BagelsAndDatsuns

cool, i'll inspect the acceleration pump and consdier a new one, they have themm at pegasus racing for 13 bucks. You are totally right when I give the throttle a nice slow transistion in rarely bogs.

Here's an update! First off: the vaccum leak was at the bottom of the intake manifold-fixed that. Second off: I will never buy a used carb again! Mike was very right about "not caring for someone's old carb." so it took me a while now to get it all dialed up but the weber redline website instructions were very helpful and it is running well. The choke was not responding correctly and it is currently left permenantly in the disengaged position until I further try to adjust it and/or take off the coil to see what shape it's it. That being said, it needs 2 or 3 minutes of rough idle before it smooths out and runs well. The only problem I am having now is when I give it full throttle it stutters and hesitates before it catches up with itself and accelerates. When driving conservatively you would not even notice this problem but when ever I punch the gas pedal it lags for 1-3 seconds then speeds up (pretty fast, faster than with the stock carb). At first I thought that it was Vaccum advance related but I found a thread in which the ratsun elders seem to debunk that a poor vaccum sigal from the distributer could be causing high RPM hesitation. the EGR is currently on the car(meaning i didnt take it off and block the port) however I do not think I have the vaccum lines set up correctly, I just have everything capped for now. If anyone has a picture of thier 84 z24 (non calif) with a Weber and The EGR on and running that shows me how to get my Vac lines as minimalistically hooked up while still running the EGR that would be great and really helpful! right now I just have the advance to the distrbuter from the port on th carb and everything else is capped. all thay said; problems are hesitation at full throttle and I need some directions on the proper vac line set up to run my EGR. Thank you everyone! -Dave

Hey all, So I fgured I'd give an update. I found a vacuum leak in the carb base gasket as well as the EGR gasket. A mechanic friend of mine has been trying to sell me a weber he had for a while and I figured as long as I'm doing the gasket why not buy the carb and get it all set up in one motion. SO I DID. I must admit that the Weber 32 36 does make my 720 a bit faster however the truck is still idling poorly and since I've combined troubleshooting the idling problem with putting a diffrent carb on I don't know if its the carb or if there is another vaccum issue or if it is just something else..... The gaskets I changed definetly altered thhe iidle. Before it would barely stay running, now it does, but it is very sloppy. I've deleted a bunch of the vaccum lines and juut kept the neccesary ones t keep the EGR hooked up as well as the Vaccum advance and the charcoal casisiter stuff (The 3 metal tube rails that incllude the vacuume advance). I think my carb is installed correctly and I suspect I still have a vaccum leak. I will keep looking this weekend. A question about my new carb though: I am using an import direct inline fuel pump from Oreily that I've had on for a while now, Is it possible that it is flooding the weber? Should I be using a pressure regulater??? I can smell gas in the cab when I turn over the engine and I hear some surging in the rough idling. Also I have'nt driven it a lot but it seems like it's using more gas than usual. If ya'll think a pressure regulater might have a positive outcome I can pick one up right away and put it it, otherwise any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave

Thanks guys! I'll have to keep looking for the problem. Hall Monitor, I haven't tried the starter fluid test yet; I was confused as to where to start with it but I am familiar with the teqnnique and you gave me a good starting spot-The intake and carb gaskets. I'll go pick up a fire extinquisher before I try this out... Mike, Thanks for pointing me away from the TVV, i'll clean the current one and put it back in without the high hopes of it fixing my problem. As for the EGR; what is the best way to clean the ports? carb or brake cleaner would work? Thanks, Dave

Hi, I can't get a photo to upload. In another thread you told a guy that it is a "temp sensistive vacuum bleed" and referred to it as a TVV later in the caption.

Here is a photo. Its the 3 port thing that has "Vac line C" comming out of the top port which goes to the bottom of the air cleaner box.

Hey Guys, My 84 720 z24 with orig carb is idling poorly. It starts okay and idles fine with the choke closed but once it heats up and the choke opens it idles very poorly. I've already changed the PCV valve and checked the EGR and AB Valves. I've ruled out most things non-vacuum as well. I noticed that the little brownish red ported Vacuum switch that has a line going out to under the air cleaner box is not giving me any suction both with the choke closed at initial heat up and with the choke open during the poor idle. I assume it should be open sometime, but when? I'm thinking that it is stuck shut. could this be the reason for the poor idle?? I figured I'd post about it cause its $50 and thats alot to spend on a hunch! I'm off this weekend and look forward to getting under the hood tomorrow. All help is always greatly appreciated! -Dave

Hey, Great advice. The plug for the idle mixture screw had already been removed. I took out the screw and spring and sprayed cleaner in as you said, replaced the removed screw and went to the cab to start it up to burn off the cleaner as the back of the can said to do, when I turned the key there was fuel in the carb, I could see it in the little glass window, I ran the engine for about 25 seconds when it stalled; this confused me because it hadn't been stalling out this quickly! After I let the Fuel pump on Accessory in the cab for a minute I checked the carb window and there was no fuel in there!!! Now I think the whole problem may be due to a sticking float. You were certainly right, its a fuel issue and not a spark issue, Thank you! I'm off to work until Friday when I get back to the truck. I'll clean the jets like you recommended as well as check to see if the idle solenoid is functioning correctly(i need a 2nd set of hands or ears to check that) but I think all signs point to a sticking float. Is the replacement of the float reasonable to do while the carburetor is still on the engine, or should I plan to remove it?? Thanks for your help. I'll get back to the thread hopefully with a running truck Dave

Hey All, I come to the forum with my stalling 84 2wd 720. I stalled out on me last week, I let it sit for 20 mins and got it home (50 miles) with no issues. this happened again a few days ago and after letting it sit a while got it home and started trouble shooting. It was due for an oil change so I did it, checked the fluids, got new distributor cap, Wires, plugs, and cleaned the distributor rotor. Once it got back up to normal running temp it stalled again....I had a lot more trouble getting it started, so I had it towed home. It's getting fuel, the pump, filter and relay are quite new and appear to be functioning perfectly well. I had an odd hunch that the ignition coil was going, so I changed it; still has same problem. It runs fine when cool and when it gets to normal running temp it just gets weak and pumping the gas does nothing until it eventually stalls. The first thing I do is jump out and see if the electric fuel pump is on which it is. Oh and the alternator, and battery test fine. I think it is a spark related but I'm not sure. Does anyone know if these are signs of needing a new distributor??? Anyone have any experiences with a distributor only failing once it has heated up??? Thanks, Dave stuck on my bike in Portland (which isn't that bad) PS, My dad insists that it's vapor lock, but I drove the truck all summer last year with no issues...

hmmmm. I changed the busted fuse for the brghts and also changed the fuse for the low beams. Everything works great now, I've never changed a fuse that wasnt broke before. I'll keep in mind that old fuses can cause problems. thanks again, Dave

One of the fuses is certainly burned out. The other one looks good, I'll replace them both and get back to you with the result. suspect my brights will be working just fine. Thanks

nothing happens...

Hi, I've got a dim right head light on my 84 720. I tried putting new headlamps and that did nothing. Also the inner headlights (the brights I guess) don't seem to work at all. I was told something about a capacitor being faulty, any one know anything? Thanks, Dave

Hi everyone, I'm now the onwer of an 84 720, very proud. any reccomendations for what kind of oil to use? it's got 168k on it. Thanks