iancshafer

Setup: Stock 510 front discs and rear drums Symptom: After driving and not using breaks for a bit, will lose pressure in the breaks and need to pump once to get it back. Here is what I have done so far: 1) Replaced master break cylinder with OEM. inspected the master cylinder, noted there were air bubbles in the front reservoir and assumed the seals in the piston were shot. 2) bled the breaks using vacuum suction in follow order. Rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. 3) gravity bled all breaks at the same time, while keeping reservoir filled 4) checked for leaks, found none. Still needs one good pump to regain full pressure. Thoughts?

Here are the before and after - installed the right t/o assembly. The bearings do look a little different, but i am guessing that is normal per Mike's earlier comment about them being the same and the T/O collars are different. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFXomNCkdI-ekhSTXFYX0FYRVE Here are some pics of the car, we do endurance racing with her mostly 24 Hrs of Lemons. We are racing at Millville, NJ NJMP on May 14-15th if you are in the area! https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFXomNCkdI-aDRvZWJ3dUU4VVE https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFXomNCkdI-RlU5TkRCYzZKT1E https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFXomNCkdI-RjQyZW5PeUJuSXM https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFXomNCkdI-bUk1ZEVmT01CWEk

Put in the 510 throw out bearing vs the 280zx throw out bearing. I mistakenly thought the t/o bearing was matched to the trans vs. the pressure plate.

Thanks gents, worked like a charm! Clutch is nice a tight now, shifts like a dream.

That's assuming I have the old part, sadly we tossed the old t/o bearing assembly. Need to start digging around the shop. Lesson learned.

Question for you Mike, I was a bit baffled by this and it turned out one of my team members modified the clutch fork by drilling a hole in it to accommodate the slave push rod. Do you foresee any issues with this?

Many thanks! First transmission swap, appreciate the help. Will give it a try next weekend.

It was the 5 speed

I bought a new throw out bearing for the 5 speed. I may have got this wrong, but thought the clutch pressure plate is mates to the engine and the throw out bearing is specific to the trans.

I did a swap from the four speed, to an FS5W71B. I kept the original clutch and pressure plate, bought a new throw out bearing and clutch fork for the new FS 5W71B. It had an L engine housing already and bolted straight on. I can reverse and get into first gear, but when I going to higher gears at higher rpm's the clutch slips. I have tried to adjust the clutch adjustment bolt thinking I needed more pressure on the clutch to the pressure plate, maybe I haven't found the sweet spot? Any advice appreciated.

I swapped a bad distributor on my 510 L18 with a d4a2-01 hitachi, but the old cap doesn't fit. The new distributor's body is slightly wider... Anyone have the part number for the cap that fits the d4a2-01?

Thanks Mike.. Agreed on all points. I found at the last track, lots of hard lefts, rights, lightbulbs, etc. that the ratio with the 4 speed was lacking... Downshifting to 2nd would put me at the top of the power band in most corners (e.g., 5500+ RPM), with little gain in terms of speed coming out, and then shifting to third would drop the RPMs (around 4000 RPM) and lose what little speed i gained as the RPMs picked up. Having 3, close ratio gears (e.g., 2-4), I think would help significantly on the tight, curvy tracks, with lower RPM drops and helping to stay in the power band.

Awesome.. I think I am going to go with the 71 and it is a really good deal too. Dime & quarterly also has a really nice write up on how to rebuild them, so that is another plus for a noob like me. Thanks all.. Really appreciate the advice.

Thanks for the info. I race with Lemons/Chump, so needs to hold up over a 24 hr period with a constant beating from 4-6 drivers. So since I blew up two transmissions in the race this past weekend (snychro keys poping out and jamming synchro), I know I need something beefier. I went from the 13" rims to 14" and am running a 195/60. Thanks to some feedback here, thinking the added power and increased wheel width is the culprit. So the FS5W63 dogleg is a contender and I have a lead on one as well, but read a few posts that it wasn't that strong either? Maybe strong enough for my application? My real concern with it is the pattern, I bet someone will drop it in 1st. Since most of the tracks we stayed in 3rd the whole time, I doubt we'd hit 5th as well. But a solid 2-4 ratio with a wicked strong tranny would be a bonus.

Thanks Mike. The guy claims it is from a 83 280zx, will ask him to check the rotations. What do you think about this for a stock 4spd swap in my endurance racer 510? L18, .490 cam, 40mm Mikunis. Good match? Eating up 4spds.