PAwelder

she squealed long enough the one morning and i managed to get under neath and see whats going on. By pushing the fork and compressing the slave, moving the t/o bearing away from contacting the fingers the noise stops and also going the opposite direction and applying pressure to the t/o bearing it goes away as well, so i can now say that it is the throw out bearing making noise.

thats a good idea, i attempted to jiggle the arm today right after i started it, it ended up going away before i could drag my self under the truck. Ill rig something up tonight and test it next year after it sat for a night. Happy new year members of Ratsun!

i double checked the shaft through the fire wall and its loose when the pedal is fully out. as for the slave it doesnt leak fluid, but say you were under the truck and you pushed it back in a little, it would slowly creep its way back out until it hit the arm again and then stop once it was resting on the arm it almost seems like its got the weight of the fluid on top of it and thats what is applying the pressure. and as for your question a few posts back wayno i never did pull the front cover off the trans, which i am now kicking myself for. once everything is checked and correct with the clutch, if the noise is still there i will be dropping the trans promptly with new bearings in hand

ok, so i checked the play on the pedal and it is at least a 1/16th if not 1/8. when i did the trans i used the new t/o bearing sleeve that came with the clutch kit, now the clutch kit is a 4x4 clutch kit and the trans is a 2wd trans. not sure if that would make a difference. so literally 10 minutes ago i was bleeding my slave cylinder because when i was pushing on it during lunch today it some how got air into it. while i was bleeding it noticed there is no stop on the slave piston if let go it will creep its way all the way out of the cylinder till fluid comes out. i think it is a cheaper after market part so im not sure if it is supposed to be like that. Here are the requested photoshad to include a picture of the old girl

I got underneath her during my break at work and i noticed the t/o bearing fork has no play in it. Is there a way to adjust the tension at the pedal? Or will i have to drop the tranny?

so i seem to be hitting a rough patch with my nissan. A little over a month ago i had to replace my trans, so i did and i replaced everything in the clutch area as well, from rear main to the t/o bearing. well two weeks after that she blew a head gasket, which i had done once before, incorrectly i may add, so it wasnt a big deal this time, a few hours searching around ratsun learning how to do it right then two nights after work and shes running like a top. so here is my latest issue and hopefully one of you guys can shed some light on the issue. she started squealing when i first start her up in the morning, but only in neutral with the clutch out. even the slightest tap on the clutch will stop the squealing till you let off pressure. after a little bit it will go away. maybe im paranoid but the last time i ignored noises my counter shaft broke in half. i have looked through a lot of threads and i have a few ideas of what it might be. i put 75w-140 royal purple in my trans, it was the only one i could find at the auto parts stores that was yellow metal safe, is that too heavy of an oil for it and if so what is a good replacement? second is the throw out bearing, i didnt realize you were suppose to grease the bearing itself i just greased the inside and the parts that touched the fork. i dont think this is it because the squeal goes away when you put pressure on the t/o bearing. im kinda stumped at this one. and i will figure out how to post pics on this thread so you guys can see my 720.

got her back back on the road as of last night! the rear main popped right out using the wood screw trick, but then i messed the new one up because a little ripple along the outer edge didnt want to go in the hole, so i found a new one and did it right. i didnt read the posts fast enough and didnt put any rtv on the seal, i guess we will see if she leaks. anyway thank you every one so much for all your help, me and my nissan really appreciate it!

i need to drill a few pilot holes in the steel inside the seal for the screws to start right?

yeah i assumed it would just push in, i just cant figure out how to get it out. i tried prying on it and it wouldnt move is there a tool or a trick to this style seal to remove them? if not, the kit did come with side curtains so i can drop the pan and remove the bearing cap if need be, its only the shaft seal thats leaking

my bad i should clarify i am talking about the z24 engine rear main not the transmission rear main, i figured while i was down there i might as well do everything

got my tranny!!! the original guy i wrote about ended up not having it, so i used that website again and found one 100 miles in a different direction, right on the other side of philly. but anyway i attempted to get the rear main off and between the rain, cold, and frustration i gave up. do i need to drop the oil pan to get the rear main seal out, there are no bolts or flange plate but i can see there is an insert that is half of the circle then decends down the block to where i forms a seal with the oil pan gasket i cant see any bolts for it or anything.

847204wheel you may have saved the day! That website is awesome! I called a place about 2 hours or so away that said they had a 2 wheel drive trans, called a little too late though so i wont know for sure till tomorrow (crossing multiple fingers) its an 86 2 wheel trans with supposedly less than 60,000 miles, im gonna have the guy count the splines on the output shaft just incase. as for my original plan i got about half way through the transmission, and given enough diligence and patience i think i could have seen it through, but there was so much potential for one thing to be wrong and i would have wasted money and time, some things are better left to the experts i guess. however i now can visualize the inside of my transmission in my mind and understand what each part does which i couldnt do before! hands on learning is the best learning.

I did hear a noise but it was a low growling noise, it matched the description of the front counter bearing failing exactly, when the bearing failed and the shaft snapped it chewed into the aluminum in one spot at the very front right next to the lowest of the three shift rod holes it stayed out side by 2 mm or so. I think the damage is cosmetic and will not affect anything, the main shaft was fine because it was not run for long after it failed, and honestly finishing the drive home when it went in fourth gear sounded completely normal. However when i completely disassemble to clean i will scrutinize the case and the shaft heavily for defects and damage, are there any spots in particular i should check extra heavily And it is a z24 so thats good

Ok cool im gonna start tearing down my transmission after work today and cleaning every piece extremely well, the best deal i found was a 2wd long shaft, if i buy that i should be able to take the counter shaft and the main shaft gears and put them into my short shaft case and tail, the only difference should be first gear which is taller, am i on the right track, also is the taller first gear going to be noticably taller or just a little bit

ok so the cluster gears are different between the short and long shafts, which in turn makes all the gears different, would it be possible to put the long shaft main gears on the short shaft main shaft? or are the shafts slightly different too? sorry for all the questions im just trying to figure out all my options