StewyN
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Location
Idaho
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Cars
1985 Nissan 720
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Interests
Mechanics, fishing
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Occupation
CNC Operator
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oil level is full, it doesn't leak a drip or burn much if any. i didn't want to drive on the noise, but it wasn't a concerning noise, almost a heat shield or exhaust rattle, until about 2 miles to work. i thought maybe it could be detonation noise afterwards, so i fiddled with the timing just a hair until i thought it was running decent, then i hopped on the road home and it was apparent i had something major going on so pulled over and called the tow truck. millage? unknown. the speed-o stripped out of the trans before i ever owned it. that's all that's wrong with the trans so i never fixed it (gps speed-0 works just fine) Supposedly the 2nd engine had 80,000ish miles on it when i got it, bought it pulled, and the guy said his dad rolled the truck so they took what was good and scraped the rest, dont think thats the issue either, ive been running it for just over 10 years now. no, have not changed the gasket ever and dont know if the previous owner ever did I get the rough idle, but that would cause lifter noise as well?
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Ran into a big one today, My 720 with the z24, started a tiny tick, clatter,rattle kinda noise coming from the engine area, this morning, as the drive went on (appox. 20 miles total) the noise grew louder. it only happened in gear and around 1500-2200 rpm, but was running fine. got close to work and shifted gears and the noise was 10 fold louder and it started idling rough. messed with it a bit and thought i had it running better but about halfway home the noise now was heard at any rpm, in gear or not. it seemed to come and go as i drove, almost like a sticky valve freeing and sticking over and over again. but never going completely away. it finally got bad enough i pulled over and called a tow truck. I'm going to pull the valve cover off and inspect tomorrow but wouldn't mind hearing any other ideas or solutions. this is my second engine in this truck and the last one failed in a very similar way. fine one day and the next... toast. Last oil change? spark plugs, ect? you wanna ask me my religion? MAINTENANCE. i do all the usual tune up stuff on average a little earlier than due Thanks in advance
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So which wire is which, the choke is blue? and the idle cut..?
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Guess i was a bit to vague about "smog pump". What i meant by that was, the just hook their tester up on the exhaust and call it good. Good to know on the idle cut. Wouldn't have thought of modding the exhaust pipe in. good point mike. It defiantly gets freeing around here, but usually not coupled with fog, and not many freezing rains. Not to say that it never happens tho.
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Hey guys, so i know this one has probably been beat to death, but i cant find a complete start to finish on it. So here we go... Working with an 85 720 2wd with the Z24, with the 6 wire carb. Ordered the K646 weber kit from redline, has everything for a "direct" bolt in/up. I'm hoping to gather everything i NEED to know. Vacuum delete seems to be preference (unless emissions restrictions). Ive came across mentions of the O2 senor becoming pointless/not needed after swapping (old carb 6 wires, new carb 1 wire for choke, yea we're losing 5 electric items😏) but i also came across charlie69 saying he has his working with a weber, but doesn't elaborate on how. And as for the other 4 IF possible id like to have them hooked up. Basically I would like to do this as right as possible and keep as much working as possible ( yes i have to pass emissions, but around here, all a truck that old gets is hooked to the smog pump, they've never popped the hood or checked for a cat). Thanks in advance.
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cool got that broke loose just as it got dark, back at it tomorrow after work i suppose. so another question, are the head bolts on these engines reusable? Ive heard mixed opinions on this across all makes and models of engines. some say always new, some say it doesn't mater as long as they look good.
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yea i have the head pulled off of the engine right now. didnt really plan on letting the tentioner come loose and have to tear this far into it
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with most of the engine being pulled apart, whats a good way to brake the crank bolt loose? i dont really want to spin the engine backwards
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well i had attempted to but didnt do it well enough because my tensioner popped out. what is the warp allowance on theses motors?
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Hey guys,so i tore into my engine today under the assumption of a blow head gasket. (smoke rolled out of the radiator filler prior to tear down) got the head off and the head gasket doesnt seem to be blown, nor are there any cracks in the head. but cylinder 3 was plumb full of coolant. is there something im overlooking or would this be normal for a head gasket failure?
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yea im leaning towards the L swap if any, so im wondering, ballparkish, how much of a benefit will that L head give me in terms of power (HP/torque)?
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So stay away from the KA's is what your saying. A L20 head would bolt right up no issues? Multiple carbs on on the L20 set up? What are you thinking, side drafts or..?
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Hey guys, this is a bit of a follow up from my last post. I'm leaning towards maybe modifying the engine in my 4x4. Ive came across a few posts about head swaps, it has a blown head gasket so i figured if i gotta rip the head off, ill look at my options. So im wondering, for a 4x4, which head swap onto a Z24 is better? also what kind of work am i looking at to make either of those fit up?
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So how did the 4x4 speedo's work if they don't hook to the tranny?