Datsun620longbed

So I think I found all the bushings I need I just would like confirmation that they are the ones I'll need for my front end component. [bushings] Upper & Lower control arm bushings Stabilizer bushings Stabilizer bar end links Tie rod assemblies (seems easier/better to replace the whole part rather than the bushings them selves.) Again all I need is the confirmation that these are all of them, any other input and/or advice is greatly appreciated. Random question only because I'm tired of my girlfriend bragging about her Hyundai being soooooooooo much faster when I know it's just my gearing being short as hell. Can a Z transmission bolt up to my L20B or would I need an adapter plate?

Truck is up and running once again. Now can anyone help me out with the bushings for my front end? I need all of em considering the previous guy has it all pretty much ghetto rigged. If someone could give me a complete list or link for the bushings I'll need and how many that'd be great. Also does anyone know how I could get a set of 15x12 wheels to work without rubbing on my fenders when I turn?

Those are the instructions I followed when I put it back and this is where it got me. I just tried what you said, Back the Idle scew all the way out and set the mixture screw exactly 2 turns out and it fired up and ran for a good 10-15 seconds like a tractor and then it sputtered out and died and wouldn't start again.

Hi, so since no one was repying to my main thread I figure I'd start a new one for that reason. My current issues as to why I'm not cruising around in my 620 is the carb. Currently I have a Weber 32/36 DGEV on my truck and recently my auto teacher who is great with carburated motors told me to take my carb off and reset my primary barrel because it wasn't closing fully, but after I fixed that and got it back on my truck and did some adjustments to the mixture screw and idle screw the thing won't start or idle unless the choke is wide open. I think it might be a vacuume leak, but I put gasket sealer on the gasket the carb goes on top of and I checked the vac hose connected to the carb and all seems well. At this point I am stumped and don't know what the problem is. Maybe just a simple rebuild will fix it or do I need a new carb? Any help is greatly appreciated! thank you in advance!

Guys I still need help finding the bushings for my font end. Can anyone help me?

I'm pretty sure I have all those wires but I'll look and see when I get a chance, but I had my friend look at it and he is going to see how much it would cost me to have his shop by pass the external VR and go to a stronger internally regulated alt.

The Alt is a hitachi and on auto zones website in the link above it says in the notes about it that it's externally regulated. The last time I started my truck, the voltage regulator started smoking so that's what tells me it's fried. When my truck is running I only get 12.5? sometimes it says 13.?? but if I turn an electronic on, brake lights, head lights, etc. the multimeter reads it at 12.56-7 and drops slowly, also when it's running and I look at the brake light on the dash it dims and brightens. When you say the voltage regulator needs to be grounded, do you mean the ground wire from the negative battery cable has to be touching it or the voltage regulator has to be touching the body? because I put a rubber washer in between the voltage regulator and that ground wire, also I didn't have the washer there when the voltage regulator started smoking.

Yes, I bought the alt from auto zone here's a link to the part on their website: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-import-alternator/nissan-datsun/620/1977/4-cylinders-2-0l-2bl-sohc/334250_29983_10259/ I might take it to one of my friends who works at a shop that specializes in this stuff, see what he says, but I think I need to run some continuity tests one the wires running to the voltage reg just to be sure.

So I got a new voltage regulator AGAIN and either it doesn't work, it already fried, or my wire(s) is/are bad. I'm frustrated at this point. I even replaced the ground wires. Alternator is new, VR is new, battery cables are fairly new and same with the battery. I have no clue at this point; does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? What would fry the Voltage Regulator when I first start my truck after installing it? Battery was charged before hand.

Googled it and there is about 1,001 options on alt swaps. 240sx alt, aultima, saturn, etc. But no one said which was best. aultima has a 100amp alt but is time consuming and seems difficult but the saturn alt has 90amp and seems like less work. which one is best in my situation?

What all do I need for this swap? Alt and what else? I'd like to get started on this soon because this truck is my daily and don't really have anything else YET.

So besides not playing music, is there a way to fix this problem?

Can somebody help me figure out why my truck is frying voltage regulators? I just replaced the voltage regulator last Thursday and I went out again. Has anyone elose had this problem? I think it might have something to do with my Kenwood stereo and speakers because it went out after I played music in my truck without it running.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/4875592764.html How well would these wheels work on my truck? Would I need spacers? rolled fenders or fender flares I want to do one of the two so that's not a problem.

Yeah it already leans a noticeable amount already. Does anyone know of any shops in the Milwaukie or Portland area I could get this done at? Also, can anyone tell me how much coolant/water I should have in my radiator? It looks low to me and I can't find anything on it.