cj8281

Hmmm, on mine, I just tapped the two holes going into the intake with a 3/8 pipe tap then threaded in a 3/8 pipe plug with a little bit of puky on them.

Check your oil and see if there is coolant in the oil. Sometimes on a long trip shit will get stirred up, oil will collect at the top of the radiator as it is lighter than the coolant. You might be at the beginning of a head gasket going bye bye. It might just be that a little bit of oil has worked its way from the high pressure passage to the coolant as the coolant is at a lower pressure than the oil. However when you shut off the engine, coolant can now work it's way into the oil passage.

It does not surprise me at all that some valves were tight. When you rebuild a cylinder head you grind the valves a half a degree shallower than you grind the seats. This creates a sharp edge that helps the valves seal initially. This edge breaks down as the valves fully seat and the valve seats a bit deeper in the seat, this causes the valve lash to tighten up.

I would verify that you are getting oil to the spray bar. As others have said, cam and rockers are now scrap. Definite lack of oil. Does the spray bar have metering orifice that might have gotten plugged?

Pistons will not come out of the bottom of most engines as it will hit the main journal webbing. If you replace the connecting rod bolts, you should have the connecting rods reconditioned. When removing and reinstalling the bolts, it subtly changes the shape of the connecting rod end. Not saying it won't work, I wouldn't do it though. Ask any machinist in a performance rebuilding shop. The only bolts I have heard of using a torque stretch bolt are head bolts and those are only on specific engines. The bolts are torqued to a specific poundage and then turned a certain number of degrees, this puts the bolts into what is called the plastic stage were the bolts are stretched. They cannot be retorqued or reused.

You need this one. Has a funny shift pattern but it worked really good. I think I still have the crossmember for it. It did have wood blocks for spacers were it mounted to the body though. I never had any issues with it loosening. This one came out of my '71 510 4 door. Don't know how I could get it to you though as you are in Norway.

Gear and synchro are back together but the nut is done, kaput. It is quite loose on the threads of the main shaft and the threads are pulling. Have to find or make another one.

The nut was loose, the gear was slid out of the syncro, the spines were rubbing on the very ends and now they don't quite mesh now, it won't slip into place. I don't think it will take much with a small file to get them cleaned up.

An inline fuel solenoid, push the button and the solenoid closes the fuel line. Works with mechanical fuel pumps.

The L16, L18 and the early L20B had brass or bronze valve seats in the intakes. The intake valves will actually wear into the seat. Engines with a lot of miles or high amounts of wear can have the intake valves well below the surface of the chamber. This also moves the other end of the valve up away from the head and reduces spring pressure. You can see this by the lash adjuster having little or no travel left. To fix this, the seats need to be removed and new ones installed. Usually the valve guides are also pretty much gone at this point. A rebuild is needed. The later L20B engines had hard intake seats instead of the brass or bronze seats of the earlier heads. On the exhaust seats, the problem is usually pitting that causes them not to seal. Excessive pitting can lead to burning a valve, if run this way for awhile, it can really screw up the seat and possibly cause cracking.

You should also check the head for wear. The head gasket usually wears into the aluminum head and normally should be resurfaced for a proper seal. Also something to check since you mentioned you had a valve that had no adjustment to it. Look down the line of the valve springs, is that one valve spring that has no adjustment left sticking up a bit higher than all of the others? If it is, then that valve is sinking into the head, you might need to have that valve seat replaced. It could also be that that valve is tulliping, meaning that the head of the valve is folding up. Make sure you turn the engine to make sure the cam is not about to open that valve when you check it.

A couple of things to note. A ridge reamer, if needed, is used before removing the pistons. If there is enough of a ridge, it can cause the ring to catch and possibly break the ring land. If there is enough of a ridge (that isn't carbon) then you probably need a re-bore and new pistons. Also don't get carried away with it, if you cut into the cylinder below the ridge you have a good chance of damaging the cylinder which can tear up your newly installed rings. Piston rings, besides checking the end gap you should also check the side clearance of the ring in the groove. Also you can check end gap of the rings at the top (1 inch down from the top or so) and recheck it at the bottom of the cylinder. If the cylinder is in good shape the clearance should be close to the same. A rule of thumb is .004 per inch of bore for ring gap. When honing the cylinders be sure to turn the crank so the counter weights and the rod ends are not in the cylinder to be hit by the hone. Ball hones and spring hones don't actually remove that much material. Rigid hones, however, can be used to change the size of the cylinder. When reinstalling the pistons be sure to cover the rod bolts so you don't accidentally nick the crank journal. There are some special caps that are made but you can use pieces of rubber fuel line to cover the rod bolts. I usually make them about 2 inches longer than the amount needed to cover the end of the bolts to help guide them onto the rod journal. I usually have to cut the sides down so that the crank will fit between them. After cleaning the head surface of the block, clean the head bolt hole out and run a tap down each hole. Blow them out to clear any chips out. Make sure you lightly oil the threads of the head bolts before installing them. This will help you get a more consistent torque.

oic Main nut had been staked, twice already, now it is jacked up. The 5th gear and the syncro won't mesh now because it rubbed so much. I will try and lightly file the ends to see if that will clean it enough to slip together. The nut has to be replaced. All of the rest of the bearings and gears look great. Housing inside looks really clean. Still have no idea what happened to the other 4 speed that I changed bell housings on. So what is this worth with new seals and all of that?

Yeah but I do need to take it apart to see why it does not shift into 5th. If that is not the diesel front case then maybe it got scrapped as I can find no other transmissions for datsuns. This transmission maybe the one out of the 79 620 that I had.

I found my 5 speed. It was out in a friend's barn still. this one measures 26¼ inches long. Oh, the reason I couldn't find the shifter is because I had left it in the transmission. The first transmission I will pull apart and see if it is a 4 speed or 5 speed. I did have a 720 that was a diesel that had a cracked head. I replaced the motor with an L20B, to use the diesel 5 speed that was in it, I pulled the front housing off of a 4 speed and swapped them. Worked fine. The first transmission is possibly that 4 speed with the diesel front case. I will try and match it up to my L20B block.