Curt

hogie was his name. Farmer picked it up to bring to him.

It was me that had it I believe. Guy up in springfield took it.

There is oil in the pump. It's 10/30.

Ok, this thing is ready to go back in the truck. The trans is still in the truck and it was a bitch getting the motor out without the trans connected to it, it would hang up really bad on the center link/oil pan. Is the best way going to be to pull the trans and put the engine and trans in mated together? Thanks for the help...

Well, I was wrong. lol. https://www.kimballmidwest.com/Catalog/MarketingText/Torque%20and%20Tightening.pdf I think some of what I said is where it actually gets the readings.

Wayno, I think you're making it more complicated than it actually is. A torque wrench measures friction or the torque value at the point of contact between two surfaces. I don't see the angle of the thread making any difference because the value of friction between the two surfaces is what the torque wrench is reading making the angle of contact irrelevant. However, in theory the "lever" in this case the torque wench would rotate less at the end to reach the torque value with a coarse thread as the pitch is more pronounced causing greater leverage and rotate further with a fine thread to reach the same torque value as the pitch leverage is less pronounced. This is just a guess from what little I remember from Physics but I think it is correct.

Sweet, I'll leave it be then. I was going to prime it with the ground down distributor drive shaft trick. I still need to have the flywheel surfaced and get that all squared away so it'll be a bit before it gets fired up. I was thinking of priming the oil sooner rather than later though.

I've got the head on. timing kit on. At tdc the timing plate mark is slightly to the left of the notch in the cam pulley. like halfway. It's on pin position 2 and everything is lined up correctly. Is this because the block and head were decked? Should I try and find a pin location that is closer? My gut says it's fine but with the possibility of having L18 pistons in there I don't want to destroy it on startup.

I've got two of the napa gaskets. I put both hollow dowels in there. The gasket still wiggles around. I'm gonna clean the threads once more and clean the deck, then install it. Hopefully it'll be fine.

I've got them both in there. You can still shift the gasket around when them like that. I'll just be careful when I put the head on and not move it around and shift the gasket as little as possible.

Alright, thanks guys. It's right at the outer chamfer edge so I think it'll be fine. It was one of the napa gaskets. How do I keep it from shifting around when I put the head on. If it wiggles just a bit parts of the ring slide into the bore more.

Got two more head gaskets. They were nos napa made in japan. Victor reinz from rock auto apparently. One was almost wide enough but still in the chamfer in a few spots. I guess my options are the nismo gasket or the datsport gasket? I remember seeing someone had a post for custom gaskets but I can't find it now. Can anyone chime in on the datsport gasket that has ran it? It's about half the cost of nismo gasket. I'm hoping this is the correct gasket? http://www.courtesyparts.com/head-gasket-p-622284.html

Well, my lady friend is a developmental psychopathologist. She would say a big nope on those games. Countless studies have shown they are very bad for the developing brains of children. I'm not here to argue with anyone either, or have a debate as I'm just giving you a third person answer. She could go on and on about that stuff all day. After all, she holds 3 degrees and a graduate degree on the subject. At the very least have a long open conversation about the reality of violent games. I remember one study she told me about where they used virtual reality headsets showing people eating food. The subjects in the study felt full and some became violently ill because the brain thought it was eating. Go with knowledge instead of feelings. Also, kids will grow out of friends as they age. It won't be a big deal to "not be cool" in the long run.

Ok, so the metal filter in the block under the pcv tube was rusted out to hell. It had huge holes in it and I assumed it is just to prevent splashing. Here is the deal, I ordered what I thought was the right replacement part for it but it is made of a cotton type material. I assume this would go in the air cleaner housing from the valve cover vent. My gut feeling is this does not go in place of the metal screen that was in the bottom end. So what exactly can I use down there to replace the screen that was there? Can I leave it screen-less and just put the plate back in?

Be nicer rather than a dick, unless you are willing to actually pull the car out and risk losing your money it will just cause trouble and or shitty work. Hiring a lawyer and going to court will cost more than 3 grand to get your money back. Tell the shop it's lined up to go to a fabricator shortly after the 20th so it needs to be done by then. Or any other believable story to give them a firm deadline. Good luck, I'm sure it will turn out fine.