do 2 more. These are both the tallest and longest running 3d prints I have ever done (36 hours). The overall length of these molds will get rid of the extra 200mm in length that I didn't need and should make everything easier to manage. If they work, I will be able to test them out on my last 1 or 2 seals worth of rubber. If they fail to print or are too much of a pain to get sanded down right then I oh well.

The materials I used I got from Reynolds Advanced (AKA Smooth-on, but shipping was slightly lower from the Reynolds site). Part numbers and cost: Econ 80 - Trial Size 10016977 1 $27.78 Universal Mold Release - Aerosol Can 10001661 1 $14.36 UVO Black Tint - 2 oz. 10020842 1 $13.64 Subtotal $55.78 Shipping $15.43 Grand Total $71.21 The dye and the mold release will make a lot more windows seals than the Trail size of the Urethane rubber. This stuff is also available on Amazon. The two part rubber is mixed 1:1 by volume and as a pot time of 13-15 minutes. I purchased some small plastic bowls and a set of measuring spoons for mixing and measuring from the dollar store. I have been mixing up more than I need which is wasteful, but I want to make sure I completely fill the molds. The "bottom" halves of molds (which are actually the top surface of the rubber seals) are all connected to each other with glue and a length of all thread running through them. The "top" halves of the molds are still in 14 individual pieces. The mold is a total is of 840mm long (~33") which is really about 210mm longer than it needs to be. Each section should require ~2.7ml of rubber to fill it up, but a lot leaks out the sides, etc so I have been using 5ml per section. This is roughly the process I follow: 1. Lay out the mold with all the top peices in the correct order 2. Spray all the mold sections with the mold release 3. Measure out 3 tablespoons (45ml) part A into a bowl. 4. Put 12 drops of the black dye into the bowl 5. Measure out 3 tablespoons of Part B into the mixing bowl (for a total on 90ml). 6. Mix by hand and with a make shift whisk in my drill for a couple of minutes. 7. Cover the bowl with a paper towel and put it inside the canister of my shop vac, turn the shop vac on, plug the hose with a piece of plastic, and let run for 2.5-3 minutes. This is my make shift way of degassing the rubber. 8. Remove the rubber from the shop vac and start putting one teaspoon of rubber (5ml) into each section of the mold. 9. Put the top halves of the molds on, starting for the right to the left except for the last piece. The end cap of the mold on the right hand side has a lip so the top half of the mold needs to slip over and into place. 10. Put a ziptie around each section of the mold, except the the left most piece that isnt installed yet. Pull snug. 11. Put a single M3 bolt through each section of for mold. This it really to help with alignment, I don't even put nuts on them any more. 12. Put the left most top half of the mold in place. Because of reasons, the last piece seems like it is ~1/4" to long to fit and you have to flex the mold and kind of angle the last piece into place. If you do this before the zipties are put on the then the mold with start popping apart. 13. Ziptie the last piece and then pull all the zipties tight with pliers. 14. The goal is to complete all of this in 13 minutes. After the mold is filled, I think it is best to keep it as close to horizontal as possible in the large direction and at a ~45 degree angle from to back.. I added some pictures of the mold, etc, to the album that I posted earlier. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SnXGCP91Cc5vPety8

Hmmm... I thought I set the sharing of those pictures right. Here is a link to a shared google album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SnXGCP91Cc5vPety8 Dylan