Toasteee

yeah it looks like it's leaking where the coolant leaves the intake manifold and returns to the block, wasn't leaking before because the feed in was plugged

You're always giving great help! thanks! as for the coolant leak...since the intake manifold gasket is responsible for sealing those coolant return holes, a new one should solve that problem I hope, I HATE when OEM's use either manifold to seal coolant passages...even the almighty 4G63 uses the exhaust manifold to seal a coolant passage... When I started her up with the new carb I got crazy amounts of smoke from the block breather tube, I hope it was because it was sitting for a while and the overly rich initial startup, I plan on taking the catch can off my S2K and using it on the truck. /rant

I searched and searched before making this thread please don't skin me alive!!! :hairy: I have a 72 620, recently installed weber 32/36, it came with electric choke, my truck never did, can I convert it to use my existing manual cables? or is it better to add whatever wiring it would take to make it work? what will it take? 2nd, I have a coolant leak now that the intake manifold is back on, I replaced ALL lines under hood and found the previous owner had a plug in the coolant line that goes into the intake manifold, can I safely block this off since I live in Southern California? ( I'm assuming this line is to keep the fuel from puddling in cold weather?) 3rd, I currently have a FACET electric fuel pump that weber does not recommend using,I am going to replace it, will this one work? It looks like the PSI is correct....how about the flow rating? My link Thanks!!!

nice! please don't paint the block ;)

I went last month for the first time and was impressed with the random stuff for sale, there would be a Coors light neon sign next to a Model A short block next to a vacuum cleaner all under the same tent. On the swap meet side it's 90% domestic 9% "foreign" and 1% Japanese,I went last month trying to find 620 parts and there were none. That being said I will be there sunday. The lowrider display alone is worth the trip :) I did see that cantilevered 620 from this site there for sale, seems like nobody will buy it yet, it's ALWAYS on the local CL.

yes the L20 would need even more fuel than an L20B... :D :P

yes the rear bumper is coming off next....but the hooks will probably stay because this truck is going to be used to haul stuff regularly, unless I can find a better option for some recessed hooks or something. edit: I'll take pictures of everything I've used so far if anyone wants to duplicate anything, used basic buffing compound and an orbital buffer for the paint, some $9 / can bedliner, and stained glass paint for the headlights.

Chihuahua/Wolf hybrids :rolleyes: I have no idea really they were both from the shelter.

Just a little update.... Buffed out paint, painted front grill, hood and wheels semi-gloss black, also sprayed in bed liner, painted inside two lights yellow, also lowered 3" front and back, still need to lower another 1" or so in the front but it looks SO much better to me now. I've never had a car since my 90' eclipse GSX that I enjoy looking at so much this truck has so much character. I also removed the huge mirrors and am considering fender mirrors if I can find the correct style. Also got a sweet Mooneyes heavy shift knob that I forgot to take pics of. Also picked up the front datsun emblem inside door handles and electronic dizzy at the DHM swapmeet/show today! PICS!: :P First Day I brought her home: Current:

forgot to add I have a 4-2-1 header and 2 1/4" exhaust if that is enough to effect jet size :cool: :cool: :cool:

I had dual SU's on the truck but pulled them off because of mixture issues and I really have NO experience with carbs. Everything I've had has been injected and turbocharged so this is all new to me. I am looking at a new Weber but all the sites say for a " L16 L18 L20" for the same part number. how is that possible? Surely a L20 at 5K RPM needs more fuel than an L16 at 5K. Is there something you can adjust for your specific engine and use the same jets for all 3 engines? I just picked up a stock intake manifold today at the Datsun Heritage museum show, also FINALLY found the front grill emblem and an electronic dizzy! Any other sources besides ebay for the carb? ( I already search craigslist every 1/2 hour) :D THANK YOU!!!

Hello I am considering a blow through turbo project on my 72 620 with a L20b, I have been turbocharging imports for awhile now ( a certain H badge that shall remain nameless) and NEED to turbo this truck. Most imports i've worked on can safely double their stock Hp ratings as long as it's properly tuned and intercooled, what's the deal with the L20? What breaks first? Is 200whp out of reach on a stock longblock? What about with some ARP studs? I currently have a large front mount intercooler, Garrett t3/t4 57 trim .48 turbine housing, and a few other parts, there will be NO muffler just open downpipe. appreciate the help!

update :poop:

Just found this http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/

one thing I just remembered is the previous owner installed a fairlady cam when he rebuilt it, it does lope a bit but I like it. Every car I've ever owned has been turbocharged whether factory or custom, this one will be too. I'm still researching the ancient art of blow through turbo. Seems like the carb must be prepped and sealed and fuel pressure must be 3 to 1 ratio with boost pressure. Does anybody know the breaking point of the factory rods/pistons? Will the L20 support 200whp stock if there is no detonation?:cool: