Jonatsun

i found a vaccum leak and my pedal seems weak could either of these be a factor?

the truck is a 79 620 with an L20b weber carb is a 32/36 DGEV from weber carbs direct.com yes idle cut off solenoid and electric choke. the timing is set to stock 44 pin count between punch marks on cam sprocket and crank sprocket. the dizzy is proper also. its something simple i just cant figure it out, ive tuned tons of different carbs in my life its something more than just choke and idle screws.

Ok so before the idle was high ~1300 rpms, so i turned it down to 700 it died, had to look at distributor for timing and one thing led to the next had to reset the timing because guy who did it before was off. Timing is proper now and hitachi carb is having problems so i scrap it for a weber, and now i cant get the rpms below 2000. im having a rough time figuring out what wrong its time to ask for help.

and if anyone knows, im trying to simplify my air rail, the guy kbefore me did some deletion but there are still remants of mine that is causing an air leak somewhere, i sprayed carb cleaner and it came from two spots along the rail. so my question to you guys is what can i delete here?

little late for an update but i got a new master brake cylinder. Also got a new weber installed, i spent to much time rebuilding and trying to get the hitachi to work so i went out and got a weber despite light change in mpg's

the engine runs good, the body is straight all the electrical is good, its in good condition the interior is near as good as it can get. my plans are to make it my way. keep it running to the best of its ability. i want to widen the stance up a bit and redo my steering control to make it stable and low. its already stable enough for alot of guys but i like the look of 620 that are stocky and short like someone with littleman disorder getting out of prison. its my main driven vehicle and i want to keep it that way. its teaching me alot about working on cars, ive even ran a radiator flush and replaced all my coolant lines. Just purchased a new master brake cylinder so its time to get that nice and taken care of considering the one i have now sucks.

I lowered the tail end because at the time i didn't know the center link pitman arm and idler arm was loose so i decided to lower the tail learning that that helps handling, so i did with 3 in blocks on the leaf springs.

hit a pot hole and had my lower control arm mount bolt break off in my frame, the link to the forum ---> http://community.ratsun.net/topic/62747-im-up-shit-creek-need-620-experts/?do=findComment&comment=1103654

after cleaning first thing done was tuning the carb to the best of my ability, then set the timing of the car changed the brakes

I bought this lil peach back earlier this spring. you may have seen it on different 620 pages considering the bizarre and practical help ive needed. http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r576/jonatsun/ratsun1_zpsa9c28e44.jpg

yeah i felt bad so i apologized in advance, but i live with unmechanical people and its my baby, i hope you can understand :/

Jb weld this thing?

Hey guys check this out for a good 620 forum http://community.ratsun.net/topic/63631-fuel-nipple-inlet-help-on-hitachi-dch-340/?do=findComment&comment=1129542 Sorry and thank you

so i was rebuilding my carb (hitachi dch 340) on my 79'. after finishing up and installing it i turn the key, first start its up and running smooth enough but tuning will be needed. i look at my fuel nipple inlet and its spraying fuel, i kill the car and immediately take a further look. I see a hair line crack/puncture from installation. Call up my local auto part scrap yard and they dont have that hitcahi in stock, i call up other auto stores and they cant help me out. Is there a way i can fix this? i thought about soldering the hole shut, i dont know if a patch would be feasible? what does ratsun suggest?

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