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silroc

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    pittsburgh
  • Cars
    '78 620, '04 STI, '14 Jeep JKU
  • Occupation
    retired electrical engineer

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  1. silroc

    Nissan wheels are on

    Thanks for the replies
  2. I finally got the Nissan wheels and tires put on. It was more of a project than I anticipated. The wheels I bought off craigslist years ago. They were fairly rusty inside and backside so I cleaned those up and painted over the remains of the rust. I tried “Rust Bullet” paint for the first time with mixed results if anyone wants info on that product. On the back inside of the rim it is stamped: J 15x6KK DOT TOPU 216 89 S3.8 NISSAN. Does anyone know for sure what vehicles these would have come on? For the tires it took a bit of looking to find 15” that were cheap. Turns out NTB had some for $62 so I got 205x65 for the rears, 195x65 for the fronts. I don’t need high performance, high speed, high mileage, rain or winter tread – only cheap. So that worked out. I had my local guy mount them and he put the balancing beads inside. My first experience with those, let’s see how that works out. For center caps I found the closest diameter ones I could on Amazon and got creative with adapting. See the pictures – cut them down in height but left little tabs I could bend out. I had some big, hefty Buna-N o-rings that worked perfectly to fill in the gap (1/8”) and hold them tight. [cap cover on front wheel is missing in the pic] The lugs and nuts were a bit of a fiasco. I was kind of going crazy trying to figure out just what I needed. I ordered 12mm x 15thd chrome lug nuts because that is what I measured on the front and all the old lug nuts could be used on any wheel. When it came time to put everything together, I finally understood why I was confused. The rear lugs were 12mmx12.5 which I think are stock. My new chrome nuts did not fit but at least I had some other new clean nuts to use. The fronts are what I had measured the threads on as 12x15, but the new chrome nuts wouldn’t fit those either! However, any of the old nuts would thread on! Turns out the old 12x12.5 nuts had been forced onto the 12x15 lugs and messed them up so the new chrome ones would not thread on. That’s when I got a 12x15 hex thread chaser to fix the lugs. Then the chrome nuts fit fine. I had purchased all new lugs & nuts that I intended to put on until I learned what a PITA it is to swap them. I would still like to put on the new ones eventually as the final result I ended up with seems a little sketchy. Now that it’s all done, I’m not sure how much I really like the look. I’m sad to say I might like the original look better. But that is what I’m used to, hopefully I’ll come around to this – see what kind of reactions I get.
  3. This is exactly what you are not looking for, but thought I'd post anyway. From a Datsun Roadster, splines were the same. Getting that horn button working properly was fun. I think Nissan could have made that more complicated, but they ran out of time and money.
  4. silroc

    620 KC carpeting

    I bought carpet for my 620 from Ardvark motors - made for a 720. I think it was a mistake to get the "mass backing" option ($75), tho I'm not positive what the regular carpet is like. So the carpet had a heavy rubber backing that was formed to fit the tunnel and other floorboard features. Other than just trying to wrestle with the rubber, the main problem was that the tunnel shape was way bigger than the 620 tunnel. I had to add different materials between the tunnel and the carpet to take up the space so it would appear to be a snug fit. And that was on top of the B-quiet matting installed. Overall, it did require a lot of cutting and use of a heat gun to reform the rubber backing to fit/lay flat. Good luck!
  5. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    Mounting close as I can get to the tank and still be able to plumb it. I chose 16AWG wire, should be plenty. I was planning on running it through a switch under the dash. The one I had laying around isn't really heavy duty but I thought surely that pump would only draw around 1 amp. I guess I could add a relay. Thanks for the input.
  6. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    Well, I've started the process of pulling out the tank (to clean and check the non-functioning level sender), checking all rubber hoses (I can see the PO did not put things back together correctly), and... going with a new electric fuel pump by the tank. I fabbed a delete cover plate out of 1/4 SS and will also mount a regulator/pressure gauge on those same studs. Is all this necessary? No, but it's fun!
  7. silroc

    620 tach SOLD

    Time Left: 41 minutes and 26 seconds

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Thanks for the other offers

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Pittsburgh - US

  8. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    If my fuel gauge worked maybe I would have noticed. Probably not. By the way, I have some parts left over someone might want; some duplicates, some parts that were replaced by better ones, and – probably of most interest – I have an NOS tachometer. I decided to go with the $150 SW tach after reading some posts. The Nissan tach I have looks like new, still with its’ box. I bought it years ago on ebay (when they were more affordable). I didn’t test it. Don't know if it's for the older or newer model years. Other parts include L&R door rubber gaskets, windshield gasket, bucket seats (Nissan but not 620), ash tray, inner seat belts [receiver], misc stuff. See pictures. I guess I'll advertise these in the classified section, but I wanted to give first dibs to those who responded to my post. Tach pics
  9. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    Ahh! Mystery of horrendous gas consumption is solved! That makes too much sense. Thanks a lot. One less thing on the list to troubleshoot.
  10. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    3mpg that's correct. When I ran it from the (1 gallon) can, it sucked that down 1 1/2 times around the park, 3 miles. It will suck down that can in 10 minutes just idling. Looking in the window on the front of the carb, the gas level is in the middle of it. I think it is possible to install the new pump if I rotate the camshaft so to be farthest from the arm, and I manually push the arm in/up. But in this condition the arm is already compressed and if I then ran the engine, either the arm or the eccentric would probably be damaged. The old pump installed perfectly without that rigamarole. I'll return that pump to RA (hopefully). In the future, any reasons to not go electric? Yeah, redone 240Z seats - new foam and covers, some black touchup paint. Trying to get the mounting right was a learning experience.
  11. silroc

    After 8 years ...

    ...it's finally out of the garage I’d say the majority of the restoration is done. Of course it's never really done, but Body buffed and waxed: Engine bay cleaned up: Interior restored (obviously not to stock): It runs OK but having some fuel delivery problems. When I hit 3rd gear and 35mph it starts bucking and wants to die. I see a constant stream of air bubbles in the glass fuel filter. If I run it out of a gas can under the hood, I smoothly hit 50mph in 4th gear no problem (albeit slowly). Although it does only get 3mpg and I don’t see any leaking. Seems like it would smoke like a chimney burning that much fuel. Here is the only question I have for the group; During the fuel troubleshooting process, at one point I thought the fuel pump had stopped working (in hindsight I think it was vapor locked because of the hot day). So I ordered a new one from RA, installed it, then discovered this new one truly was not pumping. I removed the valve cover and saw that the pump arm was too short and horizontal – placing it under and beyond the camshaft. The arm was definitely different than the one that was on the motor. See pics Old one installed: New one partially installed: Comparing the two: Finding this hard to believe I contacted the manufacturer (USMotorWorks) to help solve the mystery. They responded after some research but only told me that they have sold these for years without such a problem. Any ideas? Do I have a non-stock camshaft or the eccentric is not installed correctly? I would like to make the new one work as it looks more original (with the screws on top). The one that came with the motor doesn’t look like that, but it works!
  12. I too am curious about the graphics on my truck. However, mine are definitely painted on. It appears to be very well done and, although funky, doesn’t seem funky enough for a one-off custom job. Around the time I saw my truck on ebay, I believe a saw another one with the same paint scheme. So, these two things lead me to think this was a factory option or maybe one dealer in California was doing them. Who knows! I'm just looking forward to someday buffing it all out and shining it up - its all still remarkably intact.
  13. I’m going through this same process so was glad to find this thread. In my case, if I have the bleeder screw removed, I can pump the pedal and squirt fluid. But when I insert the bleeder screw – even just a little – no squirting. It seems as if the master cylinder is working well enough when there is no pressure (open pipes) but the internal cup? is weak and is leaking fluid around it internally if there is back pressure. I went ahead and did the gravity bleed – letting the fluid flow out, then inserted the screw quickly and fully before the reservoir emptied out. But still there is no actuation of the slave cylinder when I pump the pedal and no resistance. I guess the next step is to disassemble the master cylinder, see what’s going on, repair/replace as needed. Unless there are some suggestions to save me from that effort? Are there rebuild kits for the master cylinder or just the whole thing?
  14. Thanks for the advice. Coming from someone with your experience, I take it to heart.
  15. I did a little experiment with all the plugs hooked up at the same time so I could compare the sparks. Here is the video of the cranking (in the dark). https://imgur.com/V8TrdTb https://i.imgur.com/V8TrdTb.mp4 Newbie to Imagur too, don't know why the video link doesn't work like the pic's. Kind of hard to tell if all the sparks are equal. They all seem to spark brighter/dimmer sometimes. But at least they are all firing. Haven't checked the manifold bolts yet. When installing the new pulley, I eye-balled the crank slot and made a mark so I could line up the pulley slot with it. I think its pretty close - I'd say within a 1/32. I figured these engines aren't all that precise!
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