mike_dmt

So, the question remains, should we rebuild it? I tried to adjust it, but was able to turn the air/fuel screw all the wai on to the seat, and it still ran... lol

Spokane. Yeah, someone before us got in there and messed around. There's quite a few hoses and lines that are plugged off or removed. I need to lay my hands on a vacuum line schematic.

Thanks. Anyone else want to weigh in?

First of all, I was hoping someone could identify it for me. I'm helping my nephew with his first "real" project, which is his "new to him" '79 620, and if you've seen my other posts, I'm more of a muscle car guy, and the older Datsun stuff is new to me. I like it, for sure, I've always wanted a 510. Second, you'll note that what looks like an air rail on the exhaust has been disconnected, and there are open ports on the manifold under the carb. Can we just delete it, or what? There looks like a bracket by the crank pulley where a pump might have lived, but she ran away from home from the looks of it... So, we we're hoping to adjust the air/fuel mixture to not only make it run better, but it wont idle for very long. He's had to learn the heel/toe technique. Good for racing, but gets old for everyday driving. Big question is: Is it worth rebuilding for the price of the kit, or should we just get a Weber? Thanks for any ideas and advice in advance

Lower for sure. He's going to run a little lawn business out of it, so I'll probably just block the rear a little. These just have torsion bars in front though, right?

As far as checking a plug, I'll have the neph pop one out. He's got a few other things to do too. It needs a few maintenance things done, change the oil, change out the thermostat and the upper hose, stuff like that. Not to mention wash the dang thing. The guy he got it from probably hadn't since he bought it..

I'm trying to figure out how to post that pic. What am I missing here?

Thanks for the welcome. I have 1 pic, for now. She's obnoxiously high in the back....

Thanks ggzilla. I will bring that up with my neph in the future. Its his first real project, and I don't want a job like that on me right now. It sounds like the forum will have plenty of info on that, when we get to it. It seems like an extraordinary amount of parts interchange on these rides. I'm actually getting pretty stoked on it.

But, troll? No. I don't have time for that.

I apologize. To say I was unwilling to search isn't quite true. I've been on here for a few hours before I posted, and a little bit after. It seems everyone seems to skip factory carb posts, and go right to aftermarket topics. Brakes are simple enough. I was just giving a little history. By kits I was referring to a dual carb setup with a stroker crank and a big-bore piston kit. Admittedly, I have no idea what these are capable of. I just came across an article saying from the factory they were somewhat low compression to start with, so decking the block and getting some more compression was fairly effective. Not to mention a cam.

So. I'm admittedly new to this forum, and completely ignorant to what KA motor or DET motor would swap into a 620. Sounds cool. I like stuff like that. Off topic, I have a 61 Falcon that I'm eventually going to drop this 2.4 turbo motor and T-5 into (out of a Fox body mustang). It'll handle 25+ pounds of boost in stock form, easy on a completely forged bottom end from the factory. It'll be a PITA, for sure. But it's a huge upgrade from an anemic 'ol iron motor. It'll make 350 or so with a stand alone ECU. But then, not unlike your 620, I have to consider brakes and suspension. Not to mention its a unibody (I know the 620 is on a frame, relax). You would think the turbo 4 is lighter than the original 6 and an automatic? Nope, probably 150 pounds heavier. And the rearend is frail. No biggie, I'll get a 9" narrowed. But we're talking about your truck that little 4 cylinder is a paperweight compared to a SBC, aluminum or not. Here's where common sense comes in. Say you did drop in something like an LS1, and a 4l60e. For the price difference, and convenience, why go old-school SBC and carburated? Then you're almost 3k in parts with the ECU, TCU, etc... . Now, make it hook up, unless you just want to melt a set of 225's every weekend. I would guess you want to use the power you just invested in. Mini tub or more. $1500 with a rearend and 4 -link, or better, if you did it yourself. Not counting wheels and tires.... oof. Now you're around $4500, sitting on donuts. Exhaust, $4-600. I'd do cut-outs now that you have me thinking. Brakes. That thing will be a rocket. There are kits... Again, I'm ignorant. But let's be honest, what are they around $7-800? OK. So $5000 is a starting point. Mostly for parts. Not counting the 50 trips to the parts store. Do you have the ability to rack this truck up in a shop for a few months somewhere? Are you doing it all yourself? No? How much do you have budgeted for the fab time you can't do yourself? I like the enthusiasm, but how many of these replies have hinted that comparable projects never get finished. I didn't say started on, that's a whole different story, we've all done that. I obviously don't know you at all, so please don't take post this wrong. For all I know you have a crew of buddies that can knock this list out. But it almost sounds like you need $7k minimum to even think about starting. Like I said, I'm brand new to this board. But I have had a number of cars. Lots. Some modded, some not. At the end of the day, there's the fact that a vehicle is only worth what you can sell it for. Like I said above, I've got a sweet old Falcon that put together in sweet shape is worth $5000 or so. Do I drop $7k on the running gear? Not from an investment point of view. It's just money down the drain. But, still, I get it if your 620 is your baby. We've all propbably gone down that road. But, if it was me, I'd start with effective mods that you can finish without too many crazy variables. Maybe a stroker kit and dual carbs on the stock motor? That'll be almost as fun. And keep start scouring Craigslist or something until you have all your parts rounded up for the big build. Not trying to take the jam out of your donut here. But the old saying goes,: "Figure out what it will cost in cash and time, then double it. Then double it again."

And can you guys give me a link or two for some old school style rims? 6 Lug seems to narrow the options some. The steelies gotta go.

My neph was dying to pick up an early(ish) Datsun pickup. Lo and behold, my new neighbor a few houses down just so happened to have one to sell. And, the kid bought it two hours ago. '79, 5-speed. Rust free and reasonably straight. I like it a lot too, but to be honest, I'm a muscle car guy and this will be a new thing for me. My little bit of research says its the L20B, 2.0. FS5W71B trans. Makes an incredible 110 H.P..... Did I mention I mostly wrench on muscle cars? Bu 110? Thats a baseline I could live without.. Don't hate... I see kits that'll double the output of the 2.0 without a turbo or supercharger. So, I have driven it a little. Brakes suck(no biggie). The engine, for the most part runs and sounds solid, but idles like crap. He's on a budget, so I'd like to get him by for a while with the stock carb. I'm pushing for the Weber upgrade, but there's a few things to square away first. Can anyone hit me with the base carb settings? I've got decent experience tuning on the big V-8's, but its nice to have a starting point. Vacuum routing and what I can delete? Symptoms are: Starts cold without any choke... I don't think it's supposed to do that.. Rich on the low side maybe? Wont idle for more than 15-20 seconds without pedal input. I've seen an anti-deisel thing on these carbs..... Could that interfere? No power over half throttle. Points to a rich setting again, in my mind. Pops pretty good decelerating off throttle. Sounds cool with aftermarket exhaust, but the little guy is fairly bone stock. Been on auto forums a thousand times, but I was looking to save the hours and hours of searching. Thanks in advance. I appreciate the help. MikeD