510venture

I left them alone as I had read about them exactly what you are describing...that they are a pita and given my cars original symptoms I really believed my issue was in the accelerator pump circuit. I will check it out none the less though and I'll post a couple pics after work of how it looks. I may have incorrectly installed one of the two throttle springs...other than that I've got nothing and im fresh out of ideas. I'm on my way to a weber I suspect but I'm not giving up completely on the Hitachi. Thanks for the reply and the suggestion.

Hello all, hope your labor days went swimmingly. I spent mine finishing up a rebuild of a Hitachi daf328. This was the first time I've ever laid my hands on any carburetor and despite everything going seemingly well it was no surprise when it didn't work correctly. I was having the exact same issues described here which led me to the rebuild... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/51630-l16-stumbles-at-wot-with-hitachi-dch328-with-video-suggestions-please/page-2 So I won't rehash all that. I obtained a rebuild kit and disassembled the carb into 3 sections keeping all the parts together. When I was done I had nothing left over and all seemed well. The rebuild kit lacked a boot for the accelerator pump but i figured i can find one online. When I turned the car over it took a few times to start, I assume thats normal but when it finally started the engine rev'd up and up till I finally turned the car off. It was like the throttle was wide open. I have pictures of it before the disassemble and I can post some pictures of how it sits now tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone had a guess as to what would cause this issue post carburetor rebuild? I have changed the points, plugs, coil, fuel and air filter and that's about all. Thanks for any advice/Insults you'd want to throw at me. Also, I'm thinking about taking the advice I've read on here and getting a weber carb. What's recommended? I've heard some good things about the 32/36.

Weathstrips, another needed item on the list. Where'd you end up getting them, if you don't mind me asking?

Good for you, that's excellent. I had to replace the driver side rear door on my car when I bought it. Had to find one on eBay. Shipping was more than the door itself. I sure would have loved to have been able to drive and pick one up.

Thanks for the great info on the r-180. Its going into the master list I am compiling of swappable parts. There is this fellow close to me, http://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/4448798252.html Says he has all kinds of z parts for 240,260,280... I'm going to give him a call. Are the rear diffs typically the same from z car to z car or should I ask about a specific z diff? Its pretty much a forgone conclusion that I won't be finding and 810's or 720's near me, 4x4 or otherwise. None for Parts swappin at least. They all rusted away many years ago. I have been to junk yards and pick and pulls a plenty and am always laughed away. The occasional z or zx or sx can still be found for sure but that's about it. I'll have to figure out what year Maxima's work. Depending on how recent they do i may have some luck. I'm sure its all covered in a different thread.

Thanks for all the responses, glad to hear the general consensus is that stock is fine if not beaten on. One less thing to have to buy and monkey with up front is always good news. Here is one of the threads I was originally reading, its about Sr's but the original poster asks about using the stock rear diff with the ka as well and is told its not a good idea. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18329 There was another one where a few people basically said "no" or "its a bad idea" but damned if I can find it again. I get the point though, if I don't beat on it, it (probably) won't break prematurely. Seems to make good sense.

Holy hell and sweet heaven on earth, I want to go to there!

Thanks as always for the lightning fast response and excellent information. Some of the threads I read suggested the stock diff wasn't strong enough. Not using slicks and not abusing it isn't a problem. A hair of spirited driving from time to time, maybe but no abuse. I don't plan on racing or launching the car at all. Just want a nice summer daily driver with a little bit more power than stock. Thanks again ggzilla and datzenmike, you two are always there with fast, polite, and accurate information.

Been doing lots of reading, trying to figure out which is the best/closest to direct bolt on/minimal effort rear diff to switch to when doing a ka swap. I've read in a few places that stock will work but its easy to explode it. Seen a few options wondering what those who know best prefer. I found a 5sp transmission to go with the motor I just picked up. 80 bucks on eBay, local pick up only. Just happened to be 20 miles away. Guy says it works fine, he just wants it out of his life. Soon I'll be able to see if I'm just adding parts to a giant paper weight or if I've got something working. Thanks for the opinions/advice.

You are right about that. I have seen a car or two end up in miscellaneous brown cardboad boxes stacked around/on top of/inside of a husk of a shell that used to be the car. I plan on doing what I can incrementally but the whole car needs paint and has some typical rust spots both of which I will have to turn to a professional for. Figure if I can get the body to a shop over the winter when its "off the road" that might be my best bet. This car will never see a snow flake again so living in buffalo, that should leave a few weeks each year in which to drive it.

Yes, winter storage rust, polish right up. Let's go with that, I like that! Well, I'm pretty hopful but I certainly won't be blown away if I've got to put work into it. When I first contacted the seller I asked, "This looks like a ka, correct?", and "Are there any other parts, ecu, wire harness, etc?" And "who rebuilt it?" On all accounts it was, "I don't know." It was perplexing, how do you know it was rebuilt, then? How do you not know if there's an ecu or not? Seemed odd to me. After meeting the seller he explained to me that a buddy of his was cleaning out his garage and the motor had been left by his nefew who had it rebuilt and he just wanted it gone so he gave it to the seller. Seemed like a thing that could happen. There's a couple big question marks but at the price I'll roll the dice. Is thisismatt correct? I found an ecu on eBay for 10 bucks and 15 shipping but its a manual. For the summer I'm just going to rock the l16 and enjoy the car. As beat up as it is, and it damn sure is, its a head turner. Everyone is my friend when I drive it. Everyone wants to talk to me about it. I'm only too happy to be able to. Come winter though I'm going to take it off the road and start taking it apart and fixing it up so I'm sure I'll be asking lots of questions I should probably already know the answer to. I appreciate everyone being here, taking the time out to help me better understand what I'm doing. Thanks all.

There are fates worse than rebuild. I figure I could always get lucky...but I'm not counting on it.

Thank you everyone for the furiously fast responses. A little internet research let me to believe the guy meant 240sx. I know its a risk but I figured 3 bills made it not too much of a potentially catastrophic one. I am typically not a gambling man but I figured what the hell. The rusty flywheel is not reassuring by any stretch of the imagination. I feel considerably less than great about it. It was advantageous when I pointed it out to him as another reason that 800 was too far out there but beyond that its mostly unsettling.

Just picked this up. http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/4518596650.html I think the ad is still up as of this posting. From what I can figure its a ka24de. Its missing an exhaust manifold and ecu and wiring harness and I'm sure a couple other things. The seller told me he needed cash and to just throw out a crazy low ball number and so I did and less than half the asking price later it was mine. So my questions then, does this appear to be a ka24de as I am pretty positive that it is? Can I source an ecu from a different vehicle that used this same engine? Am i further proving my ignorance by assuming a manual ka transmission will bolt up to this? At 300 does this seem worth it? No paper work on the rebuild but the engine is super clean and spins by hand and everything looks strait. I'm picking it up later, anything I should check for before I ride away with it? Thanks for any info/advice/opinions. I appreciate it.

I have had some luck with the company fastenal. I dunno if they have locations near you but as you said, a bolt supply house is a good place to start. That'd be my first stop.